Z setting help

With slic3r 1.2.6 you can do evrything repetier does

Quote
Igloo_it
I used the repetier in the past with another printer and I can say that it's much better than the combination of slic3r + prontface. The first big difference is that I can move and rotate as I want with repetier

It sounds to me that you have never tried the web interface, and you are using an old version of slic3r.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

the slic3r version is 1.1.7 and yes i never used the web interface due of the fact that i'm using a surface 3 pro that have no ethernet on board, i'll download the latest version of slic3r thank

Quote
Igloo_it
the slic3r version is 1.1.7 and yes i never used the web interface due of the fact that i'm using a surface 3 pro that have no ethernet on board, i'll download the latest version of slic3r thank

What abou WLAN? I connected my Ormerod to my router. My PC is also directly connected to this router, but when I have a long time print I could step into the living room, watch TV and can look on my smartphone how far the printing is.

Also, if it isn't convenient to connect a cable from the printer to the router, you can buy a WiFi to Ethernet adaptor for just a few pounds/euros/dollars.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thanks for the suggestion about the Ethernet connection. Could someone tell me some trick to improve the accuracy of the plane leveling, actually it's not accurate, one side (close to the z shaft) is ok but when go far from the x home the height of the hot end is not enough. Thanks

1.Home all axes
[reprappro.com]

2.position the head somewhere near any of the scews labled A,B and C and put a peice of paper(A4 plain white paper thickness is 0.1mm) between the bed and the hotend

3.Lower the Z axis till it is 0mm then position the hotend over the B scew and then adjust the scew until the hotend grabs the paper.

4.Repeat at the C Location

That is my way of leveling the bed manualy.

Edit: Oh yeah this is of Ormerod 2.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/16/2015 06:36AM by Darathy.

Quote
Igloo_it
Thanks for the suggestion about the Ethernet connection. Could someone tell me some trick to improve the accuracy of the plane leveling, actually it's not accurate, one side (close to the z shaft) is ok but when go far from the x home the height of the hot end is not enough. Thanks

This is adjusted using the bolts in the 4 corners of the bed. In your case you should lower the bed using the two bolts at the rear or raise with the two at the front. It is a tricky adjustment that takes quite a long time to carry out but is well worth it. Many of us have replaced the supplied bed support with a triangular aluminium support. The one supplied is not very stable and easily goes out of adjustment, and also it is a bit easier to adjust 3 points than 4. If however the Y ground rods are not exactly parallel in the Z plane, you will not be able to adjust the bed to be level because the front will move up and down as the bed moves back and forth. This has no built-in adjustment but can be fixed by elongating the holes in the printed part that attached the acrylic sides and moving the acrylic arm carefully up or down a tiny amount. Bed-levelling is an adjustment that is well worth while because it removes the need to use bed compensation, which stops the wear on the Z screw.

Dave

I also tried anything to level the bed manually. It worked for me, but the auto-leveling was much better. So if you have the chance try using the auto leveling. For me I used the blue painter tape and this is also great for the delivered sensor. I have no problems with ambient light or temperature so far.

i have quit the auto bed leveling becouse it always outputs wrong measurements atleast for me. i will have to get DC's sensor soon and see if that solves my problems.

Dave,

one stupid question. On thingiverse there are some plastic parts replacing/ supporting the MDF bed. Can I use them instead of the aluminium parts? They should level the bed to zero according to the description on thingiverse. But I am not sure, I did not read anything here about it. I would print it in HIPS I think, because of the temperature resistents and the less warping.

Thanks for prompt reaction, I have ormerod 2 with wood 3 screws support, I'll try to explain much better the problem.
Near to the x home there are two screws and in this area the height is ok, in the other side (far from x home) there is only one screw and if I move the bed on y axis in one side the z is low and on the other side higher, of course it's a minimal difference that make a big difference on the first layers.
My question is that the bed leveling should solve this problem but even if some compensation is made it's not enough

If i am reading this right you have a Rod Twist problem.

See what DC42 wrote in my post: [forums.reprap.org]

It seems its a comon problem with Ormerod , i still have the problem and cant really get rid of it , but its a lot better with the Adjustable Y-Idler mentioned in the post.

For example this
My favorite:
[www.thingiverse.com]

And also these two:
[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]