fastest professional quality 3D printers

Hi, we need to buy fastest professional quality 3D printers on the market with exceptional print quality !!! FULLY ASSEMBLED AND CALIBRATED.
Someone ho can develop a 3D printer with this caracteristic :

Able to print hollow objects even with huge overhangs in ABS with no warping.
Maximum Travel Speed (Limited By Build Area Not Mechanics) 1000+mm/s
Maximum Print Speed 500mm/s
Minimum Layer Height .05mm (50 micron) or Lower
Filament: 1.75mm ABS, PLA, Laywoo, Polycarbonate, Nylon, PEEK etc.
Max Sustained Temperature: 350c
Principal Print Abs, PEEK .. and others.
Small parts.5x5x5 cm

What you want doesn't really exist currently. You will see some printers claiming all the above. As a general rule, run from these companies.

Able to print hollow objects even with huge overhangs in ABS with no warping.
45 degrees is the limit for all machines unless you go to non-planar slicing which no one does or use support material. To prevent all warping, you need a heated build area.

Maximum Travel Speed (Limited By Build Area Not Mechanics) 1000+mm/s
Not many for sale with this spec but travel speed has a small effect on print time. Acceleration and jerk settings (which companies don't usually publish) have a much bigger effect on print time.

Maximum Print Speed 500mm/s
I have seen printing at 300mm/s under special circumstances. Any company that claims a speed over 150mm/s may think that they are telling you the truth but the acceleration or jerk settings may have them fooled. Most of the time prints consist of short moves interspersed with many direction changes. The machine never has a chance to get up to speed.

Minimum Layer Height .05mm (50 micron) or Lower
If the printer uses a screw for the Z then this will be true unless you get a non-open printer that won't let you pick your own layer heights. (Don't get a Makerbot.)

Filament: 1.75mm ABS, PLA, Laywoo, Polycarbonate, Nylon, PEEK etc.
Max Sustained Temperature: 350c
Principal Print Abs, PEEK .. and others.
You need a printer without a bowden tube (which will limit your acceleration and jerk values) with an all metal hotend if you want to be able to handle all of these materials without a lot of headache. PEEK is a problem but you will find plenty of printers to handle the rest. Printing PEEK will probably require a little DIY action on your part.

Small parts.5x5x5 cm
Any printer will all the above features will probably not waste the effort on something smaller than a 100x100x100mm build volume so you are good here.

I think your only option will be to commission a build if you want it all. A QuadRap with a modified E3Dv6 hotend in a heated chamber will get you close to this spec.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/28/2014 01:44PM by nicholas.seward.

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ConceptFORGE
Wally, GUS Simpson, LISA Simpson, THOR Simpson, Sextupteron, CoreXZ

Stratasys has a wide array of printers from $15000 - $750000


You didn't mention
1. budget
2. use

Your list is DESIGN, not requirements for your use / products.



Able to print hollow objects even with huge overhangs in ABS with no warping.

Is support material acceptable ( post print clean up)

Maximum Travel Speed (Limited By Build Area Not Mechanics) 1000+mm/s
Maximum Print Speed 500mm/s

Why should you care? ------ It is not manpower intensive--------- Unless you must have a part in minutes?

Minimum Layer Height .05mm (50 micron) or Lower

Why? You perhaps should spec part resolution?

Filament: 1.75mm ABS, PLA, Laywoo, Polycarbonate, Nylon, PEEK etc.

OK so you want FFF system ------- SLS?

Max Sustained Temperature: 350c

Why what should you care? if part comes out cool and system can make parts safely

Principal Print Abs, PEEK .. and others.

Small parts.5x5x5 cm

Are you Government? ------ Sounds like a government aquisition?

Quote
dursi
!!! FULLY ASSEMBLED AND CALIBRATED.

I shall remember you some simple forum etiquette: a bunch of exclamations, and a full caps lock sentence is very agressive. It sounds like you're shouting!

