Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay

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Waltermixx

Quote
mikez104
Well, that was it. One would think I would have actually checked to see if the diode was good before I soldered it back in. I plugged it in again and nothing. I was like really? Then I unsoldered one side and checked it and yup, it was a dead short through it. I had one close in value and soldered it in and it fired right up.

I had to go in and invert the Y axis but I still cant get the screen to work... Not sure what is wrong there. I used dooms101's config.h file and I thought it was enabled in there.

As far as I know Dooms101 does not have a graphics LCD screen...

I do, so have a look at that section...but seriously check out the youtube video that TOM does about the LCD screen, it's easy to follow...
if you just blindly use someone elses confuration.h file, and they have their motors wired differently and endstops etc, you are looking for problems...

i suggest you look at mine, and see how I have the graphics section commented etc... i've posted my config.h file a couple of time in the thread
hope this helps? i also provided links to TOMS videos on Ramps

10-4. I thought I read that his was the same as mine but I guess it was your config.h file I was thinking of. I'll check the video and take a look at yours. I adjusted the vref on my motors and got the extruder going. Also adjusted the end stops and all looks good. I just need to get glass for the bed and re-level it.

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mikez104

Quote
Booda
Mikez104

[youtu.be]
6:40 mark Shows that only top two pins used for end stops. I am new to this but noticed on your pics using all 3 pins.

Is yours the way I'm supposed to hookup? I'm just reading and watching everything I can on prusa i3 builds. Maybe I'm reading and watching too much?

I have ordered my kit just waiting for to ship; this thread will be my main reference. Great info here

Yeah, I saw that after I hooked it up but they seem to work fine with all three wires. You just have to make sure to put the green wire towards the edge of the board. I recorded a bunch of video as I built mine and will be editing it together and uploading to utube. I did it a bit different than others I have seen. I don't know about you but I don't need to see someone turning a screw or fiddling with stuff for a half hour. I just recorded steps of what to do and what it looks like and any hurdles I came across.

This is a good place for support. Lots of friendly folks here. Good luck!

That would be great is vid showing what each step looks like. I do not need see screws turning anymore puts me to sleep each night . I'd like to see what my part is supposed to look like and that I haven't put anything in backwards or something.

Looking forward to my kit anxiously checking all day tomorrow for a status change to shipped or something (10 day lead time up tomorrow). I'm not far from Walt so figure end next week if ships on time. I'll lurk for now - sure I'll throw some questions by everyone at some point.

Some news about my Folger's printer. I changed the hotend for a shop made E3D style, and that made a huge difference on print quality ! I recomend to change that rubbish Folger's extruder as soon as possible. Another part broke yesterday : a Y bushing. Most of my time I print new parts to get that printer works properly. That's a bit boring, I bought that printer to do works, not printer improvement !

Remember I asked Folger about my broken frame, dammage parts and components and missing ones ? I still have no awnser from Folger. So I decided to open a reclamation though paypal. Request closed by Paypal because the order was up to 45 days. As far there's 20 days before shipping, then 8 days shipping, then some time to mount the kit, then too much time to wait for Folger's awnser, this delay is too short to benefits of any waranty I wish Folger cares a bit more about their customers. I have to deal alone with missing parts, dammage ones, and my broken frame. Anyone who wants to buy a Folger kit should know.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2014 08:00AM by Zavashier.

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Collective intelligence emerges when a group of people work together effectively. Prusa i3 Folger (A lot of the parts are wrong, boring !)

Well took my firmware up from the Folger settings from Google to the current Marlin v1. Now I can't get my bed to heat above 97C. I looked the issue up and can't find anything that identifies an exact solution. I examined the configuration.h from both Folger and Marlin v1 and do not see any changes that stand out in the heat settings.

Both files have the same settings:
#ifdef PIDTEMPBED
//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, argressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)
#define DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00
#define DEFAULT_bedKi .023
#define DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4


Going to put the Folger back and see if it goes back to the original heatup timeframe. --- Update Yes the bed heats up just fine with the Folger configuration.

I checked the previous posts and did nto find anything specific. If anyone has any ideas let me know.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2014 09:30AM by Nargousias.

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Booda
Mikez104

[youtu.be]
6:40 mark Shows that only top two pins used for end stops. I am new to this but noticed on your pics using all 3 pins.

