BackEMF's SmartRap 0.4.7 build

hehe after 3 days of charging my cam was just able to squeese one image before telling me tto recharge again LOL



its a bit blurry, the screen protection foil is still on...

That's a good shot of the screen, better than some I'v seen. Congrats on getting it to work. Serge should grab that file and include it with his Marlin firmware bundle. Looks great! Did you try it with a reverse image?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/23/2014 07:54PM by markstephen.

Looks Good...

Thanks Mike

Indeed, i'll also try inverse Mark!

DOGMbitmaps.h

And ready...

heeey. that's cool logo

I'm going to try to integrate it on github .

hank you so much..was a handwork i see. hehe

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the Smartrap project

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You're welcome. :-)

Today Reg's package arrived.
Thanks Reg, that hotend looks great!

So i will be doing some mods tomorrow. . :-D

I've been waiting patiently on mine to arrive. I need to tear mine down for some repairs/updates, and figure I might as well wait for his parts to arrive and do it all at once.

Take notes! I want to cliffs notes version lol...

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BackEMF
Today Reg's package arrived.
Thanks Reg, that hotend looks great!

So i will be doing some mods tomorrow. . :-D

You are welcome.
Have fun.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Almost done, I ran out of crimp connectors.... So that's for tomorrow.

Regpye, what setting do you use for the thermistor?
And I still need to get the extruder steps right. The summer temperature is messing with my head, it's kinda hard for me to think with a sintered brain... :-)

Quote
BackEMF
Almost done, I ran out of crimp connectors.... So that's for tomorrow.

Regpye, what setting do you use for the thermistor?
And I still need to get the extruder steps right. The summer temperature is messing with my head, it's kinda hard for me to think with a sintered brain... :-)

With the 100K thermistors that I am using, I just selected 1 from the list in the config file, and left all the default settings. I have never needed to change it, it's pretty spot on.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

ok Thx,
I hope my friend has a few crimp connectors, shops are closed since today is another sunday. ...the holy book is messing with progress.
Else i will work on the ATX idea.

Quote
BackEMF
ok Thx,
I hope my friend has a few crimp connectors, shops are closed since today is another sunday. ...the holy book is messing with progress.
Else i will work on the ATX idea.

I stopped using crimp connectors for the thermistors, they are far too unreliable.
I strip off a 1cm length of wire and about the same for the thermistor and use a telecom wrap method (wrap one around the other tightly) and then solder.
Solder doesn't get hot enough to melt, so you can use it no problem, I have never had one fail since doing that way. I also use some heat shrink tube on both wires.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

O, yes thats all good, though i'm doing some rewiring because I've ended up with a decent spagetti after al the previous hacks.
If the hotend prints as decent as it feels then im VERY happy. :-)

Finally, i'm printing again. We had some freak weather, a basement full of muddy water, and as icing on the cake the telecom was out for a day.

So...

Extruder and hotend mounted, the wires all nice and tidy.

First prints went ok-ish first 20 layers all great and then thing become messe (probably extruding a bit to much)
I will look into this tomorrow... I can't focus on this today... I need more steps per unit to have less extrusion right?

One thing i notice is that i can now print a few degrees cooler. 200C gives the best results at the moment.

Alright, i have some catching up to do.

The pas couple of days i've been printing in the little spare time i had.
Some feedback on Regpye's hotend:

I started with the .4 nozzle that all printed very nice, absolutely nothing wrong with that. So then i moved to test the .5 nozzle.
At first it printed great, then after some time due to leakage things got a bit messy. Reg already told me to tighten it when hot and so i did, several times. and finally the leakage seemed to stop. So i printed more, speeded up, adjusted the temperature, and the prints came out very nice (a few boring calibration prints).

Then i discovered that there was more leakage above the heaterblock the PLA is now flowing out. The printing is just fine as long as i clean up the drops, though Reg, you might want to look deeper into this issue.

I'm now printing with .5 nozzle, 30mm/sec (walls at 25mm/sec), temperature 203C Maybe the walls are a bit to fast, the corners are not as tight as with the .4 nozzle.
The calibration cube i'm printing is with 100% infil printed with naturel PLA

And with this translucent PLA nice to see how good the infill is fused together. BTW this seems to be usable as a lightpipe although it is a bit yellow-ish.

So far for the first bit of feedback on the hotend.

Quote
BackEMF
Alright, i have some catching up to do.

The pas couple of days i've been printing in the little spare time i had.
Some feedback on Regpye's hotend:

I started with the .4 nozzle that all printed very nice, absolutely nothing wrong with that. So then i moved to test the .5 nozzle.
At first it printed great, then after some time due to leakage things got a bit messy. Reg already told me to tighten it when hot and so i did, several times. and finally the leakage seemed to stop. So i printed more, speeded up, adjusted the temperature, and the prints came out very nice (a few boring calibration prints).

