RadRacer builds a "BerryBot3D"

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NewKidOnTheBlock
garylucas: Are you actually trying to say that I need to know how to use 3D model software first before I can build a 3D printer and start printing stuff? That's like saying I need to know how to write code before I can put together a computer tower LOL.

Anyway, back to business.

Rad Racer: How did you determine the proper distance from the edge of the platen to the side of the aluminum profile you gave the control-arms attached to. Is there specific length for the CF rods or is the length ok as long as it reachs all sides of the platen?

garyhlucas is right about the importance of using 3d modeling software. Your analogy was incorrect. Putting together a computer tower is analogous to assembling a pre-designed 3d printer with all of the parts and an assembly manual. On the other hand designing a 3d printer from scratch is much more work. Like all CNC equipment, everything has to line up perfectly. Also, it is hard to determine the exact dimensions of every measurement if you don't have a 3d model that you can play around with. Mistakes are bound to happen.

I'll say you should take his advice and invest in some 3d modelling software. It will be useful for your future projects as well

Eric

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RP Iron Man

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NewKidOnTheBlock
garylucas: Are you actually trying to say that I need to know how to use 3D model software first before I can build a 3D printer and start printing stuff? That's like saying I need to know how to write code before I can put together a computer tower LOL.

Anyway, back to business.

Rad Racer: How did you determine the proper distance from the edge of the platen to the side of the aluminum profile you gave the control-arms attached to. Is there specific length for the CF rods or is the length ok as long as it reachs all sides of the platen?

garyhlucas is right about the importance of using 3d modeling software. Your analogy was incorrect. Putting together a computer tower is analogous to assembling a pre-designed 3d printer with all of the parts and an assembly manual. On the other hand designing a 3d printer from scratch is much more work. Like all CNC equipment, everything has to line up perfectly. Also, it is hard to determine the exact dimensions of every measurement if you don't have a 3d model that you can play around with. Mistakes are bound to happen.

I'll say you should take his advice and invest in some 3d modelling software. It will be useful for your future projects as well

Eric

I appreciate your honesty, Eric. I'm currently learning freecad and sketch. Any other good programs you would recommend I check out?

NKOTB,

For my rendition of Werner's machine I simply started with a 14" dia circle (platen), drew a triangle centered around the circle.....this determined the basic size for this machine. From there I downloaded the MakerSlide extrusion profile, measured up the MakerSlide wheels, looked up the Nema17 motor dimensions, etc... After adding all this information to the drawing, I rotated it around the center, and created the files needed to cut the base. The attachment shows the basic layout.

Although I won't argue the merits of 3D modeling this machine layout was done entirely in 2D. Sometimes I find it quicker to sketch in 2D (on paper and CAD) than spending time necessary to get all the components of my 3D model just right. Perhaps if I were better at 3D design I would feel differently.

Thanks for all the interest in my BerryBot knockoff, Werner has designed an excellent machine...it's certainly worth the effort to replicate.

Wayne

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NewKidOnTheBlock

I appreciate your honesty, Eric. I'm currently learning freecad and sketch. Any other good programs you would recommend I check out?

Open SCAD is a popular free CAD program, though I have never used it so I can't comment on how good it is. I actually use AutoDesk Inventor which (like Solidworks) is a very powerful, albeit expensive, 3d modelling software. Since this software is so expensive, you may want to stick with free alternatives.

However, I just saw Wayne's last post and apparently he just drew up some basic 2d drawings. I would definitely have used Autodesk Inventor to model the design in 3d first simply because I am proficient in CAD and I have access to high end CAD software. If you are not sure if you want to jump into 3d modeling just yet, you may want to follow Wayne's approach and just do a simple 2d drawing to make sure everything lines up.

Getting into 3D modelling will be an investment and you will have to get over the learning curve, but in the end it is an amazingly powerful tool to have in your arsenal It's totally up to you based on what your priorities are.

Eric

hello people
I wanted to share my project
if someone wants to use my 2D vector drawings
drawn with corel


this is my Delta
[www.buildlog.net]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2014 01:13PM by maralb.

It's a winter wonderland!

The mid-west has been getting pounded this winter, lots of cold and snow. We haven't seen this since the 80's....so much for that global warming theory For most the winter we have been just walking through the snow to get to the shop, after the snow yesterday it just got too deep so we gave the snow blower a bit of a workout.

Sure makes for a nice walking path.

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Rad Racer
It's a winter wonderland!

