Ormerod 2 Commissioning Hot end temp question

It has been busy at home and I finally got to move forward with my printer. I'm still running thru the commissioning and I'm at the step where I'm powered up and have Pronterface running. I set the temp to 100 and the hot end starts to heat but only gets to 90f and 32c then I send the temp command for 200 and it gets up to 116f or 46c. Also where on the hot end should I measure? the brass nozzle reads 46c but the mounting block near the heater reads 66c.
I have and a V0.6 duet board and it has 1k resistors. I checked them to make sure and they are marked 01b.
So is this normal on the first heat test and it needs adjustment or is something wrong?

***EDIT****
I just tested the bed heater, only set it for 45c and I measured 42c so it is not too far off.
Just FYI I'm usinga infrared thermometer that has a range of -50c to 380c

***EDIT 2****
Just found that the stepper motor that drives the print head arm up and down is bad. I removed the rod and gear and when you give that motor a command if vibrates and tries to turn but mostly bounces back and forth. Anybody have a good quick source for these motors? Or am I wrong and it is not bad?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2016 11:56AM by brlowe.

How did you determine that the motor is bad? The description you've given sounds like it could be a poor wiring connection, or miswired (either on the Duet or the looms). The green wire on my Z comes out occasionally and makes a sound very similar to what you've described.

I checked it by first removing the gear drive to make sure it was not a problem with too much load on it. Still failed.
I then swapped connectors on the board with another motor and that motor still worked fine and the bad motor still failed.
I have now hooked the cable up with an metter and cannot find any faults with the cable harness.

***EDIT***
So I swapped out the cable and the problem followed the cable so not a motor problem. I guess I need to fix the cable,
I did find out the gears that drive the arm up and down do bind like I was worried about so going to see if I can get a couple of new ones printed locally.
Too bad the Replikeo 3d parts are such low quality.

***EDIT*** the cable connector pins were in the wrong place. I fixed it and now it is good.***

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2016 06:06PM by brlowe.

Does anyone have any answers about my hot end temp readings?

I do not understand your readings are you talking about 90F and 32°C? or what does 90f and 32c mean?

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Check the wiring at the screw terminals. Are they crimped with ferrules to secure them? If you have bare wires going in, your power is being wasted as heatvat that poor connection. Post pics if you can.

If your connection is solid, I'd suggest that your power supply is not powerful enough.

@Treito, it's Fahrenheit vs Celsius temperatures

You cannot measure nozzle temperature using an IR thermometer because the target area is much too small. If you want to check the nozzle temperature, use a thermocouple probe inserted in the hot end.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Have you set the 1K resistor value in the config.g file with M305?
Do the temperature readings show room temperature?

Degrees C or F whatever you comfortable with but 60F is 15C. Not a good bed temp for PLA when in the UK

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Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

I was confused as we write °C :p Meanwhile I got it but to be sure I reasked if I am correct.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

I was not sure how to make the °C. I have now just copied yours so I can use that.
The bed gets close to the temp I command it to be so I think it is fine.
The wires for the bed heater are crimped or soldered in solid posts and those are secured but the bed heater is working fine.

@dc42 - wouldn't the block that the nozzle is fitted in that the heating element is also sitting in get hot enough to measure temp on? Also should anything be put on that heating element to help transfer the heat when it is inserted in the block as it is a loose fit.

Room temp measurement looks to be correct.

The block itself is too small for a standard IR-thermometer. Do you use a Replikeo kit? In that case the config.g has to be changed.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

I am using a Replikeo kit. What change did I miss in the config.g file that I need to make?

Quote
Treito
The block itself is too small for a standard IR-thermometer. Do you use a Replikeo kit? In that case the config.g has to be changed.

Sorry duplicate post

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/09/2016 12:18PM by brlowe.

i think he means:

if you have in the config.g:

M305 P0 R4700 H0 L0					; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
M305 P1 R4700 H0 L0  					; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the first nozzle thermistor ADC correction
M305 P2 R4700 H0 L0					; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the second nozzle thermistor ADC correction

change to:

M305 P0 R1000 H0 L0					; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
M305 P1 R1000 H0 L0  					; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the first nozzle thermistor ADC correction
M305 P2 R1000 H0 L0					; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the second nozzle thermistor ADC correction

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/09/2016 01:02PM by Darathy.

No, the Replikeo kit may use another type of thermistor. They sells one with a different B-value. Nevertheless the R-value has to be 1000 at the M305 command and maybe you will have to add the parameter B3500.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Of coarse I cannot access the Replikeo documentation for Commissioning or calibration. Al the other stuff I can access. I have been using the RepRapPro docs. Does anyone have a copy of the Replikeo documentation? I want to see if they have any info in there docs about setting these values.

Not only is the block too small for most IR thermometers, but it is also shiny aluminium which has low IR emissivity and thus under-reads a lot unless you apply a large correction factor. As DC42 has said, the best way to measure hotend temperature is to use a thermocouple thermometer. Remove the Bowden tube from the extruder, thread the thermocouple down the tube until it bottoms-out in the nozzle and you will get a 100% accurate reading of the nozzle temperature.

Dave

Have to love Replikeo. I contacted them about their documentation being down and they told me to use the RepRapPro docs. Of coarse they are not a perfect match because they are 2 different versions of the Duet board and the printers are just slightly different versions also. Be nice if they would just fix their docs on their wiki.

Can you access their wiki using the Google cache?

Not sure how you do that?

Quote
0x0000
Can you access their wiki using the Google cache?