I have an aluminum build plate with a silicone heater. The silicone heater keeps burning things up on the circuit board from too much power draw, so I am going to replace it. Since I have print bite on the aluminum, I was going to attach an MK2 PCB heatbed to it. Would I attach it with heat transfer tape? Or is there some other method to follow?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/02/2017 10:45PM by mlaustin66.

that would be a massive step backwards..... MK2 PCB heatbed take 30+ minutes to get to 100c

Consider an external mosfet driver if its a DC heated bed

eg [www.aliexpress.com]

NB there is no fuse protection in these devices.. its probably a good idea to put an inline fuse in the cable that powers these boards.
There is however opto isolation to protect the board its connected to.

I have a smootieboard clone, so the mosfets are pretty huge. It still managed to burn out the terminal block and shut down the board. Luckily the mosfet doesn't look blown. So an external mosfet will probably do little. A RAMPS board wasn't so kind, and I ended up blowing about 3 of them which made me switch.

The other option is an mk3 heatbed. Then I need to buy another print bite surface. Or I can try and find a silicone heater that has less wattage. Thoughts?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/03/2017 02:40AM by mlaustin66.

try using max_pwm on your bed temperaturecontrol module to cap the duty cycle for the bed. His will in effect reduce the maximum power and you may well find you will get away without changing anything

The problem isn't the actual Mosfet, but the terminal blocks you are melting can't handle the current. An external Mosfet allows you to bypass running the high current through the board, avoiding the terminal blocks that can't handle it.