That aside, may I suggest you to contact some professionals such as Stratasys or local specialized firm. What you need is a customized printer, and you have to deal directly with a company. Here you'll have great advices, but it's in a very DIY aim. If you're not prepared to tune your printer, ask a profesionnal, like nicholas.seward said.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/29/2014 04:48AM by thib88.

Nick mentioned
I think your only option will be to commission a build if you want it all.
A QuadRap with a modified E3Dv6 hotend in a heated chamber will get you close to this spec.

Where does one purchase a QuadRap?
or
is it just a design?

[quadrap-3d-printer.blogspot.com] is not a store

Why is it a GOOD choice? for 5x5x5cm parts

Quote
cozmicray
Nick mentioned
I think your only option will be to commission a build if you want it all.
A QuadRap with a modified E3Dv6 hotend in a heated chamber will get you close to this spec.

Where does one purchase a QuadRap?
or
is it just a design?

[quadrap-3d-printer.blogspot.com] is not a store

Why is it a GOOD choice? for 5x5x5cm parts

QuadRap is actually a few designs (all good) and is not a product. You will have to find someone to build it. It is a good choice because it is fairly simple, fairly fast, and very scalable (up and down). It is not the only choice by far. I just mentioned a setup that I think would get as close the the OP's specs as possible so that the OP would have something they could talk over with a builder. Like I said, there is no printer on the market that has these specs so no matter what is purchased a builder will still have a lot of work to do making the fact that the QuadRap isn't a product unimportant.

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ConceptFORGE
Wally, GUS Simpson, LISA Simpson, THOR Simpson, Sextupteron, CoreXZ

Dear Nicholas, Thanks so much for your replay.. we dont know much about this type of printer, but we know what we need.
You have interest to make this for us. ? Can you do ? Please let me know. at PM. Thanks against.
We waitt your answer.

Dear thib88, I apologize for my disturb... sorry but I dont speak very well your language and the method of talk by posting... sorry against. and thanks for your help.

Thanks cozmicray, as I tell we donto know more to how can we make the printer... only we know which type of printer we need. we saw the Revolution XXL 3D Printer ... what you say about itl

I probably couldn't commit to a build like that. I have never made a heated chamber and I haven't had success printing at the speeds you are requiring.

As cozmicray mentioned, you listed design requirements instead of what you are actually wanting to achieve. What do plan on using this for? Can you justify why you need all of the specifications you listed. I personally feel that the best course of action would be to lower some of your expectations and then buy an existing machine.

For instance, you could spend ~$2200 on a Ultimaker or Lulzbot or ... that has some pretty good specs, good support, and is about as user friendly as 3D printers can get. OR You could pay someone $10,000+ for a one-off that doesn't have a track record, no guaranteed support, and not as user friendly.

If you can ditch PEEK, ditch the heated chamber, and accept slower speeds then you have options.

Have you considered SLS (power based printers) or SL (resin cured printers)? SLS in particular will let you ignore overhang restrictions and they all have a heated chamber so warping is never an issue. Some SLS machines can build faster than FFF printers. Some are even selling for less that $10,000. http://www.3ders.org/articles/20140826-sintratec-affordable-desktop-sls-printer-launching-this-autumn.html

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ConceptFORGE
Wally, GUS Simpson, LISA Simpson, THOR Simpson, Sextupteron, CoreXZ

@dursi: I have a Revolution XL and it is no where close to your specifications. The extruder has some issues. Some people have swapped them out for others extruders. Otherwise is a solid machine that is well engineered. (It can go 1000mm/s but that is meaningless because you can only do that if you move from one side of the platform to the other directly. Printing a part will never get to take advantage of that. They have printed some parts at 300mm/s [that is nominal speed not actual] but it isn't a setting you would use on just any part. 150mm/s seems to be the practical ceiling for all FFF machines. I have seen many people with printers that can move much faster happily printing at 100mm/s because quality is more important than speed.) It is not for someone that doesn't want to work on the machine occasionally. In fact, no 3D printers are good enough to require no tinkering. Some claim to be but for the most part those printers will turn into door stops if you are unwilling to work on the machine or send it back to the company for repairs.