Is yours the way I'm supposed to hookup? I'm just reading and watching everything I can on prusa i3 builds. Maybe I'm reading and watching too much?

I have ordered my kit just waiting for to ship; this thread will be my main reference. Great info here

I think everyone with this kit has used all three pins. Just make sure that the green wire is closest to the edge of the board (if the board is mounted with USB down, that would be the left).

Quote
Nargousias
Well took my firmware up from the Folger settings from Google to the current Marlin v1. Now I can't get my bed to heat above 97C. I looked the issue up and can't find anything that identifies an exact solution. I examined the configuration.h from both Folger and Marlin v1 and do not see any changes that stand out in the heat settings.

Both files have the same settings:
#ifdef PIDTEMPBED
//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, argressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)
#define DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00
#define DEFAULT_bedKi .023
#define DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4


Going to put the Folger back and see if it goes back to the original heatup timeframe. --- Update Yes the bed heats up just fine with the Folger configuration.

I checked the previous posts and did nto find anything specific. If anyone has any ideas let me know.

That is very weird. Wonder what the difference is in Marlin between the old version that is on Folger site and the new version. I don't remember how quickly the Folger version of the firmware took to heatup my bed, but I do know it does take a while to heat the bed up with the newer Marlin so I've tried a few things to speed that up including building a blanket fort for the printer. And then someone posted a message about putting a piece of cardboard on the bed while heating it up (and some insulation under the bed too, don't forget that) and just pulling it off when you're ready to print and that gets my bed temp up super quick. Most days I can get it up in about 5 - 10 minutes. This morning, since my house is at about 20c, it's taking a little bit longer, but not by much.

Quote
mikez104

Quote
Waltermixx

Quote
mikez104
Well, that was it. One would think I would have actually checked to see if the diode was good before I soldered it back in. I plugged it in again and nothing. I was like really? Then I unsoldered one side and checked it and yup, it was a dead short through it. I had one close in value and soldered it in and it fired right up.

I had to go in and invert the Y axis but I still cant get the screen to work... Not sure what is wrong there. I used dooms101's config.h file and I thought it was enabled in there.

As far as I know Dooms101 does not have a graphics LCD screen...

I do, so have a look at that section...but seriously check out the youtube video that TOM does about the LCD screen, it's easy to follow...
if you just blindly use someone elses confuration.h file, and they have their motors wired differently and endstops etc, you are looking for problems...

i suggest you look at mine, and see how I have the graphics section commented etc... i've posted my config.h file a couple of time in the thread
hope this helps? i also provided links to TOMS videos on Ramps

10-4. I thought I read that his was the same as mine but I guess it was your config.h file I was thinking of. I'll check the video and take a look at yours. I adjusted the vref on my motors and got the extruder going. Also adjusted the end stops and all looks good. I just need to get glass for the bed and re-level it.

I don't have the full graphic display, I have the "discount smart controller" (sold by Folger as the 2004) but I found this page very helpful in configuring mine, [reprap.org]. Looking at Waltermixx's photostream my guess is this is the page with the information for setting up your display, [reprap.org].

Hope that helps

Quote
Zavashier
Some news about my Folger's printer. I changed the hotend for a shop made E3D style, and that made a huge difference on print quality ! I recomend to change that rubbish Folger's extruder as soon as possible. Another part broke yesterday : a Y bushing. Most of my time I print new parts to get that printer works properly. That's a bit boring, I bought that printer to do works, not printer improvement !

Can you post pictures of that Extruder that you got? I'm looking at some different options and I'm not quite sure how I'd hook up an E3D to my printer (everything I find on ebay is just the hot end so I'm not sure what else I need) Thanks.

A warning about checking and adjusting the VRef voltage on the stepper driver boards. I was checking and adjusting these by placing my volt meter ground probe on the ground pin that is close to the adjusting pot, when my ground probe slipped off the ground pin and hit the 5 volt power pin located right next to the ground pin. I knew something bad happened because my power supply fan immediately went to full speed, and my PC blacked out. The power supply and PC are okay, but I lost my Arduino Mega board and I think I lost all the stepper driver boards.
Next time, I will only plug-in one stepper board at a time to adjust initially, and I will secure my volt meter ground probe to a ground somewhere on the RAMPS or Arduino board. I noticed in one of the pictures on the Folgers Sky Drive page shows the pins on the stepper driver boards tapped-off with some kapton tape. Now I know why.

