Marlin Firmware on Folger Tech 2020 Prusa i3

Looking for some help here; I'm trying to change over from the Folger Tech firmware to the standard Marlin build and also trying to learn how to do this Arduino thing. I have some history in C++ and other languages so understand the syntax, etc but am not having any luck on getting the printer to run when I do the upload. Reverting to the FT firmware everything goes back to normal.

I went through the configuration.h file of the Marlin code and changed the settings in accordance with the FT version and left the rest of the code unchanged. I compiled and uploaded successfully then tried to run the printer but no luck. Nothing was working. I reuploaded the FT firmware and everything worked again, tried Marlin once more and still nothing.

Any advice or config.h files available from others who have successfully made the change? I want to get the full functionality of Marlin and add a 12864 LCD panel but main focus is just getting the printer to respond accordingly.


Edit: I went through the Marlin file and cross referenced it with the FT file and noticed I missed the Motherboard definition. Doh! I'm mid print right now so will retry to firmware changeover and report back.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/16/2015 02:22PM by CheopisIV.

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Sigil Pickups || Stunt Monkey Pedals

That solved it... definitely a PEBKAC issue.

Then to get the 12864 panel working I followed Tom in this vid;
[www.youtube.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/16/2015 04:31PM by CheopisIV.

The LCD should be nothing more than uncommenting two (and only two) lines in Configuration.h - one for SD card support, and the other for the Reprap discount graphic controller. Myself, I'd be hard pressed to get a video out of that . . .

- Tim

Quote
tadawson
The LCD should be nothing more than uncommenting two (and only two) lines in Configuration.h - one for SD card support, and the other for the Reprap discount graphic controller. Myself, I'd be hard pressed to get a video out of that . . .

- Tim

He also shows how to change the control to get some better behaviour. Useful info for those of us unfamiliar with Arduino.

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Sigil Pickups || Stunt Monkey Pedals

Hmmmm I found that :
#define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 4
#define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 1

doesn't do anything as the menu already moves 1 item per step, however when trying to move the axis its still moving in increments of 4.

Same if I change my F/R % it always changes in multiples of 4 and occasionally misses an encoder pulse so then it moves 3 and makes it impossible to get back to exactly 100% which drives me nuts. Have any of you been able to solve this?

I think it could be because the Folger Tech supplies Marlin is so out of date.... Which is probably a huge safety risk as well because thermal runaway failsafes are constantly being fine tuned and changed for the better... I am going to make the switch to the most recent firmware this weekend when I install my E3D anyways. All you had to do was update the Config.h file correct?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/16/2015 09:40PM by mel0n.

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My creations/2020 aluminum parts/FolgerTech i3 upgrades [www.thingiverse.com]

I'm actually back to the FT firmware until I can look at the heater tables a bit more. Using the latest Marlin I wasn't able to get a reading on the bed thermistor over 86 degrees, switching back to FT I saw an immediate 10 degree jump in temps before the bed cooled down which shows the thermistor wasn't reading right.

I did a quick look through the tables and have to figure out which set of tables is being used as there are some different numbers for same tables in the two files. This was one of the things necessary o the Makibox that I was able to figure out when switching to the E3D V6 on it so should be able to piece this together some time I hope...

Okies, got the tables changed. Basically I copied table values from the FT Firmware file thermistortables.h and replaced them in the new one. I'm pretty sure it was the value set from line 212-264 (Notepad++) for the 100k Epcos thermistor. I'm currently printing at 102C and my temp gun says 98C so pretty close!

I'm attaching the config.h, pins.h and thermistortables.h in here that are working for me in the latest Marlin on the Folger Tech. The pins.h only has the pin swap as mentioned for making the control go the other way on the 12864 LCD so may not be relevant to anyone else.

Folger's thermistors are type 1, E3D is type 5. Folger's heater (well, what I got) was 40 watt, E3D ships 25 watt, so you have to do a PID tuning,mor at least find values from E3D - they are nowhere close to what is default in Marlin, and I could not get a stable temp until I did the tune . . .

Don't screw with the thermistor tables - just bring over the values in Configuration.h.

