[sourceforge.net]

Anyone interested?
I'm using Alibre but I can read and write quite a number of other parametric CAD-formats to design this.
Rods and shoulder-pad as well as nuts and bolts will be the only non-printed parts.
If things run well we may also do a follow-focus.




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/02/2011 04:21AM by MarcusWolschon.

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I've thinked about that some time ago (the last time that I been here it was some weeks ago), and it's nice to see someone else with the same idea.
Unfortunally, I haven't even started my RepRap, and my PC it's temporary broken, so I can just help with words .

But if the project goes well, I coud start my Mendel so I can record with my 550D

I hope that this project goes far,
Franco


PS: Sorry for my bad english, I'm Brazilian.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/22/2011 03:30PM by Francoo.

See the sourceforge-wiki page for the current status.
I already started doing this alone and hope to have
a basic rod-support next weekend.
The go on from there.

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Just curiosity, but what camera do you use?

Panasonic GH-1 with hacked Firmware and mostly manual Canon FD lenses.
Also an FZ100 together with the GH-1 to have a second view or for 3D.
I'm using these to learn how to use them and plan to go to APS-C, full 35mm
or stay at m4/3 but with a GH-2 around Christmas this year.
Maybe a Canon 60D or the upcoming 5D mark III./6D.
The limiting factor seems to be that I really really want to still have an adjustable
display as it's extremely nice when filming.

My cameras and optics:
[userapps.sourceforge.net]

First thing will be a simple straight rig, then an offset rig and a simple follow focus.
Then I MAY go for a stereo-rig and/or a more complex follow-focus.

I'm not sure if a stereo-shoulder rig can work (a stereo-follow-focus would be cool)
but it may just work. The cameras are very small and lightweight compared to
APS-C, APS-M and full-format cameras. Lenses are smaller and more lightweight too.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/02/2011 04:24AM by MarcusWolschon.

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An idea for those that don't want to buy any DSLR or 4/3 it would be a 35mm adapter, they're very simples, they basically are a macro lens, a focusing screen (those you have to buy, but the chineses guys have alot of these cheaply) and a tube w/ bayonet. That with any video camera (a common camcoder, webcam, etc) and a DSLR lens (depending on the bayonet/screw that you make, M42 lens are CHEAP) can provide a "good" (but not exellent) video, with a small DoF (like 35mm cameras) and low price (the adapter DIY custs about 35 dollars everything, incluiding focusing screen).
Lets try to gather here some ideas about video/photography. (or we could create another topic). If some idea it's good enough (like the DSLR video rig) we could start developing it in another topic, so we do not pollute this topic.

PS: Can't we create with common lens (macro filter lens type) a LCD viewfinder for DSLR? You haven't that problem, as it's 4/3, but DSLR user can't use the common viewfinder on it, so I think we could at least make a "hood" for it.

Here is my current status of the unfinished rig-design.
I already printed 1 end-piece and 2 T-connectors
and will post the design on thingiverse once I printed
it and know it works.
I plan this to be next weekend.

(I usually print something, then adjust, print again,...
until I am satisfied with it before posting it.)


The handles are based on my steadycam-handle, thus
I know it will fix bicycle-handles just fine. (I propose cork+rubber
bicycle handles.)

3 quite universal connectors hold the camera-plate.
The hole in the camera-plate is for a Calumet CALK7010
to use manfrotto quick-release plates.
Holes are for the 1/4" versions. One it is finished I'll also
post 3/4" versions of the design.
All nut-holes are currently for M5 nuts.

I plan to add a lens-holder to attach to these universal connectors.
For different shoulder-pads (mine attaches to the camera-plate from
below) and counter-weights you'll have to design something yourself.
When this rig is finised I'll update it into an offset rig (camera more to the left)
and see about a simple follow-focus.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/02/2011 04:24AM by MarcusWolschon.

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Nice ^^
I just buyed the Thermal Compound for my PC, so, 1 step closer to give a "real" help .

Did you looked at this guy, he made some very simple HDSLR jag and he has some interessant ideas/designs, like the desing called Field Runner, that has the handle closer and easier to move arround, etc. Another idea it's the extended handle, that it will help alot in long recordings.
My dream in a DSLR video rig it would be the handle bars like a monopod, that is, with two ball-heads (on the main rod and on the handle) and an adjustable tube, that would be perfect.

Again, sorry for my bad english ^^. Someday I'll write better.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/22/2011 09:29PM by Francoo.

Yes, I know the stuff from Jag35.
Even though 15mm rods are harder to get then standard 12mm and 16mm
and 60mm center-to-center spacing is sub-optimal for the quick-releases I'm using
I decided to stay with these measurements to be compatible with commercial
parts.
So you can combine printed and purchased parts.
Not only from Jag35 but from all other rod systems I know too.

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I changed the way I fasten the rods to trapped M5 A2 nuts this morning.
(not on all parts yet)

What do you think?

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Francoo, why do you think you need a working 3d printer to help DESIGN something?
Ideas, feedback, drawings and maybe a 30 day trial if a CAD program are all that Is needed.
Feedback is important to keep going.

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Cool wireless follow focus on Thingiverse:
[www.thingiverse.com]
I'll probably design only a simple one and use that one later. It looks so much better then what I had in mind.

