To oil or not to oil?

I've printed about a kg of filament now and have never oiled any part of the printer - no worrying noises to report so far, but increasingly feeling like I ought to be doing something on the preventative maintenance front! - should I oil, and if so what bits, what with and how often? All input, however controversial, gratefully received

I would guess the only parts are the round slide rods, just a little light oil once in a while.
The bearings do not work that hard so I feel they should go for a long time.

Also look for signs of rubbing or wear and tear etc.

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

You should definitely oil the threaded rod with light machine oil.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Like a 3-in-1 or similar?

Yes. Not wd40 because that leaves a residue.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Yes that should do it

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

I had problems with my original 5mm Z-axis nut (lots of swarf and then it started to sieze up), I replaced it with a long nut (it's 20-25mm long), and used a WD40 PEN to dab it on the Z-axis lead screw, and all the rods... That was weeks ago, and I've done a lot of printing since then...With no problems.
I will dab some more WD40 on later today for good measure. If you've only got a spray can of WD40 then I'd suggest you spray it out side in to a platic cap, then use a paint brush to dab some on the thread and rods. I wouldnt spray anything on the printer, as you'll be weeks cleaning it up...

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

Another good thought Kim, thanks....BTW, I'm printing out your revised fan duct even as I type - kudos, looks great - really hoping it'll sort out a few curling issues I'm having on overhangs...

Wd40 is not good on rails etc, when it dries it leaves a waxy horrible residue behind, not good stuff.

I use a long brass nut on my z screw too, 3-in-1 on it and it's working very nicely.

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Hi MrCrispi, hope you enjoy using the Fan-Duct. Just make sure you seal around the Heat Sink to stop the air blowing out.
I used 5 min apoxy, but UHU, or Silicon will do. The revised bit is the adapter plate, which allows you to use the Modified X-Motor mount if you move the I.R.Probe.

I now have one of DC42s No.2 kits here that I'll be making an adapter plate for.

Kim..

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

I'm using WAHL Clipper Oil (Boots the Chemists £4), thin clear and no residue, intended for hair clipper lubrication and thinner than 3-in-1. Just don't drip it on the bed or you'll be cleaning for ever! The rails, both bearings that bear on the Z upright and the X-carriage back bearing seem to be the essentail points. I'm avoiding the filament feeder as one drop on the filament would be really nasty.

Steve.

Singer sewing machiine oil is also quite a good choice for this type of job.

Clipper and machine oil are very similar, both fine light oils, clipper oil might be food grade but that's irrelevant here, both good choices though.

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.