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louspinuso


I don't have the full graphic display, I have the "discount smart controller" (sold by Folger as the 2004) but I found this page very helpful in configuring mine, [reprap.org]. Looking at Waltermixx's photostream my guess is this is the page with the information for setting up your display, [reprap.org].

Hope that helps

I watched the youtube vid on the display which made it easy to install. I adjusted the steps to make it smoother also but I can't find the setting in pins.h file that turns off that friggin buzzer.

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louspinuso

Quote
Booda
Mikez104

[youtu.be]
6:40 mark Shows that only top two pins used for end stops. I am new to this but noticed on your pics using all 3 pins.

Is yours the way I'm supposed to hookup? I'm just reading and watching everything I can on prusa i3 builds. Maybe I'm reading and watching too much?

I have ordered my kit just waiting for to ship; this thread will be my main reference. Great info here

I think everyone with this kit has used all three pins. Just make sure that the green wire is closest to the edge of the board (if the board is mounted with USB down, that would be the left).

I looked at the pinout of that port on the board and now see why they say to use the two outer pins. Pin 1 (the outermost pin) is the signal which I would guess connects to one of the digital pins on the arduino. Pin 2 is ground and pin 3 is VCC. Using pins 1 and 2 would just signal that the end stop switch was hit but shorting pin 2 (ground) and 3(VCC) would definatly make bad things happen.

Ok, so I seem to be having a bit of an issue, randomly, with my extruder. It seems to randomly click and skip and not extrude (as it's clicking because it's not pulling filament in). I'm not sure why it's doing this but it will click a few times then it will extrude again, almost like it got stuck trying to push some plastic out. I've verified that it is not due to trouble feeding by providing plenty of slack on the filament and it still winds up happening. I'm not sure what's going on but I've tested at 220, 225 and 230 (abs plastic). I don't think it's getting too hot up at the gear end as the aluminum cooling block is barely warm when this is happening so the only other thing I can think of is that the nozzle is either getting occasionally clogged or the gear is really dirty and not grabbing. I'm leaning towards making another extruder, but I'm not sure what kind to make or what additional parts that I would need to make one. Has anyone else had this sort of problem with this extruder? I ordered some new filament from Amazon, Jet brand. The reviews looked really good so I figured I'd give it a shot and see if they help with my extruding problem, I even got natural to make sure it's not a problem with the dyes in my black ABS causing the problem.

If someone has a particularly helpful website on an extruder I can try with maybe a few printed parts that I might be able to pull off and continue using the parts I've got, please let me know.

Thanks

Quote
louspinuso
Ok, so I seem to be having a bit of an issue, randomly, with my extruder. It seems to randomly click and skip and not extrude (as it's clicking because it's not pulling filament in). I'm not sure why it's doing this but it will click a few times then it will extrude again, almost like it got stuck trying to push some plastic out. I've verified that it is not due to trouble feeding by providing plenty of slack on the filament and it still winds up happening. I'm not sure what's going on but I've tested at 220, 225 and 230 (abs plastic). I don't think it's getting too hot up at the gear end as the aluminum cooling block is barely warm when this is happening so the only other thing I can think of is that the nozzle is either getting occasionally clogged or the gear is really dirty and not grabbing. I'm leaning towards making another extruder, but I'm not sure what kind to make or what additional parts that I would need to make one. Has anyone else had this sort of problem with this extruder? I ordered some new filament from Amazon, Jet brand. The reviews looked really good so I figured I'd give it a shot and see if they help with my extruding problem, I even got natural to make sure it's not a problem with the dyes in my black ABS causing the problem.

If someone has a particularly helpful website on an extruder I can try with maybe a few printed parts that I might be able to pull off and continue using the parts I've got, please let me know.

Thanks

I just set mine up and was adjusting the vref to the settings found earlier in this thread and mine was clicking also. I had to bump up the vref and then all was well and the clicking went away. What is your vref voltage?

