Hi,

-i am using RS Ormerod Printer. My end of extruder level (outgoing of filament) is higher than IR Sensor level. When i press z down button , IR sensor is firstly touching bed. How can i repair that?
if i print some part IR sensor is crashing with part. Otherhand after z level calibrate, i will print but extruder start 5mm higher over bed. How can calibrate that? And i cant enter reprappro.com web site. Are there any crash ?

- The other problem is extruder slipping. Press extrude button ( 5mm , 200mm/min) . filament cant exture and extruder motor is stutting. i checked all wiring and tubes for any problem. However There arent any problem.

Thanks,

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/11/2014 04:00PM by kd3i.

Have you checked that your print head is level? You can level it by adjusting the position of the x-runner bearing screw in its slot. If the print head really is level, I suggest you check that you have assembled it correctly, e.g. did you include the mdf spacer under the nozzle mount?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

The mdf spacer placed correctly. I dont know adjust screw for level. I will try tomorrow that on printer. Thanks your advise. i will return result.

Hi kd3i

As dc42 said, you can adjust the angle of the whole hot end, to lift it up. The bearing on the back of the x-carriage is adjustable, and should lift the sensor up. However, the bed needs to be close to flat too; if there is a big angle, the sensor may be very close. The nozzle should be 1 to 2mm below the sensor, and the fan duct.

If you can also post a picture, that may help diagnose the problem.

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Hi kd3i

I have been lurking about here since Christmas after I received what I assume to be one of the first Green RepRapPro Ormerods (On Christmas Eve). I will bore you all with my build in another post but you seem to have the same few same problems I had, so its about time I join in.

My nozzle was the same height +-0.1mm as the fan ducts and the sensor and one of the 2 would always rip the 1st layer up while trying to print. To get round this I did the following.

Unscrew the IR sensor and push it as high as you can then tighten, there is some play in the PCB holes to move it.
Unscrew the fan and force the duct half as high as you can and re-tighten. I have a 1mm lip between the 2 halfs now.
Add a few washers between the mdf heat spacer and the nozzle mount to lower the nozzle relative to the IR sensor.

I then printed a new nozzle mount designed by Simon (Thank you) from this post New Nozzle Mount the one he designed to make the head 0.8mm lower than the head. This will also help you with the mount melting latter on.

Using this replacement part I have managed several prints. I did print it fairly solid as suggested.


I also had chattering problems. 2 causes, first I did have a loose connection from the extruder drive and the board. This seemed to have happened after my first few trials, the way I plugged the connectors in caused one of the other leads to tug on it and pull it out. This manifested as chattering even with no load (I removed the gear to test). The second cause was the hobbed insert not tight enough. I ended up putting a nut on after it and tightening it as hard as I could then removing the nut and the hobbed insert was then solid. Had to really tighten the lock nut to the point where I could not hold the gear stationary as well.

Hope this offers some help.

@Ian I will replace my initial nozzle mount and take some pictures as I'm still not at 1-2mm maybe something else is awry.

Dan.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/11/2014 06:17PM by FalseIdle.

Hi..
Bed Plane Compensation – fully automatic...
The old sensor gave me the blinking signal, I probably broke, with the new sensor the
Bed Plane Compensation – fully automatic - works perfectly ... I love the old system but life is short!
Tested with the last firmware.
Sorry for the picture ..... RaspberryPi NoIR Camera Board, to calibrate.


Dario

Thanks everyone, i checked angle with x bearing screw.it's good now.

i loosed nozzle(p1). Now level of all is ok. sensor and duct level is simular. Nozzle level is lower (p2). But is it right solution? i dont make sure.

other question. During z level calibration, when IR sensor see the bed, should nozzle touch the bed? or Is there some distance?.When i am printing . on first layer nozzle to bed distance is 1.5-2mm. So filament dont stick bed. will i loose nozzle more?

[www.reprappro.com]

[www.reprappro.com]

done

Quote
kd3i
Thanks everyone, i checked angle with x bearing screw.it's good now.

i loosed nozzle(p1). Now level of all is ok. sensor and duct level is simular. Nozzle level is lower (p2). But is it right solution? i dont make sure.

other question. During z level calibration, when IR sensor see the bed, should nozzle touch the bed? or Is there some distance?.When i am printing . on first layer nozzle to bed distance is 1.5-2mm. So filament dont stick bed. will i loose nozzle more?

if you have a bad start but you need to print ....
pause on the perimeter ASAP, click on motor off... manually select the desired location ...
if you do not have a gauge ... paper?..
click on resume

is a bit like taking the train on the fly
but if you need...

p.s.: my old sensor was broken but I printed

Dario

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/12/2014 07:03AM by Ormerod187.

Thank YOU ALL ADVISE.

İ cant enter reprappro.com(maybe it crashed) so i cant read documentation. i solved all problem z calibration thanks everyone

My nozzle was also higher than the ir sensor, so I placed two washers on each of the screws that hold the MDF spacer and the hot end.
I too have a wobbly x-runner. Other solutions are outlined in other threads, but mine was to place a shim under the x-runner bearing.

@Dave_Longdown, I did the washer mod as well, which I believe also helps with further heat isolation due to the air gap.
I am going to print this part in ABS with a thermal insulator top and bottom, plus the washers for my build.

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Ormerod #007 (shaken but not stirred!)