Beware Anti Vibration - slic3r

When I first started using Slic3r I found some infills really shook my M90 carriages. I set Printer->General->Advanced->Anti Vibration to 20Hz and promptly forgot about it.

Recent experiments with vase mode showed problems with "acne" spots and strange diagonal lines; they're detailed here [forums.reprap.org].

I later realised the same thing was occurring with non-vase prints. The solution was to set Anti Vibration back to 0.

As the problem Slic3r code (in GCode.pm) is tagged [hydraraptor.blogspot.it] I just thought I'd raise the matter here as well.

Side note: I was experimenting with FPE from Plasic2Print. It really produces excellent single perimeter prints which are both highly flexible and impossible to delaminate by hand. It also sticks well to 100C glass bed and picks off easily when cool.

Yes the author of slic3r always refuses to implement things properly. Adding pauses is not the same as slowing down!

I find setting acceleration to 2000 seems to keep vibration reasonable at 50mm/s.

What plastic is FPE? I can't find it on Wikipedia.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

Yes the author of slic3r always refuses to implement things properly.
Harsh, innit tho'.
Adding pauses is not the same as slowing down!
Especially if there's no retract.
Must say though that Slic3r is extremely fast and, having calibrated all my filaments now, I get very good results generally.
One thing it can't cope with yet is small areas at the top of a pyramid say. No amount of fan, slowing down or speeding up stops a gooey mess with nylon especially. There's no equivalent of SF Orbit (so I fudge the code with some awk script if necessary.)

I find setting acceleration to 2000 seems to keep vibration reasonable at 50mm/s.
OK, I shall try that in my next set of experiments: establishing maximum print speeds.
Currently, at 20-40 mm/s things go well. At 60mm/s vases are excellent but non-vase fills and corners start fouling up. (I tried working out what was going wrong with extrusion rates etc. but my brain got tired trying to decide which parameters to tweak.)

FPE Flexible Polyester: Here's the link [www.plastic2print.com]. I've asked plastic2print for some more detailed specs on this stuff as I'd like to print some gaskets with it but have no idea what its resistance to oils and fuels is. (Ghastly, I imagine.)

You can see the discussion I had with him here where I tried to persuade him to implement it the way I do and even suggested his method would leave blobs.

Ah, I think FPE is a made up TLA by plastic2print. PE is polyethylene, polyester is PET so it should be something like F-PET but even that gets no hits.

You can also print with polyurethane, which is also flexible and rubber like.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

Thank you!
Setting the Anti Vibration to 0. (Was at 20) and acceleration to 2000 really cleaned up my prints!
Previously my prints have had these small bumps and other artifacts Picture
But now i just had a 4 hour print with zero bumps or other artifacts. Comparing the new print to an old one, it also seems layer stacking improved. But that might be for other reasons.

@nophead
...even suggested his method would leave blobs.
ah! I can see cause for frustration there!

@olegodo
it also seems layer stacking improved
That's just what I thought but I can't see why it should make any difference in Z.
Maybe it's just a subjective reaction to getting rid of the bumps!