Effects of temp on ABS?

As a side note, clear coat is not a suitable material for printing on, at best it gave minimal warpage, but under all conditions it was messed up as much as any adhesive would be. Unsuitable/unreasonable.
Edit: Loctite Adhesive, although strong in proper use, post cure, not only stinks to high fluffy clouds, but does not work initially, the first layer moves around a bit, making for rounded corners and late start lines; unusable.
Edit2: 3DXTech's filament is amazing. It is as top of the line as they claim. I've gotten ABS and ABS/PA alloy from them and both print as clean as I've ever seen, I just wish my printer was good enough to show it off. I'll definitely be buying all of my basic filament from them, at least until they grab other specialties like wood, glow in the dark, etc.

What does temp changes do to ABS? If I lower the temp, what should I expect? Raise? Which one offers better bridging? Less warping? I would assume lower temps make for less warping? What about layer bonding, do I want to go as high as I reasonably, within material useability, can? Fans are used for PLA, what does it do for ABS? Feed me your knowledge, oh great, wise ones.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 07/18/2014 09:43PM by MrDoctorDIV.

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Realizer- One who realizes dreams by making them a reality either by possibility or by completion. Also creating or renewing hopes of dreams.
"keep in mind, even the best printer can not print with the best filament if the user is the problem." -Ohmarinus

The only one I know for sure is that low temp negatively affects layer adhesion. If you want good layer adhesion (strength) then you need to print as hot as you can without distorting the print. If you print too hot the end product will be strong but ugly and blobby all over.

I actually covered my printer in some clear plastic to make a sort of 'heat chamber'/draft shield, and it seems to help immensely with layer adhesion and preventing warp with my ABS. It works best for me if you put your heated bed to 110 C and try to keep the part the same temp all the way through, I've noticed if one side of the print is a much different temp than the other, the ABS tends to start warping. 110 C and 'thermal equilibrium' is what I usually aim for.
I've done bridging with and without a fan for ABS, and as long as I keep the bridging speed low, (around 10mm/sec for me), I don't have many problems with either setup. I don't currently have any fans blowing on my ABS, but I do use one for PLA. I've used a fan for ABS before, and it seemed to cause more warping, but that may be because it didn't have a duct and just blew all over the printed part and bed.
For adhesion, I use hairspray, it seems to work well, but I think that having a level bed and a properly calibrated Z end stop is extremely important for adhesion as well.

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Thingiverse Profile

When I started having warping issues with larger parts, I did a combination of things. Not sure if any one solved the problem, or the combination of the three, but it works. These were mostly suggested by RPIronMan in another thread here.

1) Switched from hairspray to Elmers purple gluestick. Hairspray worked well for the first couple months of printing, but when I tried to print my first somewhat large part, I had warping issues.

2) Changed the bed temperature from 115 first layer, and 110 subsequent layers to 115 first layer, 85 subsequent layers. Yes, that's right, cool it down after the first layer.

3) Aim 2 100W incandescent bulbs at the build plate during printing. This as opposed to covering the printer with something. The two bulbs keep the build area around 90-100 degrees F. I have an infared heat lamp at the ready if needed as well, but so far have not needed to use it.