Is it okay to not to use smooth rods in 3d printer

Hello everybody. I recently decided to build a delta 3d printer (almost like rostock). This is my first build. So I'm rather new to all of this, anyway. Access to smooth rods is not very easy in my country. Would it be okay if I were to buy stainless steel rods with h9 tolerance. I thought maybe sanding and polishing could work. Would it work? I have lm8uu bearings but I've read that it would damage stainless steel. Can I use plastic bearing, would it last? Or I can just use bronze bushings. I can change to v slot's at worst case. I need a Iinear guide of some sort and need some guidance at the moment. Could anyone help?

How good your prints are depends on the parts in the printer. Having said that, I think that most people who make their own 3D printer do it for the pleasure of making and the first successful prints will be a delight to their eyes. Replacing parts like rods and bearings can come later and with finding what is causing the most problems.
There are many people on this, and on other forums, who will tell you that only the best parts will do - often forgetting that they used gas pipe for rods, wood for the frame, and stepper motors from surplus 1980s printers on their own first constructions.
So, Yes. As long as the bearings don't actually rattle on the rods and have no noticeable stiff spots. Check each rod against the others to see if they are sensibly straight.
Quite important things on a Delta printer are that the spacing of the smooth rods is as accurate as you can get it and that all of the Delta rods are exactly the same length. Above all, build it so that parts can be replaced and adjustments can be made.
Mike.

Yep,, use whatever you can find and make it fit then upgrade as you go.
I built my first printer around 2015 using whatever i could find,,,
It had 8mm aluminum rods because i couldn't get proper linear rails, the Plywood for the Frame and Bed came from the Rubbish Dump etc,
Back then you had to work your ass off to build a 3d Printer the electronics where a bloody nightmare, you had to learn how to use Arduino for the Firmware,
Steeper Motors had to be rewired,, thank god for people like the Triffid Hunter (Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide) and all the other people in the RepRap Forum for helping us newbies out.
These days someone screws in 10 bolts and declare they have built a 3d printer,, which always makes me laugh a little bit-,

So far I've designed and built about 20 3d printers using 3d printers to build better 3d printers.
bloody awesome hobby.,,

Greetings from Outback Australia

-=Mindless=-

Thanks a lot to both of you people, I'm very encouraged. In fact, I'm ready to build possibly one of the ugliest printers of all time!

lol,, its going to have to be bloody ugly if its to beat my first attempt,, it better have Sticky Tape and BluTack,,

But i would recommend a "Prusa I3 MK2" type for a first build,,, theirs a lot of information and trouble shooting guides available for them online.

-=Mindless=-

You can use spaghetti if you want.

Just don't expect much.

Ball bearings will cut grooves into soft steel or aluminum. If you can't get hardened and polished rods, it would be better to use bronze or UHMW bushings. UHMW is cheaper and will last longer than PTFE in a sliding bearing situation.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]