Where are the Ormerod 2 STLs?

Could someone let me know where the STLs for the Ormerod 2 printed parts are please?

Can't find them, or any links to them on this forum.

Thanks in advance

I would expect them to appear in the github repo, but it seems it has not yet been updated.

Thanks anyway, I looked there - you're right, seems they're too busy printing parts for Ormerod 2 kits (I hope) to publish the STLs.

I'll send them an email (got an O2 on order) to ask if they can upload them.

Hi, yes, we've been rather busy! We hope to get them up on github over the weekend, but first need to tidy up the design files, and get the latest versions together. Also need to tag the current repository with an 'Ormerod 1 final', so people can get back to that easily, if they need Ormerod 1 parts.

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Will it be possible to buy an hardware upgrade kit for v2? And would that be a recommended upgrade?

Thanks Ian

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bitfield
Will it be possible to buy an hardware upgrade kit for v2? And would that be a recommended upgrade?

The most significant improvement in Ormerod 2 IMO is the better bed support and y-belt fastening/tensioning. Maybe RRP will offer an upgrade kit, but you can fix the problems without taking so much of your machine apart by buying DaveK's aluminium bed support (see [www.ebay.co.uk]), and printing Matt's y-belt fixings (see [www.thingiverse.com]) and my spacers (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:441103). The only other things you need are a few screws, nuts and washers.

The other significant improvement is the modulated IR sensor. The new one should be less sensitive to ambient light by a factor of 20 or so. My differential LED z-probe is even better. See [miscsolutions.wordpress.com] and [forums.reprap.org] for more.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/29/2014 07:06PM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Just checked the git repo on a whim, and it seems the Ormerod 2 parts are all there since just a few hours ago.

Yes, they are there now (Thanks Ian and RepRapPro).

I have got one possible issue with a part, though.

The y axis motor bracket - just printed one out, and while you've put in elongated screw holes so you can theoretically move the motor back and forth, the curved area that accommodates the circular ridge on the motor doesn't seem to have been elongated. Hence, when you move the motor along in the screw hole the circular ridge ridges up the bracket and the motor goes out of alignment with the other screw holes.

See my photo to see what happens at each of the two extremes of the screw hole. It's not a printing error on my part, either - the supplied green bracket does it too.

Hi DAR

Yes, we're aware of this. However, you only need 1mm of movement, because the belt pitch is 2.032mm, which the mount is perfectly able to do - it just looks like it should be more, because the screw slots are longer than they need to be. If you run out of adjustment, you just move the belt another tooth in the belt clamp under the y-carriage. We are looking at doing a small update to this part, however, to improve the range of adjustment, and strengthen the edge at the back, as if you overtighten the two M6 countersunk socket screws into the aluminium extrusion, the part can crack through the layers; the idler end should get this too.

Personally, I'd have preferred a hinged idler at the other end, and the Y-motor mounted solidly, but I got overruled! Perhaps someone would like to do a version...? Or take johneato's version ( here: [forums.reprap.org] ) and mirror it for the Orm2? Don't forget to add your updates to the improvements page: [reprap.org]

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

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droftarts
Personally, I'd have preferred a hinged idler at the other end, and the Y-motor mounted solidly, but I got overruled! Perhaps someone would like to do a version...? Or take johneato's version ( here: [forums.reprap.org] ) and mirror it for the Orm2? Don't forget to add your updates to the improvements page: [reprap.org]

Thanks for the acknowledgement Ian, I am still using this hinged idler, and it is still working great.If I say so myself ;-)

Thank for the ormerod 2 stl files but what has happened to the ormerod 1 files?

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appjaws - Core XYUV Duet Ethernet Duex5
firmware 3.1.1 Web Interface 3.1.1
Ormerod 1-converted to laser engraver, Duet wifi
OpenSCAD version 2020.07
slic3r-1.3.0, Simplify3D 4.1.2, Cura-4.4.1

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johneato
Thanks for the acknowledgement Ian, I am still using this hinged idler, and it is still working great.If I say so myself ;-)

It's my preferred solution, but it means extra printed parts and screws/nuts! It's very difficult to get such things past the boss, when we aim to reduce the number of printed parts and the rest of the BoM as much as possible... Perhaps add it to the improvements page? It took me ages to find!

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appjaws1
Thank for the ormerod 2 stl files but what has happened to the ormerod 1 files?

Ormerod 1 is still there; it's been tagged as a 'release'. Click the 'release' button at the top of the window on the main github page gets you to: [github.com]
If you want to browse the files, from the main github page click the 'branch' drop-down, click the 'tags' tab, and click 'v1.0' to get here: [github.com]

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

In my opinion using countersunk screws in printed parts should be avoided if at all possible, especially if the bolt hole is in a side wall. The countersink will cause sideways pressure on the hole and the plastic will slowly deform over time causing the bolt to become loose even if it does not delaminate as you tighten. If you need the bolt head to be flush, you can usually put in a recess to take a cap head bolt instead (you might need to increase the wall thickness). A countersunk head will exert sideways tensional forces on the plastic while a cap head will exert mainly compressional forces which plastic can withstand better. If the purpose of countersinking is only for aesthetic reasons, you can perhaps print off some decorative bolt head caps instead of countersinking.

Dave
(#106)