ABS Print Temps

So I printed this on my FolgerTech 2020 Prusa i3 to find what temp is best for ABS with the filament I have, and well... I'm stumped.
I started at 225C, and began working my way down to 195C. Beyond the overhang getting gradually better the colder I got, nothing else changed. Each stage had a very minimal curl at the corners, but beyond that and the overhangs, I can see no visual difference from the varied temp range. Every stage is strong, I can't break any part of it easily, so structurally, it seems fine.

Isn't 195C kinda low for ABS?
Should I try going lower?
I print PLA wonderfully at 185C
Input would be appreciated
I can post pictures of my print if needs be.
Thanks!

230 plus for ABS. What you printed from Thingiverse is for PLA. I normally print at 235 with no fan(like PLA) and heat bed at 100 to 110. Settings depend on the filament also.

I used the STL, not the GCODE, so it was for ABS when I printed it.
Either way, I had no issues whatsoever printing at 200C
Thing is, the source I got it from (FoxSmart) claims that their ABS works best at a higher temp.
However, when printing at 235C, I get extreme amounts of warping and curling...
My heatbed runs at 110C
and I have no cooling fan installed yet (For the filament. I have one for the heatsink)

If you used the stl then you missed the whole point of that particular object. The person that created it modified the gcode for different temps on each level to see the difference.

That being said 200c is quite low for ABS, both of my printers will extrude at 200 but any prints can be pulled apart as layer adhesion is extremely low. I use to print at 235c to 240c but I have an all metal hotend now and I print ABS at 245-250c and I get much stronger prints.

Warping and adhesion need to be handled with a heated build chamber so the part stays warm while printing. And do not use a material fan at all for ABS but it's needed for PLA.

I manually changed the temp by watching the Print, and when it would get to the notch, I would turn down the temp by 5C.
The print is strong, and I cannot pull part the layers (I broke it, and it broke off in a chunk, not along the layer line)
I don't have a fan, so I didn't use it for PLA either (Though I still got some pretty decent prints. Overhangs and bridging wasn’t the best though...)
I have a chamber (However, I built it recently. I haven't had any large prints on it, though am currently running one now. Will update on how it turns out. Is printing at 210C), though I don't have anything controlling the temp inside of it. The heat bed naturally heats the interior.

I print ABS between 240°C and 250°, depending on the spool.

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[www.bonkers.de]
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You can't trust the thermistor reading to tell you the actual temperature. Printer kit makers use whatever thermistor they can buy cheapest every time they order parts. You have to print at whatever temperature the stuff wants, regardless of the setting in the printer. If it prints fine when your machine says it is 50C, then use that setting.

One of the problems with using gcode generated for another machine- if everything isn't identical, you'll be lucky to get a decent print.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/18/2015 08:09AM by the_digital_dentist.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

I often do temp test before as well but I realized that time temp calibration are somewhat useless and it depends on the objects

195'c is quite low for abs but then again I saw one filament brand, haruta 3d, their filaments for abs and pla has a low melting point, do check their brand. I almost get their abs before but too fishy because their abs temp range are maxed at 230'c from datasheet. I got acquaintance tried haruta 3d filament he said it was great but I don't know the strength of the brand and actual finished product.

I used createc abs filament (currently running out), had troubles printing my x motor mount part kept having delamination, printed at 240'c and 250'c, both got me delamination and 240'c was the worst, so I tried cranking up to 260'c and the results earlier were great, no delamination and surface (I think) didn't really misaligned (quite the smooth finish like well calibrated high rigidity printer).

In overall, what I'm saying, printing a vase mode that has long print time or large object/complexity, use higher temp, just check your hot end design

As of the overhangs, a complete vertical overhangs are good on my end but didn't do well with the octopus v3 phone stand where the overhangs are around 10-20', I printed mine at around 240'c and curling occurs on the almost 0' overhang there in the front side, probably with a fan would help, but I ran out of filament already

I recently built an unpowered build chamber and the first couple of prints, x motor and x end came out with little to no warping and no delamination, while before it delaminated quite badly. The new parts also feel much stronger and doesn't give cracking noises when cooling or when flexing the material like snap fitting a bearing in.
The heated bed heated the chamber. The chamber started off at about 27°C and got up to 37°C in 1 hour and 15 minutes. It's made out of click together cupboard set, metal square wire frames paneled with plastic foil, a quick and dirty hack. I'm planning on insulating it with floor insulation material to reach higher temps.
My print temp is 268°C, layer adhesion is better at that temp. I use real dutch abs brand, seems to print well.

Some low temperature abs has pla mixed into it. I could smell pla mixed with abs fumes. It was more stringy and clogged up often in the nozle, seems like the pla burned up and lost its plasticity.

I fortunately haven't had any clogging issues whatsoever...
However, I am still using the stock hotend that came with my folgertech, which has a PTFE liner... No money to spend on an E3D (Oh how I would love two of them... Or even one for now...)
I also need to install a fan for it...