Sunhokey Prusa i3 reprap printer shorted, needs new parts

I assembled my diy printer from start to finish and everything went very smoothly, I was able to move the motors around using the lcd controls and do everything else as per normal. I then proceeded to plug in my usb and the usb was sparking, the lcd screen was flashing, and it was just a mess. Shortly after some very small parts behind the usb plug on the mks gen v 1.1 sparked and burned. Now when I turn on the printer nothing works other than the fan. Customer support tickets did not help at all and were very much ignored so under the assumption I am on my own, i decided to find replacements parts. I know the lcd and motherboard are both dead, but not sure if the psu is bad which is where the conflict emerges. I have read two forums here for help: First thread and Second Thread After reading these, I have taken it upon myself to find the following as replacement parts: V 1.3 Motherboard Lcd board and Power Supply .

I would like to spend as little money as possible on this fix and therefore I am asking if anyone can confirm whether or not my PSU is bad. On one of the threads it states that the screws (tightly screwed) acted as a short which couldve been the problem. I took a multimeter and measured a solid 12 volt connection with and without the screws inserted tightly; therefore i am unable to determine whether or not I need to spend the money for a new power supply. Any advice from anyone knowledgable, or experiencing this issue would be very helpful in all areas as this is my first 3d printer and I would really like to dive into the world of 3d printing.

The lcd might still be good. Pluging in the power supply without load and you get 12 volts should mean it should be good.

By transitioning from the mks gen v 1.1 board to the 1.3 one, will I run into any issues or is it a smooth change?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/08/2015 11:44PM by jared248371.

You will have encountered [www.thingiverse.com] which will blow up your drivers and MKS board.

I upgraded to a standard RAMPS board from here [www.ebay.co.uk] the display is better than the one supplied with the printer. Sounds like your power supply is OK but do watch out for those screws.

I have encountered almost the exact issue. Got everything on my Sunhokey 2015 put together, did a lot of test prints, was getting pretty confident and started looking at buying a proximity sensor for auto bed leveling/tramming and poof, plugged in the USB cable, a little spark action then nothing.. Was able to still use the LCD stand alone (12V only) and found that all but one of the stepper drivers fried.

So I went with a Ramps 1.4 - Mega 2650 combo, got it operational, even got my newly acquired proximity sensor bed leveling working like a champ.... Then poof, one morning I plugged in the USB cable and down went the Mega....

Now, here I sit with new replacement parts just scared to death to plug in 12V and USB at the same time. looking through all the threads I have removed the possible offending screws and checked and double checked voltages out of my PSU and spot on 12V..

In some thread somewhere I thought I read to check impedance of the 12V + and - so I did (unplugged of course), I find that I get 250 Ohms across the 12V plus and minus rails of the PSU, every other 12V power supply I pull out of my junk drawer shows K or M Ohms.

Should I be getting 250 Ohms between positive and negative on the 12V PSU rail (again, unplugged of course)?

The screw short must've been my issue seeing how I remember specifically that I tightly screwed the power supply to the acrylic.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/10/2015 10:54AM by jared248371.

My sunhokey Prusa i3 main board has shorted as well, I bought a new board MKS GEN V1.3 to replace the original MKS GEN-2Z V1.1, I can get firmware to load onto the board but the lcd display is blank and printer will do nothing other than run the fan. I am guessing the motor shields are gone as other people reported that usually happends when the main board goes. Is there a quick way to check the shields with a multimeter? also is there firmware available for download specificly ment for the sunhokey prusa i3 with the MKS Gen V1.3 board?

I am currently undergoing that exact same issue, CavemanKevin, have you since found a solution to this? It would be greatly appreciated to know

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/06/2015 01:30PM by jared248371.

So, finally got my new motor drivers, went with DRV8825. Set the trim pots to 0.6 volts ( 0.6 volts x2 for vref = 1.2 amps on 1.5 amp motors ). Opened repetier and connected to the printer. no temperature information from hotend or heatbed. If I try to make it move in any direction it just says command waiting. LCD screen will not light up plugged in one way, if I switch the two cable around it has a backlight but no information on the screen. So, driver or firmware issue?

Reinstalled usb driver uploaded marlin firmware again and got the printer to give temperture information and am now able to move the motors . Not even going to bother with LCD screen at this point. once I get to home position though it will not let me move away. If I tell the Y axis to move in the direction of the endstop it dosn't move but will change the Y axis position in repetier from 0 to however far I tell it to move, say 200mm. I can then move away from the endstop 200mm if retetier says its in position 200, it will move until the position says 0. So i'm guessing there is a setting somewhere for bed position layout?

Fixed endstop issue with Repetier itself in printer information, Min max printbed settings. LCD display is simply not enabled in basic firmware, that was an easy fix, just uncomment the right one and it works fine now. So I do have one issue remaining, only one Z axis motor is moving, so i'm guessing there is another setting in the firmware for duel Z axis motors? Anyone know where that is?

Both motors run from the same driver, so the firmware only sees one motor. Probably a loose connector.

#define Z_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS

Found it under configure_adv tab. All I had to do was uncomment it and both motors move together now. Z motors just keep going after hitting the endstop though so somethings still not right.

Is there any way you can send me your arduino code for your printer? I've been running into a lot of issues getting the firmware to compile properly. Thanks

So this is my setup so far, everything seems to be working now. When I got new stepper drivers ( 1/ 32 step instead of the standard 1/16), I just put them on the board but did not change the jumper settings, so i'm assuming its still running as 1/16 drivers. If so the numbers for steps per mm should be pretty close. My last issue with the Z endstop not working correctly was simply that I had the Z min endstop plugged into the Z max slot on the board. So hopefully this will be a good starting point for you Jared.