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ConceptFORGE
Wally, GUS Simpson, LISA Simpson, THOR Simpson, Sextupteron, CoreXZ

Not knowing what Dursi will be using the 3D printer for, and budget, it is hard to make any recommendation.

"as I tell we donto know more to how can we make the printer... only we know which type of printer we need."

It is hard to help you when you don't say what you will be producing, but you KNOW which type printer you NEED.

? We may want to kill flies ----- we NEED a .50 caliber machine gun -----? Does that make sense?

I may suggest you look at the Hyrel system. HYREL System 30

[www.hyrel3d.com]

You could also look at Makerbot series

[store.makerbot.com]

Movement isn't a problem.
We can build a printer that does 500/1000, that's easy, we've run the Griffin Pro up at these speeds several times over the last few months and had some success at it, even with really high acceleration (delta FTW!). We probably have more time and experience at these speeds, at least with a delta style printer, than most anyone. That speed is easy for us.

The real problem lies in trying to extrude plastic that fast.
Something many fail to realize is that hot ends have a finite speed limit, most tot ends are actually only expected to run at about 100mm/s. Yes, you can force it into the hot end faster and faster, but at some point, that will no longer work. At some point it the hot end will either fail (we split a J-head down the side), or it will backflow out the top. With a .35mm J-head we regularly experienced internal pressures of over 200psi, but an engineer who did a quick inspection of the parts we broke says it may have been 400psi or more.

Then there is the all metal hot end...
While you would need an all metal hot end for this printer to use certain materials, all metal hot ends are fickle, weigh more, and are also not as fast. The fastest hot ends we have used have been J-Heads (not clones), we've tried many hot ends, including a few all metals and frankly, they stunk compared to the J-heads. Something else to consider is that you are putting an all metal hot end in a heated chamber... All metal hot ends have no insulated heat breaks and need a lot of cooling. You will probably have to look into water cooling because your internal air will be too warm to keep it cool. But that won't matter, because I doubt you will find an all metal hot end capable of running at the speeds requested, sufficiently cooled or not.


I agree with Nicholas.Seward, every printer needs some tinkering, but I disagree about the speed. I know many do run at those speeds, but to me, 100mm/s is too slow.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/01/2014 01:17AM by sheepdog43.

Dear Nicholas,

I Saw the Revolution 3D printer, and think that is our requeriment.. but... really print Peek ?
Our Company, Cyber-Dent is a pioneer Company in Argentina, with high production CAD/CAM dental restorations.
We are now thinking of digitalizing the other stages of the production process, with an intraoral digital scanner, for replace the plaster models for resin models, and perform temporary Hard and durable materials as temporary restorations.
At this time we are planning to increase our production capacity
We want to replace our plaster models for resin models, need about 40 models per day, with high accuracy resolution, aprox. 20- 40 microns on Z and similar on XY.
Resin models are capable of being used in the laboratory for replacing plaster models.
size of the production base.
You understand now our requeriment and purpose to have a good printer.?

Our Company, Cyber-Dent is a pioneer Company in Argentina, with high production CAD/CAM dental restorations.
We are now thinking of digitalizing the other stages of the production process, with an intraoral digital scanner, for replace the plaster models for resin models, and perform temporary Hard and durable materials as temporary restorations.
At this time we are planning to increase our production capacity
We want to replace our plaster models for resin models, need about 40 models per day, with high accuracy resolution, aprox. 20- 40 microns on Z and similar on XY.
Resin models are capable of being used in the laboratory for replacing plaster models.
size of the production base.
You understand now our requeriment and purpose to have a good printer.?

Nicholas,

well, I think it would be best to sacrifice speed for quality. agree, how long you think it may take to print a piece of 5x5x5 cm. ? that's the extent of the models we need to do, and in such quantities as I have explained in another post.

Dear Dursi:
A cube with 55% of infill at 50 mm/ seg takes 2 hours and 40 minutes with 0.33 mm layers height. So far of your requeriments.
You need a piece in 10 minutes. I think you need another method to do it.
I sent you a PM, explaining some things about this isue. Please read it.
I will wait for your response. Thanks

It sounds like a SLS machine will best suit your needs. You can nest many parts into the build volume and get pretty good rates of production.