The mid-west has been getting pounded this winter, lots of cold and snow. We haven't seen this since the 80's....so much for that global warming theory For most the winter we have been just walking through the snow to get to the shop, after the snow yesterday it just got too deep so we gave the snow blower a bit of a workout.

Sure makes for a nice walking path.

Wow, that looks beautiful!

I live up in Toronto, Canada and we never get that much snow! Lol, your front path looks like the Grand Canyon

Eric

Wayne: Thanks for answering my question.

Eric: Not everyone has access to expensive software and knows how to 3D model, and despite all that great things are still made by those people. I'm not arguing that learning how to utilize software to assist in 3D modeling isn't a good thing, I'm simply stating that believing that you absolutely must know how to 3D model via software first before building something isn't necessarily correct; because that would be like saying that you can't build something correctly/properly if you don't know how to 3D model what you're aiming to build first.

MaralB: Thanks for sharing

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NewKidOnTheBlock
Wayne: Thanks for answering my question.

Eric: Not everyone has access to expensive software and knows how to 3D model, and despite all that great things are still made by those people. I'm not arguing that learning how to utilize software to assist in 3D modeling isn't a good thing, I'm simply stating that believing that you absolutely must know how to 3D model via software first before building something isn't necessarily correct; because that would be like saying that you can't build something correctly/properly if you don't know how to 3D model what you're aiming to build first.

MaralB: Thanks for sharing

I never said that "you absolutely must know how to 3D model via software first before building something" I was just trying to help you understand how beneficial it is. Yes, of course you do not need to use expensive 3d modeling software to build something, it just makes your life much easier and greatly reduces the probability of making mistakes. With parametric design software, you can tweak things very easily in the CAD design to get the perfect layout of all of your parts BEFORE you start building, which is very handy.

I was just trying to help you understand the merits of modeling your project in CAD. While it is not necessary, it is useful. Werner Berry models his stuff in Solidworks, while many other just use OpenSCAD, and others still just wing it! It's your choice

Eric

New,
Wayne is the perfect example of what I am saying. He did part of his machine design in 2d cad. Why didn't he do a lot more? Because beyond what he did is really very difficult in 2D when you start projecting lines from one view to the next. I know because I started on a drawing board in the 70s and went to 2d in the 80s and 3d in the 90s. Now Wayne has a really nice 3D printer, and can only print stuff he gets from someone else! So he will now be learning how to use a 3d program so his printer doesn't become a bookshelf.

3d is more expensive, but not so terribly so. Take a look at ViaCad or DesignCad, or an older version of Rhino 3d. There is a sealed copy of Rhino 3.0 for $200 on Ebay, still very workable, thats the version I have. Look at Cubify Design only outputs Stl but you are building a printer and you could upgrade later.

Eric & garyhlucas: I appreciate your emphasis on knowing how to utilize 3D modeling to make life easier when it comes to building something. Will keep you guys updated with the process of my build.

Why does one assume that because I prefer 2D for certain tasks that I have no 3D knowledge or 3D skill?

Damn it Rad, you're killing my argument here!

Sorry Gary.

Here's a couple of videos showing this printer in action.

[www.youtube.com]
[www.youtube.com]

Wayne: That is a sweet machine you got there. What's the highest resolution you are able to print with your berrybot?

Thanks....

Not sure, the quality with my currently setup (.4mm tip with a .15 layer height) is excellent. I do have a .25 tip....haven't used it yet.

To improve the FM signal strength in my shop I decided to build a new FM antenna instead of buying something ready made. With a bit of websurfing and I settled on a FM dipole.....it's simple to build and is said to work great. After viewing some build techniques employed by others.....I thought printing a plastic center y adapter might be a better approach

The attached photos show the widget.

Hi radracer,

I have been following Werners fantastic work and now yours, and as you two seem to have collaborated to some degree, perhaps you could answer some of the questions that I have.
Has Werner started an invitation only Google group yet, and is he anywhere near deciding his intentions on making stuff for sale to others in either a complete format, or by making the parts people feel they cannot make themselves, like say the end effector plate with it's dimples, or going open plan? i am happy either way, but waiting is a bit of a bugger!

Am I correct in saying that as long as the clone is rigid and dimensionally acurate and "plumb" then as long as suitable dimensions are chosen so nothing binds at full movement then the delta software merely (see how "merely" covers god knows how much work done by software minds the size of planets) has to have the correct dimensions of the machine in question fed into the program and then all should be well?

