Who knows this "auto adjusting hotend"

Hey folks,

I was browsing Aliexpress for some cheap bowden push fittings when I stumbled upon this auto adjusting hotend. Besides the pictures there is no further description, To me it looks like a compact hotend with a build in pressure or force sensor similar to the FSR sensors some people use for automatic bed adjustment. My guess is that the hotend is suspended in the center of the heatsink with a spring so it can be used as a bed leveling probe (Nozzle tip touches bed and moves up => triggers pressure sensor) I really like the simplicity behind this approach, so I would really like to know If I am right with my assumption.

So, does anyone know or even use this hotend ?

Cheers,

Max

Interesting, seems like the fins would cool the hotend wonder how big the melt zone.

I've never used one but would love to try it on my i3, I'm very tempted to order one. I have a Kossel Mini with fsrs and an i3 with offset capacitative sensor and the difference in ease of use, accuracy etc... is significant, the kossel with effectively nozzle based probing just seems like a so much neater solution. I was thinking just the other day why not have a sensor in the hot end! This would certainly simplify and lighten my print head and give possibly better autolevelling information, now if only there were an 8 bit firmware for cartesian machines that used a full bed height grid to compensate for unevenness and level then I'd be very happy (I acknowledge in advance I'd get wonky parts but I can live with +/- 0.1mm wonkiness) .

Does anyone think the fins are to keep the sensor cool or is this a passive heartbreak?

I wonder if it's got a good sensor but the actual hot end is a bit of an afterthought. Also very keen to hear if anyone has tried it might save me $32+shipping
.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/13/2015 04:51PM by DjDemonD.

Reminds me of the heatsink on the new LED light bulbs

and the tripple header


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/13/2015 07:19PM by MechaBits.

I've ordered one of these so I'll see how it works in 4 weeks time or so. Just thinking though has anyone tried to design say an x carriage mount for an i3 for example with a lightly sprung hinge and a microswitch in it which would do the same thing but would not require a special hot end? This would achieve effectively a nozzle based probe working on bed contact, so no expensive sensors, no servos etc?

Quote
DjDemonD
Just thinking though has anyone tried to design say an x carriage mount for an i3 for example with a lightly sprung hinge and a microswitch in it which would do the same thing but would not require a special hot end? This would achieve effectively a nozzle based probe working on bed contact, so no expensive sensors, no servos etc?

CEL Robox uses a method something like that.
[www.youtube.com]

I might have a go at a hinged x carriage with switch/sensor.

I just got one of these, looks quite well made but doesn't seem to come apart, except the nozzle. There is a ptfe tube running all the way down and into the nozzle. It looks like it would thread onto an e3d throat and has a removable bowden coupler. It does appear the fins are some type of passive hot end cooler. I do not know how it senses nozzle contact it has wires for a heater, a thermistor and some type of 2 wire sensor cable coming out of it. The nozzle moves slightly within the unit presumably it's attached to an fsr as the sensor cable is of the same type of flexible plastic that fsrs are encased in. Though quite how it keeps the sensor cool I do not know.

I haven't tried it yet as I haven't a working printer to attach it to right now but I am intrigued. Assuming it's a decent hot end my concern would be that it can't be serviced easily. There must be a way to dismantle it but I don't want to risk breaking it before I've used it, assuming it's fsr based and they are quite delicate.

More later.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/27/2015 01:49PM by DjDemonD.

Its easy enough to make you metal hotend into a switch, the cherryPi uses this method I think. and even closing a contact with a metal bed can be done easy.

I doubt that the fins provide enough cooling on its own.