How can I increase my print speed?

Hello!

I am currently using the wades extruder "http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794" with the budha style hot end that I got from "http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=77"

The maximum print speed I can get is up to 30 mm/s, anything higher then that and the hotend jams. The filament starts to buckle between the hobbed bolt and the hotend or the hobbed bolt shreds the filament.

I am using 1.75mm ABS filament with 0.5mm nozzle. Temp is 230 - 240 degrees on the hot end.
Filament was bought on eBay, it was on the cheap side of filament...


What can I do to increase print speed? What is the absolute best hot end in the market right now? (if there is such a thing...)


Thank you so much in advance!

this in my opinion is the best hot end on the market right now, extremely reliable and he can make you whatever nozzle size you want. [www.vanguardinnovations.us]

30mm/s is extremely slow! I was able to go to 60mm/s with wade's extruder. Then I upgraded to a direct drive, and now I am printing at 120mm/s no problems. I sometimes go to 300mm/s infill.

Make sure you have the right temperature, put it a little higher if you go faster. Make sure you have enough pressure.

120mm/s with 300mm/s infill on what machine?

Direct drive means you're probably not on a delta, and there aren't any cartesian machines at the hobby level that can get anywhere near that...

cope413 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> 120mm/s with 300mm/s infill on what machine?
>
> Direct drive means you're probably not on a delta,
> and there aren't any cartesian machines at the
> hobby level that can get anywhere near that...


Incorrect, I do 120mm/s perimeters and 200mm/s infill regularly on my Solidoodle 3.

I have a spool of ABS which I bought from eBay (for it was cheap) and it's almost unused because I keep having problems with it. It either jamms the hot end or the extrusion line gets so thin (and sometimes disappears) during the print.

I wanted to try at a higher nozzle temperature, but it's already at 230C. If I set it anything higer than that, sometimes it goes over 235C, which is the saftey celing temperature in my setup, as a result of fluctuation and my printer shuts down. In other words, higher temperature isn't really an option.

After reading some notes here, I wonder if I would have a better luck if I reduce the speed - even at the same temperature, the filament will have more time to metl in the hot chamber. You know, it's the opposite case of having to increase the temperature a little bit when increaseing the printing speed.

I know it always sucks to decrese the print speed, but I would be happy to be able to use this whole spool of filament. I do a lot of overnight prints (= I start printing, watch the first couple of layers to make sure everyting is good, and then go to sleep), with which it doesn't make a whole lot of difference wheter it took an hour to print or three hours, since I would only able to check back 7-8 hours later anyway.

I was having a similar issue with poly carbonate, you need to support the filament all the way into the hot end, like a short Bowden tube if you will.

> I wanted to try at a higher nozzle temperature,
> but it's already at 230C. If I set it anything
> higer than that, sometimes it goes over 235C,
> which is the saftey celing temperature in my
> setup, as a result of fluctuation and my printer
> shuts down. In other words, higher temperature
> isn't really an option.

You can change your MAXTEMP in firmware. I put mine up to 245, but set to 238 or 240 in order to minimize overshoot. Hopefully wont destroy the PEEK.

Yamster Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I have a spool of ABS which I bought from eBay
> (for it was cheap) and it's almost unused because
> I keep having problems with it. It either jamms
> the hot end or the extrusion line gets so thin
> (and sometimes disappears) during the print.

Probably too cold

Yamster Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> I wanted to try at a higher nozzle temperature,
> but it's already at 230C. If I set it anything
> higer than that, sometimes it goes over 235C,
> which is the saftey celing temperature in my
> setup, as a result of fluctuation and my printer
> shuts down. In other words, higher temperature
> isn't really an option.
>
Are you sure you are printing at "230°C" ? It depends on the thermistor you are using. eBay ones tend to be really really bad.

Yamster Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> After reading some notes here, I wonder if I would
> have a better luck if I reduce the speed - even at
> the same temperature, the filament will have more
> time to metl in the hot chamber. You know, it's
> the opposite case of having to increase the
> temperature a little bit when increaseing the
> printing speed.
Yes you can reduce the speed. Like you said, it is all about the "melting time". People tend to turn the temperature higher when printing faster to compensate the reduced amount of time spent in the melting chamber

Yamster Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> I know it always sucks to decrese the print speed,
> but I would be happy to be able to use this whole
> spool of filament. I do a lot of overnight prints
> (= I start printing, watch the first couple of
> layers to make sure everyting is good, and then go
> to sleep), with which it doesn't make a whole lot
> of difference wheter it took an hour to print or
> three hours, since I would only able to check back
> 7-8 hours later anyway.

What printer/extruder are you using?

grumpenstein Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> > I wanted to try at a higher nozzle temperature,
> > but it's already at 230C. If I set it anything
> > higer than that, sometimes it goes over 235C,
> > which is the saftey celing temperature in my
> > setup, as a result of fluctuation and my
> printer
> > shuts down. In other words, higher temperature
> > isn't really an option.
>
> You can change your MAXTEMP in firmware. I put
> mine up to 245, but set to 238 or 240 in order to
> minimize overshoot. Hopefully wont destroy the
> PEEK.

Set your PID correctly and you'll never have over shoot...
Why are you still using PEEK? I don't understand why people still use that..it has melting temperature way too close to ABS's. Go get a full metal extruder.

greenman100 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> cope413 Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > 120mm/s with 300mm/s infill on what machine?
> >
> > Direct drive means you're probably not on a
> delta,
> > and there aren't any cartesian machines at the
> > hobby level that can get anywhere near that...
>
>
> Incorrect, I do 120mm/s perimeters and 200mm/s
> infill regularly on my Solidoodle 3.


What are your firmware accel settings?

How bad is your overshoot?

I've been wrong before, but if you have gotten good prints at that speed on your doodle 3, please post a video.