RRD OrdBot Hadron build

Hey people,

Just thought I'd share the Hadron build I'm constructing at the moment.
I'm a prop maker for the Cosplay community and as such I tend to print rather huge things, my Solidoodle 2 could never keep up with the demand... So the Ord Bot was the logical conclusion.



After about 30 minutes of working out how things went together.


And after futzing around with the Z screws for about an hour trying to get them to go on equally.
I have a sneaking suspicion they may be slight bent, or perhaps the mounts are out of alignment.


I'll be using the Hall effect endstops - Mostly because I find the idea of using a physics principle that plays a part in the formation of stars far too cool!



I have noticed a few little dents in the Makerslide as well. Dunno if it's going to be a problem.
Does anyone know if it'd be worth contacting RRD about said dent?



Still waiting for the Helios heated bed to show up.
Oh and the Hotend will be a Prometheus that I helped crowd fund a little while back.

As for the Firmware for the RAMPS I've honestly got very little knowledge of how to code for it.
I've attempted but it's still very much a guessing game for me.

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E=M props and modelling
www.shapeways.com/shops/PTG
www.facebook.com/PrintedGalaxy
[www.thingiverse.com]

Quote
Serin
And after futzing around with the Z screws for about an hour trying to get them to go on equally.
I have a sneaking suspicion they may be slight bent, or perhaps the mounts are out of alignment.

First verify that the perimeter of the lead screw doesn't have a burr, if it does hone it off. To check to see if it's bent, roll it over a thick piece of glass, using a feeler gauge, and your eyes look for gaps, place a light behind it to help find gaps.


The crater that formed from the dent needs to be removed if the roller comes in contact with it. There are a few ways to handle it, here's one example. If it's shallow I would attempt to rub it out with a harden polished piece of flat stock, followed by light honing. Use Prussian blue dye to find the high spots,and focus the force over the dent area only. I think the aluminum has been anodized so you are going to remove the protective treatment, and this needs to be kept at a minimum. To minimize damage to surrounding features, apply masking tape on the surfaces near the dent. You could also cut a small hole in the tape and place it over the dent for protection.

A fine jewelers-mill bastard file could also be used.

If you're worried about being able to return it, ask the manufacturer for permission before remediation of the dent.

Prussian blue
[en.wikipedia.org]

Built my Ordbot Hadron 2 years ago,
lots of upgrades to mine
Hope your using:

[www.buildlog.net]

Marlin or Reprtier Firmware will work well on RAMPS

Run the delran nuts of Z-axis back and forth with a drill a bunch
to loosen it up (disconnected from printer)

Look at where belts rub against riders, and Y table,
space belt connector down to clear and prevent belt rub

I have used eight different hotends/extruders,
photo shows E3D v1 on SeeMeCNC EZstruder
There is fan cooler to cool print layer and
CPU cooler on extruder motor which gets hot on long prints.

Bed is glass with adjustment at each corner.
Glass with Elmers purple glue stick -- parts really stick

All electronics are below on a swing out board that swings out back

search thingaverse for Hadron upgrade parts.

See my posts on Ordbot buildlog,
ask any questions

Thanks for tips guys,

Yeah I did sign up at Buildlog, unfortunately it seems no one is monitoring the forums member-signup activation thing.

I think I've worked out why the Z axis is a bit weird, it seems the blocks(which are now metal not delrin) were tightened in a slightly offset position relative to each other.
One I've managed to unscrew, the other is slightly stuck it seems. Typical soft metal used in the screw makes it difficult to undo without buggering it.

As to the dent in the slide, it seems to be creating a slight grinding sound as the carriage travels over it so at this point I've just contacted RRD with the hopes of receiving a replacement part.

On the PSU, what the stuff does it mean if the positive and negative sparks when I touch the output terminals with my multimetre contacts? I'm assuming it means I've wired the wall power incorrectly.

Strike my last... Worked out where I went wrong with the psu.

You can use some Bondo on the dents and sand it out. I got my Hadron running this year. I added the Z axis wobble kit, and a servo for auto bed leveling. I use a Alex Geared Extruder an a Jhead-lite hotend. At the moment I only print with PLA, so just use two 8.5x11 picture frame glass stacked together for my bed. I also use the purple Elmer sticks.
I use a RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin.

Here's my Ord Hadron, just finished after many, many delays - none the fault of the machine.
Ramps 1.4 controller wuth LCD graphics. Extruder is the supplied QU-BD with modifications by bdring.
Cable management is a metal shower hose. I found this on the reprapdiscount forum and got the files from Thingiverse - madsen

The first print was a 20mm calibration cube which printed perfectly - but things went downhill from there . Hotend jams after about 4 or 5 minutes. I've also had no end of troubles trying to set the Z axis height correctly, it needs a much finer adjustment - which I'd print if I had a working 3d printer (off to the hackerspace this week!)
One other problem I had was with the Z axis steppers. No matter what I did, I couldn't get them to run smoothly. A suggestion from buildlog.net forum was to connect them in series instead of parallel - worked like a charm. Mirroring the Z axis to the spare extruder driver also worked.
I have a E3D V6 hotend which I bought for a planned delta build but might give it a try when I make a new extruder (hackerspace again). I've also ordered a J-Head hotend as all reports claim it as trouble free.