Quote
mikez104

Quote
louspinuso
Ok, so I seem to be having a bit of an issue, randomly, with my extruder. It seems to randomly click and skip and not extrude (as it's clicking because it's not pulling filament in). I'm not sure why it's doing this but it will click a few times then it will extrude again, almost like it got stuck trying to push some plastic out. I've verified that it is not due to trouble feeding by providing plenty of slack on the filament and it still winds up happening. I'm not sure what's going on but I've tested at 220, 225 and 230 (abs plastic). I don't think it's getting too hot up at the gear end as the aluminum cooling block is barely warm when this is happening so the only other thing I can think of is that the nozzle is either getting occasionally clogged or the gear is really dirty and not grabbing. I'm leaning towards making another extruder, but I'm not sure what kind to make or what additional parts that I would need to make one. Has anyone else had this sort of problem with this extruder? I ordered some new filament from Amazon, Jet brand. The reviews looked really good so I figured I'd give it a shot and see if they help with my extruding problem, I even got natural to make sure it's not a problem with the dyes in my black ABS causing the problem.

If someone has a particularly helpful website on an extruder I can try with maybe a few printed parts that I might be able to pull off and continue using the parts I've got, please let me know.

Thanks

I just set mine up and was adjusting the vref to the settings found earlier in this thread and mine was clicking also. I had to bump up the vref and then all was well and the clicking went away. What is your vref voltage?

0.35 How high did you bump yours up?

Quote
louspinuso

0.35 How high did you bump yours up?

.45

Quote
mikez104

Quote
louspinuso

0.35 How high did you bump yours up?

.45

OK I'll give that a try and see if I can print a longish print with out the clicking

Two questions
First, I see lots of ya'll use Pronterface. I haven't seen much about Repetier. Is it like a Ford Chevy thing? I'm new at this so be gentle.
Second, Can someone point me to an alignment or calibration tutorial? I leveled my bed and printed the 20mm calibration cube and it's not so cubish...

Thanks

Quote
mikez104
Two questions
First, I see lots of ya'll use Pronterface. I haven't seen much about Repetier. Is it like a Ford Chevy thing? I'm new at this so be gentle.
Second, Can someone point me to an alignment or calibration tutorial? I leveled my bed and printed the 20mm calibration cube and it's not so cubish...

Thanks

I started using Pronterface first. I have Repetier but I've never actually really played with it. I will once I get as good as I think I can with my current setup, but probably not before that. In the same respect, I used to use Slic3r but now I'm using Cura. I like the options in Cura better but who knows, I may find something else I like more later on down the line.

For question 2, try this [reprap.org]. I've been using a 20mm hollow cube to calibrate and this formula:

new_e_steps = old_e_steps * (20 / distance_actually_moved)

On his page he's using 100 in that formula because he talks about measuring the travel of the carriages when you send an instruction to move an particular axis 100mm. I found that getting my calipers in between 2 things the same way to measure a before and after was a bit of a pain so I decided to just print a 20 mm cube, mark top and front so I know which direction x, y and z are (the side marked top and the opposite side are z, the side marked front and the opposite side are y and the two opposite sides that have no marks are x) and then I measure and run the numbers. I've gotten really close now on 20mm but I think I can do better. I'll have to make a 50 mm hollow cube for my next set of tests, and change the formula to:

new_e_steps = old_e_steps * (50 / distance_actually_moved)

my current configuration.h has the following step settings:

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {79.84, 80, 3836.93, 101}

But as always, YMMV

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louspinuso
Can you post pictures of that Extruder that you got? I'm looking at some different options and I'm not quite sure how I'd hook up an E3D to my printer (everything I find on ebay is just the hot end so I'm not sure what else I need) Thanks.

Sorry I don't have better picture, the machine is working. As you can see I machined a teflon holder to maintain the hotend (in white on the picture). The fan duct is the first part I printed with that new hotend. For the build, I followed the instructions provided at the E3D website : [e3d-online.com]. I still wonder what kind of coldend will I build to replace the fixed direc drive coldend with vgroove bearing.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/29/2014 07:37AM by Zavashier.

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Collective intelligence emerges when a group of people work together effectively. Prusa i3 Folger (A lot of the parts are wrong, boring !)

Quote
Zavashier

Quote
louspinuso
Can you post pictures of that Extruder that you got? I'm looking at some different options and I'm not quite sure how I'd hook up an E3D to my printer (everything I find on ebay is just the hot end so I'm not sure what else I need) Thanks.

