What 3D printer design should I pick?

There are so many designs out there for 3D printers on reprap I need help picking:

My experience:
I am a Computer Engineer
Built tons of robots, and other things; but first try to build 3d printer (love to tinker)

I have access to a:
3D printer, laser cutter, wood working equipment and more

What I am looking for:
Solid design.
Rigid frame.
Normal size or large build area.
Price as cheap as I can make it but $300-$1000
Something that has some of the new technology. (Maybe a, auto leveling/ calibration, dual head, smart extruder)
I don't want a kit.



I was looking prusa i3 derivate but could not pick one, so I wanted to open the search up to all reprap designs.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/23/2015 02:02PM by mikes3ds.

Have you considered a delta, e.g. Kossel XL or Cherry Pi?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thank you I have taken a look at the Rostock Several variations (linear delta robot 3D printer).
What design of the delta type do you think is the best, take in mind I do not want a kit? (I looked at both the cherry-pi and the Kossel XL)

If you build a solid design/rigid frame you won't need auto-leveling.

Get some 8020 at your local scrap yard/metal recycler for the frame and while you're there keep your eyes open for linear motion components. The frame for my machine is all scrap 8020 type stuff (3 different makers/sizes, all about 1.5" square) and cost a total of about $80 ($2 per lb from the scrap yard). The pieces are all cut, milled square, and butt-jointed together with 5/16 x18 screws.

Here's what I did initially: [mark.rehorst.com]

And here's what it looks like rebuilt as of today:

A hair less than 1 cuft build volume, 470W heated aluminum tooling plate bed, NEMA-23 motors on all axes, DSP driver modules and 32V supplies on the X and Y axes, ball screw drive Y axis (though it may get changed back to belt drive), linear guides on X and Y axes, smoothieboard controller, electronics in a drawer below the build chamber, not yet mounted clear polycarbonate sides, top, bottom, and front panels, BullDog XL extruder and E3D v6 hot-end.



If I were starting all over I'd probably build a core XY machine with a bigger bed.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/23/2015 05:40PM by the_digital_dentist.

Very cool.My fablab has a mill and cnc; however, I have not been trained to use those machines. I would have to get some one else to cut those parts. I feel better going off a design for my first 3d printer.
Really cool 3D printer, you can tell by how something looks if it is a engineered well, and yours looks good!!!!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/23/2015 05:55PM by mikes3ds.

Quote
mikes3ds
Thank you I have taken a look at the Rostock Several variations (linear delta robot 3D printer).
What design of the delta type do you think is the best, take in mind I do not want a kit? (I looked at both the cherry-pi and the Kossel XL)

I'm not an expert on delta printer design, so I can't really advise you. I have a Mini Kossel that I am very happy with, and am in the process of enlarging. On the whole, I prefer it to my Cartesian printer, because of the simplicity of the build and the stability of the fixed bed. If you ask on the Delta printers sub-forum, I am sure you will get a lot more information and advice.

One thing I would advise is that if you do choose a delta design, don't use the ancient 8-bit Arduino/RAMPS electronics, use modern 32-bit electronics instead e.g. Duet or Smoothieboard.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Go with a delta.I am no pro but a lot of the research i have done points to them being slightly superior in print speed/quality.

Wish i had gone that route... Oh well my next one will be a delta.

For i3 derivatives I went with a P3Steel. Very solid printer. GOt mine done out of stainless 304