I suspect that the surface quality of a FFF print won't satisfy you. Even if you can hit the accuracy/precision goals you listed above with a perfectly rigid machine and a perfect hot end you will have inconsistencies in the filament diameter. Bottomline the surface with always require post processing if you want smooth molds. SLS parts can be used immediately.

What is you budget?

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ConceptFORGE
Wally, GUS Simpson, LISA Simpson, THOR Simpson, Sextupteron, CoreXZ

The problem is.. what type of 3D printer can print Peek ? we need for our purpose to print Peek, we are now making this proces by CAD/CAM with a 5 axis mil. but the cost is to high.
We need to make smal pieces like 2x0,5x05 cm. for one side with Peek, and in other side stunt with 5x5x5 cm. in ABS or other material that could give us accuracy for work in it..
Less 10.000. -

Just because 3d printers exist, it doesn't necessarily make them practical or right for every job.

Quote
dursi
The problem is.. what type of 3D printer can print Peek ? we need for our purpose to print Peek, we are now making this proces by CAD/CAM with a 5 axis mil. but the cost is to high.
We need to make smal pieces like 2x0,5x05 cm. for one side with Peek, and in other side stunt with 5x5x5 cm. in ABS or other material that could give us accuracy for work in it..
Less 10.000. -

What kind of surface quality do you require? I suspect that FFF parts will not be good enough for you. The 5 axis mill may be the best choice. $10,000 won't get you a good SLS machine and it probably won't get you a custom made machine that can do what you want even if you built it yourself. Sorry for the bad news.

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ConceptFORGE
Wally, GUS Simpson, LISA Simpson, THOR Simpson, Sextupteron, CoreXZ

I look the Hyrel 3D, is a good printer. you think that this is the machine that we need ?
thanks.

@dursi: What surface quality do you need? A machine may have positional accuracy of 20 microns but the surface won't have that accuracy. You will see ridges for every layer. I am guessing that no 3D printer will do what you need unless you get one with an incredibly small nozzle and a very very small layer height but then it will take forever to make each part. You would probably need 40 $2000 printers to hit your throughput goals.


This is a good representation of an average print. You can do better than this but it will require work on your part. Is this good enough for your project?

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ConceptFORGE
Wally, GUS Simpson, LISA Simpson, THOR Simpson, Sextupteron, CoreXZ

I understand that what we need is imposible .. at this moment... then .. go for Little pieces. I atached some pictures for your reference. they are small cups with 0,5 mm. of thikness. and you see the surface quality.

My suggestion based on those pieces would be to get the cheapest SLS printer you can find. It will be slow but you could print many items at the same time. You also will be limited to materials you can get nice powder for and possibly only the material that the printer supports if it is a more commercial printer. Nylon is the standard material. I am not aware of any reason you couldn't print PEEK this way but I have never tried to source PEEK powder and have also never used a SLS machine. (I linked some cheap SLS machines above.)

Note: FFF machines could hit that quality but you will be spending a lot of time pre and post processing the prints. (Not to mention all the failed prints.) The freedom from support structures that you get with SLS will save you tons of time.

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ConceptFORGE
Wally, GUS Simpson, LISA Simpson, THOR Simpson, Sextupteron, CoreXZ

... this is the surface quality when finishing with ball-nose bits:

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Viktor
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Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]

Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]

... and here some tooth-crowns made from zirconium oxide:

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Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]

Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]

Yes of course, this is a very good surface of tooth-crowns made from zirconium oxide, we make it.
when we started milling, we soon this termination. Of course it's the best ... but eventually discovered that by making some changes in the style of milling and tools cutters ... we the termination. Cause.? o So that ... that way the material to be above the cap adheres better, has no risk of landslides, either ceramic or light-curing resins. No change or termination cervical closure, where the maximum adjustment is needed. But we machined to 0.4 mm. with excellent quality. And when we mil, our milling time was 10/15 'per unit , but now with our changes ... we mill a coping in 6'. you see through the day ... time is money
.thanks for your pictures.