Bowden Tube Clip broken at Extruder- Wheres the STL file?

Getting very frustrated with this printer - I trust that I have brought one thats been printed by someone else and not reprap - Trying to go through and replace parts as we speak - Trying to print the lower Z mount, only to find I come back half way through (4 hours in) to find bowden tube out of the extruder due to extruder clip broken, and now I cant find the STL file for this in the files I downloaded from GitHub... Can anyone help? Has this happened to anyone previously? - Really urgently need this resolving as urgently need to get a new lower z axis mount (More splits have occurred!).

Seriously beginning to question the capabilities of the Ormerod!

Thanks

This is for Ormerod 1 but guess its the same (attached)

Erik

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tig124
..Has this happened to anyone previously?

Not broken Clip but the bowden tube got unscrewed, the cause was the brass bit was able to turn in the extruder even with the clip in place, must have been more filament pushed in the +X direction (brass bit did not turn under pressure) than in the -X direction (brass bit able to turn)

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- Really urgently need this resolving as urgently need to get a new lower z axis mount (More splits have occurred!).

Do the split start in the countersunk holes? - if so I would recommend zombiepantlol's mod with cylinder head screws

[forums.reprap.org]

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Seriously beginning to question the capabilities of the Ormerod!

Sell it to me then, I only have two :-)

Erik

I had a similar problem with my build. I didn't order the brass union at all, and had to improvise a way to keep the tube held in. See my thread here: [forums.reprap.org]. All you need is an extra M4 nut.

I only had the problem that the tongue freed itself. Now i am using pneumatic fittings.

@Erik Only two like me? I thought you would own more Ormerods.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

My brass bit is now under arrest :-)



Erik

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Treito
@Erik Only two like me? I thought you would own more Ormerods.

Nah - I will never catch up with Ormerod187/Dario anyway.. :-)

Erik

Who will ever be able to do this?

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

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ormerod168

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tig124
..Has this happened to anyone previously?

Not broken Clip but the bowden tube got unscrewed, the cause was the brass bit was able to turn in the extruder even with the clip in place, must have been more filament pushed in the +X direction (brass bit did not turn under pressure) than in the -X direction (brass bit able to turn)


[attachment 69005 bowden_cable_fail.JPG]

I have had this happen. Fixed it by putting a bit of wood or PVA glue upon the outside threads on the bowden tube.
Even better use Loctite upon the threads and ensure that the tube is done up tight.

Thank all... I found an improved toungue that stops the bowden tube from moving soo much. And yes the split on the lower Z mount is where the counter sunk screws are - Can totally see why as well now.

Have considered replacing the lower Z mount with a machined plastic part to provide more strength.

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tig124
Have considered replacing the lower Z mount with a machined plastic part to provide more strength.

..or you could bolt the extrusions together, then the Z lower mount only have to hold the smooth rod




Erik

Hello Eric,

Thanks for the input - Think I will go down that line, although will still need to print out a lower Z mount - which I have been doing again... and now this time approx 4 hours through again, the x axis decided to jump, therefore print ruined and now I have to start at the beginning again tomorrow (Although now the lifting has been reduced to one small corner - which I suspect eventually caused the x axis jump!)

How frustrating!... Once I get the Z axis lower mount printed out, I am going to fit this as well as tidy up the electrically connections!

This has got me looking at a different printer - maybe H bridge style.

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ormerod168

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tig124
Have considered replacing the lower Z mount with a machined plastic part to provide more strength.

..or you could bolt the extrusions together, then the Z lower mount only have to hold the smooth rod

[attachment 69049 y-z-extrusion-fusion.JPG]
[attachment 69050 ormerod_downunder.JPG]

Erik

What a fascinating looking Ormerod! You've done an excellent job keeping your printer rigid on the Y axis @ormerod168. What materials did you use for the Y-ends, and what is the stuff at the bottom of the printer... looks like 5mm aluminium and maybe some steel along the bottom? It looks like the old acrylic is still in there holding the rods... did you have to modify the Y-idler and Y-motor mount to get the extra metal in there?

Can you print upside down?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2016 05:47PM by 0x0000.

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0x0000
...What materials did you use for the Y-ends..

Aluminium, 200x35x8mm

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...and what is the stuff at the bottom of the printer... looks like 5mm aluminium and maybe some steel along the bottom?

The stuff at the bottom is a tray for the bed heater cable, or actually the lid from a industrial cable tray, the aluminium you spotted is holding the tray in both ends

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It looks like the old acrylic is still in there holding the rods...

Yes the aluminium end parts supports and secure the original acrylic end parts, nothing wrong with those parts, they just need a bit of support..and I did not want to stray away to much from the original design that I think is brilliant

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did you have to modify the Y-idler and Y-motor mount to get the extra metal in there?

I made the y-motor mount in aluminium for strength and printed the original y-idler (turned over) with a z-offset to get rid of the support against the y-extrusion that i now do not need with the stronger endparts, design is not my thing yet so I just printed it solid (no holes) and milled out clearance for the belt and drilled holes for the screws




More details here:
[forums.reprap.org]
[forums.reprap.org]

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Can you print upside down?

From your point of view I always do :-)) (NZ right?)

Erik