Sorry I don't have better picture, the machine is working. As you can see I machined a teflon holder to maintain the hotend (in white on the picture). The fan duct is the first part I printed with that new hotend. For the build, I followed the instructions provided at the E3D website : [e3d-online.com]. I still wonder what kind of coldend will I build to replace the fixed direc drive coldend with vgroove bearing.

Zav,

I'm looking at the E3DV6 myself, and was wondering"

Did you go with 1.75 or 3mm?
Bowden or direct?
I think I'd prefer bowden...but not sure.

Do you have any comparison pics to the final print quality of the new E3D hotend?

Quote
Gannicus

Quote
Zavashier

Quote
louspinuso
Can you post pictures of that Extruder that you got? I'm looking at some different options and I'm not quite sure how I'd hook up an E3D to my printer (everything I find on ebay is just the hot end so I'm not sure what else I need) Thanks.

Sorry I don't have better picture, the machine is working. As you can see I machined a teflon holder to maintain the hotend (in white on the picture). The fan duct is the first part I printed with that new hotend. For the build, I followed the instructions provided at the E3D website : [e3d-online.com]. I still wonder what kind of coldend will I build to replace the fixed direc drive coldend with vgroove bearing.

Zav,

I'm looking at the E3DV6 myself, and was wondering"

Did you go with 1.75 or 3mm?
Bowden or direct?
I think I'd prefer bowden...but not sure.

Do you have any comparison pics to the final print quality of the new E3D hotend?

I can vouch for the E3D V6 it is a superbly engineered hot end and is very easy to extrude with the 1.75mm version has the Bowden push fit coupling integrated as standard though you don't have to use it if you don't want to (Just don't fit the plastic retaining clip but keep it safe for later if you change to Bowden at a later date).

Doug

Quote
Zavashier

Quote
louspinuso
Can you post pictures of that Extruder that you got? I'm looking at some different options and I'm not quite sure how I'd hook up an E3D to my printer (everything I find on ebay is just the hot end so I'm not sure what else I need) Thanks.

Sorry I don't have better picture, the machine is working. As you can see I machined a teflon holder to maintain the hotend (in white on the picture). The fan duct is the first part I printed with that new hotend. For the build, I followed the instructions provided at the E3D website : [e3d-online.com]. I still wonder what kind of coldend will I build to replace the fixed direc drive coldend with vgroove bearing.

Zav that looks like the original direct drive that came with the printer. Are you having no problems with slipping with that setup? I think my problem is either the motor doesn't have the power to push the filament or the filament is getting too crushed at certain points which is one of the reasons I've ordered more filament (which was supposed to be delivered yesterday but I'm still waiting for it). I might try to print everything I need to make a bowden extruder tonight and see if that gearing helps with my skipping on my filament.

Another thing I discovered last night is that the front of my hot bed loses heat very quickly. The front can be about 10 - 12 f lower than the center when I've got it heated up so I think I'm going to push the bed temp up to 120 before my next print and see if that helps with the adhesion towards the outer edges. I'll tell you what, though, the center stays on tight for quite a while until that bed cools so I'm pretty sure that the hairspray is doing it's job right.

To the general public, I've made a couple of simple designs already but my favorite so far is the replacement spike to the candy cane lights that my wife bought for Christmas decorations. It seems that every year we lose another spike or two and then I fight to figure out how to make them stay to keep my wife from buying a whole new set of lights (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Set-of-3-Lighted-Outdoor-Shimmering-Candy-Cane-Christmas-Lawn-Stakes-28/24558386) and this year I've found the answer to my problem. I want to post the models but not sure whether I should go with thingiverse (which a lot of people seem to distrust their TOS) or youmagine or maybe a third option (or maybe all of them). What recommendations and experiences has the community had with these sites?

Thanks for all the help

I haven't been on here for a few weeks, as I'm having no problems with my Folger Tech Currently I'm printing threaded telescope adapters in ABS at 0.1mm (100 micron) layer height, and the results are excellent (these are ~1mm thread pitch and 0.75mm thread pitch, so quite fine).

Once I got my bed levelled and the Z stop in the correct position, I haven't had to touch either at all for a couple of weeks. With the LCD screen I don't need to have my laptop attached any more for printing, which is a real boon. I can load a model from the SD card, start the print, and walk away with a high degree of confidence that I'll return to find a correctly printed result.

