Bed Clips

Just came across these on thingiverse. Has anyone made any yet or have anything similar that works. Other than the picture frame retainers shown in another thread?

Hmm I'm not sure clamping the mdf under pressure will be good, it barely has the strength to stay where it's put as it is.. I'm heading more for getting shot of the wood altogether.

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
Davek0974
Hmm I'm not sure clamping the mdf under pressure will be good, it barely has the strength to stay where it's put as it is.. I'm heading more for getting shot of the wood altogether.

I don't see it will make it any worse. The glass is essentially being supported by the MDF via the bolts - if anything the clips will cause the MDF to hang from the glass all around and take a bit of pressure off the corners to help even out the load.

Anyway, I'll let you know when the clips finish printing in about 40 minutes.

Thanks to jy_oc_hx for the pointer - can't do any harm to try out. My reservation is that I print with ABS and so my glass sits at 105 deg. I'm printing my clips in ABS, but prolonged exposure to that heat may well cause them to deform and lose grip.

Dave
(#106)

Well, I completed printing 12 of those clips, but they are too loose for my bed - they just fall off when the Y axis moves back & forth. Testing with a bit of cardboard as a spacer under them it seems like they might work if they were tighter, so I might knock out a few with a modified dimension.

Dave
(#106)

These [forums.reprap.org] came out when I had a hangover a couple of months ago Looking back it looks like 192 didn't post a follow up on how well they worked,

Ray

seen a couple of posts about the clips catching, I'm sure most have done this/ thought of this but in case not... just pinched the top metal lever and pulled out once in place.
this seems to work for me (i say work, i still cant print to any sort of quality)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/03/2014 06:29PM by 88Zombies.

never mind the quality, feel the width! (which, admittedly, may not make much sense to the under-fifties)

Ray

I recall musing on whether replacement bed clips could be printed some time ago, but Ian suggested that printed clips would soften too much with the bed heat [forums.reprap.org]. I finished up with these instead [forums.reprap.org].

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

ah that was the thread i saw a while ago, yes I'm going to pick some of those up next time i swing by wilkinsons!

looks a lot more professional

I think i have resigned myself to the fact that there is nothing i can print that will do as good of a job as the picture frame clips. Guess i'll be going to wilkinsons today whilst i'm in town.

I've used kapton tape to hold my bed components together for months - it has the advantage that it binds all layers and the nozzle passes over it as if it wasn't there, I just press the layers at each corner gently together and wrap tape from glass surface round to the mdf underneath, I also tape over the exposed heater connectors if I remember to

Ray

Quote
rayhicks
I've used kapton tape to hold my bed components together for months - it has the advantage that it binds all layers and the nozzle passes over it as if it wasn't there, I just press the layers at each corner gently together and wrap tape from glass surface round to the mdf underneath, I also tape over the exposed heater connectors if I remember to
Ray

Hmmm - that sounds like a plan. The downside being that I won't be able to remove the glass between prints so will have to wait for the whole bed to cool down before recoating with solvent cement. (It goes bubbly and horrible if you coat it onto hot glass). On the plus side I probably won't have to re-do my bed compensation if I don't take the glass off.

Dave
(#106)

Since I've thinned the cement with acetone as you suggested, I find it doesn't bubble so much (maybe I've thinned it more than you, I had only a scraping left in the pot before thinning) - normally I've just slit the tape with a stanley knife if I need to remove the glass for cleaning, but I haven't tried sticking it back on when hot,

Ray

Quote
rayhicks
Since I've thinned the cement with acetone as you suggested, I find it doesn't bubble so much (maybe I've thinned it more than you, I had only a scraping left in the pot before thinning) - normally I've just slit the tape with a stanley knife if I need to remove the glass for cleaning, but I haven't tried sticking it back on when hot,

Ray

Since that post, I have been adding acetone regularly as the tin gets low, and if it doesn't leave much deposit on the glass I've added a few clippings of white ABS filament, which eventually completely dissolves. I doubt there is any of the original solvent cement in the tin! Acetone boils at under 60 degrees, so the glass needs to cool below that to avoid bubbles. On the other hand I usually have plenty of things to do before starting a new print, so it isn't that much of a problem to wait.

Dave
(#106)