Then i discovered that there was more leakage above the heaterblock the PLA is now flowing out. The printing is just fine as long as i clean up the drops, though Reg, you might want to look deeper into this issue.

I'm now printing with .5 nozzle, 30mm/sec (walls at 25mm/sec), temperature 203C Maybe the walls are a bit to fast, the corners are not as tight as with the .4 nozzle.
The calibration cube i'm printing is with 100% infil printed with naturel PLA

And with this translucent PLA nice to see how good the infill is fused together. BTW this seems to be usable as a lightpipe although it is a bit yellow-ish.

So far for the first bit of feedback on the hotend.

Thanks for that feed back.
The cause of the leakage is the PTFE sleeve is not fitting into the lower brass threaded section properly. It should slip in only 3mm and if it is not in place there can be leakage in that area that you are speaking of...
Have a look at my website (still under development) in the hotend section, all the drawings are there to show how it is made.
You will see that the brass section I am talking about has a 3mm x 3mm hole at the top end.
[regpye.com.au]

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

I send the PM before i've read this,

I'll have a look at it tomorrow and see if I can fix it. After seeing that drawing i think it is what i described in the PM, I think it could have dislocated then i changed the nozzle's

Quote
BackEMF
I send the PM before i've read this,

I'll have a look at it tomorrow and see if I can fix it. After seeing that drawing i think it is what i described in the PM, I think it could have dislocated then i changed the nozzle's

Easy fix, I have also sent you a PM.
Should be OK after putting it back again.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Okay, thank you!

Im having a fight with the slicers.

When i place the Rack and pineon part diagonal on the bed and slice it up then both slicer and cura manage to skew the layers, at first i tought it was slipping fishing line ore skipping steppers but it's really a slicing issue. when i turn the part 180 degrees then the skew moves along to the other side.... and when i print other long parts diagonal then they slice and print just fine.

What can be done about this?

Quote
BackEMF
Im having a fight with the slicers.

When i place the Rack and pineon part diagonal on the bed and slice it up then both slicer and cura manage to skew the layers, at first i tought it was slipping fishing line ore skipping steppers but it's really a slicing issue. when i turn the part 180 degrees then the skew moves along to the other side.... and when i print other long parts diagonal then they slice and print just fine.

What can be done about this?

Try changing the angle that it prints at in Slic3r. normally it is set at 45 degrees. Change that and see if it fixes it.
Printer settings>Infill >Advanced>Fill angle

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/23/2014 08:24AM by regpye.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Thanks Reg,
The first half of the print was ok and then it went wrong again... So i will play with those setting until i get it right.

I've received the perlon wire and have fitted it on the SmartRap and am now recalibrating the X and Y

Perlon thread

It's probably the same as thick (0.7mm) fishing line but it's available in several hardware stores in europe who have a nylon rope in store.

The main improvement i see is that it doesn't cut into the PLA shaft couplers

And I use only 2 turns around the shaft coupler

There is definitely something odd going on with Cura + Marlin + printing herrinbone R&P rack.

the first half of the layers are printed like they should, and then when the herringbone teeth are skewed in the other direction then they are printed almost right up.

Now, im suspecting Marlin, since this also happened with the previous version of Cura and before that with Slicer. But that also doesn't make sense since other objects are printed ok.

I'm really puzzled by this at the moment

I'm using the latest cura and just printed 2 racks and they came out good. Check that the new fishing line is not slipping.

2 turns just doesn't sound like it can grip the shaft well.

Make it 5 turns at least. I've never had a problem with this many turns. You might want to try that.

Quote
MelT
2 turns just doesn't sound like it can grip the shaft well.

Make it 5 turns at least. I've never had a problem with this many turns. You might want to try that.

Yes I agree. With my fishing line model I had to use 5 turns as well because otherwise it starts slipping after a while (probably because it gets warm with friction)
I used 27Kg mono filament fishing line because I was unable to find the other. Still works OK, no problems with it. Keep it nice 'n' tight.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

if block the Y axis then the line doesnt slip, though the motors loose steps.

I'm going to add more turns and hope that solves it. Though i doubt it.
it's only the Y axis that has this issue in X direction all is ok.
Small round and square objects also print ok.
I really hope more turns solve it.

BTW 5 turns will cause other issues with this 0.7mm line when it runs against the top and bottom of the shaft coupler.

The 0.7mm line give much smoother straight print lines since it doesn't "jump" as easy as the thin line with the same tension.