Welcome! Log In Create A New Profile

Advanced

pE3D

Posted by chriske 
pE3D
July 22, 2016 10:48AM
Hi,

Busy making my own hotends. I make them myself because I need about six heaters. If I want on all of these heaters a E3D hotend... about 50€ for one E3D...do the math.

My old peek nozzles will be used to be installed on my pE3D's, that's why the 'p'. So first thing I had to do is remove the FM8x1 thread on the peek's nozzle's and replace it with a standard M6 thread.
First test was made using a brass heatbreak, but that didn't work because of it's (to) high thermal conductivity. PLA filament got stuck in the hotend, ABS got through but rather slow.
Next test will be made using a stainless steel heatbreak.

First images show the heater with the brass heatbreak, cooler is also selfmade, other images show how the stainless steel heatbreak was made.
Needles to say, you need a lathe to do this.
Also posted this here with some more info on the procedure.

Chris
Attachments:
open | download - pE3D.JPG (52.8 KB)
open | download - heatbreak1.JPG (40.7 KB)
open | download - heatbreak3.JPG (44.8 KB)
open | download - heatbreak4.JPG (45.9 KB)
open | download - heatbreak5.JPG (51.4 KB)
open | download - heatbreak6.JPG (41.4 KB)
open | download - heatbreak7.JPG (44.4 KB)
open | download - heatbreak8.JPG (39.5 KB)
open | download - heatbreak9.JPG (44.1 KB)
Re: pE3D
July 24, 2016 10:05AM
Hi,

The stainless steel heatbreak did the trick, all works well.
Compared to a peek nozzle I have to raise the heater's temperature quit a bit.
To connect nozzle and heatbreak I use a T-nut. This time I turned the T-nut the other way around so the flat side is pointing downward, almost touching the nozzle. I would expect that flat side works as a barrier for the cold air coming from the fan.

Chris
Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.

Click here to login