It is obvious that peeps have differing skills, and while I would prefer to make a Berrybot clone from old school dimensional drawings (Stop laughing)), I might allow myself to be dragged kicking and screaming into this century and get it made on our machines at work......My panic is in dealing with all the stuff you have not even mentioned....inputting the machines dimensions into the software and all of that stuff!!!!!

I am not sure of Werner's plans to release parts or machines.
I do know there was discussion about starting a users group.....but again I do not have any updates or details.

Many have said they are intimidated by the end effector bends and dumples. If you look at my buildlog photos you can see I did it with some basic tools (a brake, angle finder and a simple press) no problem.
All in all, the machine is quite easy to clone, there are no tricky dimensions or funky cuts. Granted a cnc router or mill makes life much easier but if you have access to the tools at work I would go for it and build the machine.

I had mine down at the Midwest RepRap Fest, folks seemed to like the machine.
There were a ton of comments about the print speed and over all print quality.

Wayne

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Rad Racer
I am not sure of Werner's plans to release parts or machines.
I do know there was discussion about starting a users group.....but again I do not have any updates or details.

Many have said they are intimidated by the end effector bends and dumples. If you look at my buildlog photos you can see I did it with some basic tools (a brake, angle finder and a simple press) no problem.
All in all, the machine is quite easy to clone, there are no tricky dimensions or funky cuts. Granted a cnc router or mill makes life much easier but if you have access to the tools at work I would go for it and build the machine.

I had mine down at the Midwest RepRap Fest, folks seemed to like the machine.
There were a ton of comments about the print speed and over all print quality.

Wayne

Yeah, i witnessed it first hand and it's a good looking well running machine... I am going to whip up a quick Rostock printed parts build with proper joints and CF rods and see if that satisfies my need to build a delta bot. If not I'm probably going to clone your clone.

Ok then,

If it is getting to the stage where peeps are thinking of cloning the clone (count me in) then what about a set of simple dimensions so we can have some kind of conformity.

Things like deciding on what extrusion to use, ball centre to ball centre rod length, PCD of slide extrusion centres, effector plate flat shape, bend angles on the effector ears etc etc the simple stuff to start us all off!!!!!

Even with set dimensions, peeps will still change things to suit their requirements or the materials to hand, but it is worth a try, and should help troubleshooting if the sizes are the same....

Hi Wayne....great thread! I have a question concerning the electronics and firmware package you used to run the machine prints. What are you using (board, components, wiring diagram, firmware)....and where did you buy them. I don't recall reading here or on Werners videos much at all about the control systems. I'd certainly like your input on this. Thanks...TP

The Berrybot has got balls, but why does it need magnets? It occurred to me that that you can hold the pushrods against the balls on all three axis by simply using a spring tensioner connected to a point at the center between the two balls at both ends. This would have two advantages, first you could get a lot more force than the magnets supply. Secondly you wouldn't need metal ends on the rods. Lubricate a ball, put some graphite filled epoxy in the end of the tube and stand it on the ball. there is your bearing. Notice also that the tolerance on the magnetic balls is +- 0.005" on diameter, pretty sloppy. A cheap ball bearing can be gotten at 0.0001" or better! You could also use a ceramic ball bearing that would be much lighter. Easy to get the tubes exactly the same length too. Just put sandpaper over a ball glued down and rotate the tube back an forth on it to shorten it in very small increments.

Hi Wayne.... Would you mind giving use the cut length of the MakeSlide Rails you used? I have the MakeSlide rails in this drawing scaled to 1450mm from the platen to the top plate. The rails come in 1000 and 1800mm lengths. Advice on the proper length here and for the parallel arms would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...TP

I used the full length 1000mm makerslide...no cutting.

The carbon rods where purchased here. I cut them into 3 equal parts....for a total length for ~10.8" ea
[goodwinds.com]

Radracer,

Nice build, very inspirational cnc router project.

Thanks for the info Wayne.

Here's a little about the electrical setup used in my BB clone.


Azteeg x3 w/Marlin firmware
To drive the motors I use a non-regulated 24vdc supply.
The electronics are powered by a 12vdc switching supply.

The system is turned on/off by a low voltage, self-latching, relay setup. This not only provides for an effective EMO (emergency off) implementation, it also prevents the system from coming up in some unknown state should you experience a power glitch. See attachment for details.

Wayne

Hello Radracer,

What type of material did you use underneath the insulating board on the platen? Notice Berry use stainless steel

Thanks

Hi.. I was thinking, it's there an electronic kit, that contains an the electronics that you would need for a delta printer as the berrybot?