I put a layer of engine bay insulation under my hot bed (under the bed, above the Y carriage), and that makes a huge difference to warm up time, and temperature retention of the bed.

Currently I am printing ABS at 235 nozzle, 85 on the bed. I'm using a glue stick to improve adhesion, and I have no lifting at all, even on very long (multi-hour) prints.

The one issue I did have recently is that the hot end block became loose, and needed to be tightened. Oh yes, and the PLA I initially was using absorbed some moisture, which causes some really weird printing symptoms - I'll bake it out in the oven before using it again

Quote
Gannicus
[Zav,

I'm looking at the E3DV6 myself, and was wondering"

Did you go with 1.75 or 3mm?
Bowden or direct?
I think I'd prefer bowden...but not sure.

Do you have any comparison pics to the final print quality of the new E3D hotend?

I will post pictures before and after the E3Dstyle hotend. There's a huge difference. I must look at the scrap bin first. As far 1.75 looks to be a standard for most of the commercial builders, I machined a 1.75mm. I tapped the end to accept a quick fix connector, but I did on the lathe a bronze cone insert instead. It helps to drive non straight filaments. I'm not sure I want a bowden on that machine. I will have to use exotic filaments in a next future. Anyways I hope to keep that hotend for as long as possible, and maybe it may works with a bowden on another machine someday.

Quote
louspinuso
[Zav that looks like the original direct drive that came with the printer. Are you having no problems with slipping with that setup? I think my problem is either the motor doesn't have the power to push the filament or the filament is getting too crushed at certain points which is one of the reasons I've ordered more filament (which was supposed to be delivered yesterday but I'm still waiting for it). I might try to print everything I need to make a bowden extruder tonight and see if that gearing helps with my skipping on my filament.

Another thing I discovered last night is that the front of my hot bed loses heat very quickly. The front can be about 10 - 12 f lower than the center when I've got it heated up so I think I'm going to push the bed temp up to 120 before my next print and see if that helps with the adhesion towards the outer edges. I'll tell you what, though, the center stays on tight for quite a while until that bed cools so I'm pretty sure that the hairspray is doing it's job right.

You're right, it's still the original direct drive. I did encounter some problems with sample filaments I ordered. To be honnest, not most of them failed, but the flexible ones did like thinner ones. You need a good size filament within 1.7-1.8mm. Too thin it slips, too fat it gets grinded. The flexible filament I did not realy understand what was wrong, but it looks like the direct drive did not drive filament as fast as needed. And I some occasions it jammed but the filament was not grinded. Just the extruder lagged. Now I stay with the rolls I own which are within the workable range. I aggree, I had better bonding and surface finish with hairspray rather than ABS juice. Through, you need to have 1 ABS juice for each colour, when airspray stays transparent and works with any filament colour. For your hotbed, mine is warmer in the centre. I use 115°C which is the temperature at the centre while the edges are 110°C. Note I have some insulation under the bed (fire resistant wool).

---

Collective intelligence emerges when a group of people work together effectively. Prusa i3 Folger (A lot of the parts are wrong, boring !)

Error

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/29/2014 07:32PM by HairLikeFrodo.

I've been thinking about buying one of these kits. Do you guys have any pictures of the things you've printed? I'm mostly concerned about banding. I'd like to see how well it prints compared to my old I2.

Hi guys. I have had the folgertech printer for about 2 months now and i was wondering if you could critcise my print. it is one of those 5 mm towre things.
It was printed at 185C,
layer height 0.2mm,
infil 25%
Im wondering if the lines on the outside are caused by the infil inside or vibrations from the printer.
if you need anymore info let me know. Thanks!

Quote
HairLikeFrodo
I've been thinking about buying one of these kits. Do you guys have any pictures of the things you've printed? I'm mostly concerned about banding. I'd like to see how well it prints compared to my old I2.

personaly I have not had any problems with z banding on this kit.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/29/2014 10:01PM by btyder.

Do you have any pictures of what you've printed on the kit so far?

Quote
HairLikeFrodo
Do you have any pictures of what you've printed on the kit so far?

check the pictures up above your last post im having a small problem with vibration i think, but it is a good representation of what it can do.