Can somebody help me

Hello,
I have bought for 2 weeks a Rostock Reprap printer but the stepper motors (from Extruder and X,Y,Z Axes) don't move and don't make any noise.
I can connect with repetier host to arduino an even control the bed temperature manual, but I can't control the temperature of the hotend . It's still stay for about 20 degrees.
The functionality of the sensors from bed and hotend are ok and they react well.
So can somebody please help me or advise to a tutorial how to prove every single electronic part. I measured the voltage from the power supplier and the value is about 11.73V.
Is this voltage ok?

Yes, that voltage is okay. Could you describe how things are wired?

So... I'm gonna say this is a wiring issue for the motors, but it could be the motor shields.

The board is probably ok simply because you can get sensor readings from it.

If your motor shields are in backwards, that could be why there is no sound, but, generally speaking, you can't do a continuity test if motor shields are an issue.

Now to check the wiring of the motor it's self; You need a multimeter that has a resistance setting. Touch each of the prongs of the motors and determine which ones are paired with one another for your self. Do not trust the other person who put it together. Then follow the wiring to the board and make sure that they pair up correctly.

For me the correct pairing was a1-b1, a2-b2 on the board, and on the motors I had to ignore the middle two pins. I had 6 pins on the motor, and the board was setup to accept 4. (that is to say, i had bipolar motors and the board was designed to use unipolar motors). It took several rewirings, and some stuff about bipolar versus unipolar motors to get it correct.

If you don't have push connector pins, now is a good time to invest so that stuff is modular.

Here are two pictures of the "situation"
[www.dropbox.com]
[www.dropbox.com]
You might can see something wether this is ok or not?

I have proved it, and the wires are correctly paired like as you say a1-b1, a2-b2 and so on...

Your driver shields are drv8825 and I believe they have to be turned around. ( But they are already dead, for sure )
The GND pin on the shield should face away from the power connector.
-Olaf

No that are A 4982 driver, but you are right the GND pin face away from the power connector, so they shouldn't be turn around

do you think when one driver is broken than that nothing will work?, even not the control of the hotend?

How can I proof the moter and drivers wether they work or not?

This code, [reprap.org], should run your motors back and forth and flash your LEDs, assuming they still work.

I think the assumption is that you fried the stepper drivers by plugging them in backwards. So I might remove all but one of the drivers before running the test code, just in case nothing is damaged yet. If you get the LEDs flashing, but the enabled motor doesn't move, then try flipping the driver around and rerun the code.

Good luck, hope nothing is permanently damaged.

Quote
Dmagic
No that are A 4982 driver, but you are right the GND pin face away from the power connector, so they shouldn't be turn around

OK, i got confused by the bigger chip. I didn´t know about different A49xx varaints.
If you have identified the drivers-mounting is correct, you should not turn them around "just to see"
From what you said about bed-heating works, but nothing else, the next best idea is to check the smaller fuse or the traces from the connector to the fuse and then further.

You have wired both 12V pairs at the power-terminal, right?
-Olaf
edit:
Just checked your pictures again. It seems you haven´t wired the power-bridges!?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/10/2015 03:21AM by o_lampe.

Today i have tried the motor testing.
The leds flashed and the sound of the power supplier different than normal but the motors didn't move
So whats the problem?? I connect a led lamp to a motor and make some rotation and the led lights.
So how can I measure the current or the voltage from driver or motor wether the motor gets current or not?

@Kurzaa

what do you mean with " then try flipping the driver around and rerun the code." I thought the GND of the driver has to face in the other
side than the power connection??

Oh please, don't flip the driver around. That was a suggestion based on o_lamps identification of drv8825 drivers. Since you are using A4988s, don't worry about it. I am sure you have the drivers correctly situated. Thankfully o_lampe already mentioned this in his last post.

As he mentioned though, you don't have your input power wired correctly. A RAMPS board has two power rails. The bottom set, closest to the edge, which you do not appear to have wired is intended to supply 5A (?) to your hot end, motors, and any fans you have wired. The set to the right of it, which you do appear to have wired, is intended to supply 12A (?) directly to the heated bed and nothing else.

If you have a large enough power supply (20A+), then you should just be able to jump a second set of wires from your current source to the bottom set of terminals. I think. If you are using a PC PS, you might consider running 12V from a second rail on the PS, if it has it.

Hope that makes sense.

Do you have a 24V bed? If not just split the 2 sets of wires you have going to the heated bed terminal to feed both input terminals.

The thing is that the printer worked when I bought it from te seller. And I haven't changed the wires. So if you guys say that the ramps should supply the driver so it might be that the ramps is broken ??

Split the wires like Kurzaa said and don´t buy a new RAMPS.

Do you buy a new car, because the tank is empty?
-Olaf

I have splited the power wires into minus plus minus plus, but no changes when I switch power supplier on, i have measured 12 V on the driver, hotend and heat bed

Hey guys it works,
via la community. but i have the next problem that the motor of the Z axes rattle when I want drive homing position.
What could that be and thx very very much for your soluting of the powering.

Rattling Z-axis tells you it is set too fast.
I reduce z-speed from 5 to 3 and the noise was gone.

You can do it via smart-lcd or better change the firmware and reflash it.

#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {450, 450, 3, 25}    // (mm/sec)

Don´t forget to store the new value in EEprom . ( via smart LCD or M502 & M500 command )
-Olaf

The Z Axes goes up and down an when I move 10mm the it rattles.
The Z Axes won't to reach endstoppes in homing position