- Tim

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/16/2015 10:52PM by tadawson.

The tables worked perfect for the hot end, it's the bed thermistor that's not playing ball with the Marlin values.

I am having a lot of problems getting my E3D working
:/
My LCD just says ERR MAXTEMP and when I connect in repetier it says 0C, I went and tested resistance at the pins and got ~1.4 to 1.6 ohms so I know its not shorted.
I changed my temp sensor to 5 (it was previously set to 6, even though you say default folger is set to 1??):

//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
//
//    1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k 
//                          (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (1k pullup)

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 6

// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10	// (seconds)
#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3       // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_WINDOW     1       // (degC) Window around target to start the recidency timer x degC early.

// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken. 
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5
#define BED_MINTEMP 5

// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 270
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 245
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 245
#define BED_MAXTEMP 200

// If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duty cycle it to reduce the
// average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of
// HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER intervals.
//#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4

// PID settings:
// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.
#define PIDTEMP
#define PID_MAX 256 // limits current to nozzle; 256=full current
#ifdef PIDTEMP
  //#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port. 
  //#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M140 sets the output power from 0 to PID_MAX
  #define PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE 10 // If the temperature difference between the target temperature and the actual temperature
                                  // is more then PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE then the PID will be shut off and the heater will be set to min/max.
  #define PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX 255  //limit for the integral term
  #define K1 0.95 //smoothing factor withing the PID
  #define PID_dT ((16.0 * 8.0)/(F_CPU / 64.0 / 256.0)) //sampling period of the temperature routine

// If you are using a preconfigured hotend then you can use one of the value sets by uncommenting it
// Ultimaker
    #define  DEFAULT_Kp 22.2
    #define  DEFAULT_Ki 1.08  
    #define  DEFAULT_Kd 114  

// Makergear
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kp 7.0
//    #define  DEFAULT_Ki 0.1  
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kd 12  

// Mendel Parts V9 on 12V    
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kp 63.0
//    #define  DEFAULT_Ki 2.25
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kd 440
#endif // PIDTEMP

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My creations/2020 aluminum parts/FolgerTech i3 upgrades [www.thingiverse.com]

Actually, you know *DEFINITELY* that it is shorted . . . .100,000 ohms is what you should see - 1.4 or so is the resistance of your test leads and your thermistor wires. Check the screw on the hot end holding the thermistor in - K suspect that you will find one of the fibreglass sleeves has shifted.

- Tim

Quote
tadawson
Actually, you know *DEFINITELY* that it is shorted . . . .100,000 ohms is what you should see - 1.4 or so is the resistance of your test leads and your thermistor wires. Check the screw on the hot end holding the thermistor in - K suspect that you will find one of the fibreglass sleeves has shifted.

- Tim

Yup [forums.reprap.org] lol I double posted because I didn't want to hijack this thread, but then forgot to come delete this one too late now >.>

I am having a hell of a time getting things to stick with the E3D. I had no problems getting anything to stick usign glue stick on the stock hotend. This thing has been nonstop problems and I am about 12 hours in at this point, was able to get 1 cube printed by pulling the filament off as it came unstuck during the first layer over and over until I got the base of the cude down. I cleaned/reapplied glue stick and have fine tuned my extrusion as much as I can so if it doesnt work this time I am throwing out this hatchbox ABS and trying PLA to make sure its the filament thats being horrible.

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My creations/2020 aluminum parts/FolgerTech i3 upgrades [www.thingiverse.com]

Do you by change have your version of firmware that you created? I recently purchased the RepRap 2020 Prusa i3 from Folger Tech and I am looking to do the same thing. I am having issues with there software and figured this might resolve some of my issues.Any way you can provide your Ardunio sketch. Also, what software do you use for 3D printing. I am just getting started with this stuff and looking to just get pointed in a good direction for starting.

You don't say what issues you are having with the software. Are you sure that this isn't down to unfamiliarity with it and your machine on your part? Unless you know exactly what you are doing with editing, compiling and re-loading firmware there is a serious risk of "bricking" your printer

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/22/2016 10:33AM by Supermec.