melt / sag print head easy fix

Hi,

Some of Ormerod users experienced overheat screws which will melt the print head holder . I apply silicone heat transfer compound in between cooling block surface and heat sink. The heat from cooling block transfer to heat sink very quickly and tested several hours of printing and the two screws are cool to touch.


Ew

Hello tru

Quote
tru168
Hi,

Some of Ormerod users experienced overheat screws which will melt the print head holder . I apply silicone heat transfer compound in between cooling block surface and heat sink. The heat from cooling block transfer to heat sink very quickly and tested several hours of printing and the two screws are cool to touch.


Ew

Yeah, I was thinking about using "Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound" I have loads of that stuff in one of my draws.

Paul

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RS Ormerod No 436

TMD:

Try it, you can feel the deference before and after. I used just sparingly to avoid dirty heatsink.


Ew

Quote
tru168
Hi,

Some of Ormerod users experienced overheat screws which will melt the print head holder . I apply silicone heat transfer compound in between cooling block surface and heat sink. The heat from cooling block transfer to heat sink very quickly and tested several hours of printing and the two screws are cool to touch.


Ew

beautiful solution!


Dario

Quote
tru168
TMD:

Try it, you can feel the deference before and after. I used just sparingly to avoid dirty heatsink.


Ew

Well, I haven't really done long prints, the longest was the coat hook which was about an hour and at first while it was printing I thought I saw it start to sag a little (paranoia) however once finished and cooled down I checked and it was still level.

As for a dirty heatsink I will clean it first and then wipe off the unneeded compound.

Like you said its worth a try.

I am still tempted in buying a 12mm by 16mm Rod and cut and file down an aluminium "nozzle-mount" but the rod isn't that cheap for just a little peace to be cut from it, but to me it seems like just passing the buck of the issue.

Paul

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RS Ormerod No 436

I had already applied some spare Arctic Silver i had knocking about from a PC M/B build, when I originally built the hot end, looking back it does actually mention it in the build instructions

Quote
Ian
Use the two screws into the cooling block to hold all five major pieces together. If you have it you can put a little heatsink compound between the cooling block and the heatsink.

Hot end assembly

Matt

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/18/2014 12:33PM by iamburny.

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Limited Edition Red RS Ormerod 1 #144 of 200 - RRP 1.09fw
iamburnys Ormerod Upgrades Github
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I didn't see that instruction when I assemble mine.

Quote
tru168
I didn't see that instruction when I assemble mine.

Yeah, strangely I also didn't see it, however it has been there at least from the 31st of December 2013 when I printed mine off.
I must of missed it of somebody started to talk to me or something because I missed it

Paul

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RS Ormerod No 436

Maybe RepRapPro could look into supplying a short length of thermal conductive tape. You would only need a 20 mm length of the 25 mm wide to do the job. Or 10 mm of 50 mm wide if you can get it.

regards
Andy

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/19/2014 01:11AM by kwikius.

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Ormerod #318
www.zoomworks.org - Free and Open Source Stuff

So long as there's good contact between the heatsink and the aluminium heater block, there shouldn't be any great need for extra compounds between them; I don't usually worry about it. They're both aluminium, and conduct heat rapidly. Thermal paste such as Arctic Silver has an upper heat limit, which we exceed, so the paste may dry out and be a BARRIER to heat transfer:
From the Arctic Silver site: [www.arcticsilver.com]
Extended Temperature Limits:
Peak: –50°C to >180°C
Long-Term: –50°C to 130°C

A better solution might be a strip of silver foil, but even that may insulate more than it helps!

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Quote
droftarts
So long as there's good contact between the heatsink and the aluminium heater block, there shouldn't be any great need for extra compounds between them; I don't usually worry about it. They're both aluminium, and conduct heat rapidly. Thermal paste such as Arctic Silver has an upper heat limit, which we exceed, so the paste may dry out and be a BARRIER to heat transfer:
From the Arctic Silver site: [www.arcticsilver.com]
Extended Temperature Limits:
Peak: –50°C to >180°C
Long-Term: –50°C to 130°C

Ian, are you confusing the extruder temperature with the temperature of the aluminium nozzle mount block? I've seen a couple of posts - for example [forums.reprap.org] - in which people report that even when printing ABS, the nozzle mount block only reaches about 20C above ambient. So Arctic Silver should be fine between the nozzle mount block and the heatsink.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Good point dc42, I've been a fool! The aluminium heatsink block shouldn't ever get that hot. Thanks! Well, I can't be right ALL the time...

Ian
RepRapPro tech support