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I started a similar project a few months ago. It's been on pause while I work on building my Prusa Mendel, but after my printer is complete I'm planning on resuming this project.

I have a working shoulder mount setup, and have designed but not yet printed a follow focus module.

Check out my work at https://github.com/ewaters/DSLR-Video-Rig.

I'd love to collaborate with others.

Regards,
Eric Waters

MarcusWolschon Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I changed the way I fasten the rods to trapped M5
> A2 nuts this morning.
> (not on all parts yet)
>
> What do you think?

The change I started this morning is complete.
(see attached 3d-pdf and image)
It should be easier to adjust the rig now and it should be more stable with the new fastening-schema.

Any comments?
Ways to improve this before wasting plastic and printer time on a suboptimal design?

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ewaters Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Check out my work at
> [github.com].

The mounting between primary and secondary rod-pair
looks like it has no support against turning.
Is there something I can't see in the rendering or could we improve there?

> I'd love to collaborate with others.

Cool!
Let's combine your offset with my rig and the wireless follow-focus from Thingiverse.

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The mounting is weak but if you double up the brackets it makes it pretty stable. Here are some pics of the rig constructed to date: [www.flickr.com]

ewaters Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The mounting is weak but if you double up the
> brackets it makes it pretty stable.

In these photos it looks much better.
You seem to be using no quick-release, is that correct?
What do you think is the optimal distance between
the 2 rod-systems horizontal and vertial?
Or should at least the horizontal part be adjustable?

Can your SCAD export any of the usual volumetric formats
like STEP, IGES or something?
I'm using Alibre here.
(can't recomment it after their license-change
but my old version is still pretty feature-complete.)

Marcus

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OpenSCAD exports mainly to STL but also supports OFF and DXF (the latter probably not being useful).

I haven't yet figured out the optimal distance of of the lower rails from the higher. The design is parameterized, so you can adjust it easily as a global variable (lower_rails_x_offset and lower_rails_y_offset). I won't be able to tweek it until the shoulder strap bracket is fully designed. I have an idea of what I want but I haven't yet committed it to github. I don't think the distance needs to be adjustable in a part, since it's easy to print many different parts and keep them around for different configurations and distances (the parameterized design makes this trivial).

Quick release will probably be added later; using nuts and bolts is easier than worrying about the quick release for now.

Eric

Here are my design files and STL-export.
[www.thingiverse.com]

I did not yet print all parts but hope to do so this weekend.
Then I'll probably do a lot of updates to and test-prints to make things fit perfectly.


I'm using a ready-made quick-release for about 20eur.
It can be fixed with a 1/4" or 3/4" bolt (interchangably).
Don't worry, that's the only thing that's not metric in my design.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/23/2011 04:49PM by MarcusWolschon.

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"Object File Format (.off) files are used to represent the geometry of a model by specifying the polygons of the model's surface."
I don't think that will be useful here as it's triangles and not volumetric or even parametric.
Guess I'll have to design my own just to have it in the same file format as the other parts.
(Thankfully it's not a complicated part.)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/26/2011 04:46PM by MarcusWolschon.

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The printer is working all day already and a good number of parts are already printed.
I made quite a number of small improvements and may continue to do so until tomorrow.
Looks very good and usable.


Photos: [picasaweb.google.com]
Blog and more photos: [marcuswolschon.blogspot.com]

I don't think I'll have and time left this weekend to do follow-focus and offset-DSLR-rig.
Printing and assembling the basic rig just took too long. This these 2 will have to wait
until next weekend.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 03/26/2011 04:45PM by MarcusWolschon.

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ewaters: I need serious help with my T-connectors.

I adjusted and modified them about a dozen times but they still either don't grip nearly fast enough or simply break.
The side where the layers are orthogonal to the 15mm rod are fine but the other side is never strong enough.
(I guess I'll do a quick hack by simply drilling a hole through them and through the rod but that's just because
I'm running out of weekend already.)

I ran out of time this weekend and put M5 bolts through the less stable part of the T-adapters and through their rods.
That should work well enough, so I can use it this week and update the design next weekend with whatever I
learned when actually using the rig.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/27/2011 01:30PM by MarcusWolschon.

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Without any help I resolved to offering T-connectors with bolts that go THROUGH the 15mm rods.
At least on one of the 2 sides.
That's NOT how a rod-system is supposed to work but at least it does work.

I really need help here!

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Heh, sorry for not offering any help. Bolts that go through the rods? That doesn't sound right. I made a variation of this design (http://vimeo.com/10432755) and found that the bolts crushed the rods. I'll spend some time this evening going over your work. I try and find some ways to help. That's a really interesting shoulder mount attachment you've got; what is that?

ewaters Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Heh, sorry for not offering any help. Bolts that
> go through the rods? That doesn't sound right.

Indeed.
It was just a quick fix.

> I made a variation of this design
> (http://vimeo.com/10432755) and found that the
> bolts crushed the rods.

It works better of you don't press a flat surface to a round
rod so that the rod has no where to move but to go flat.
With a round connector it works very well.

I suggest good quality bicycle handles on the bars.
I use rubber+cork ones and they are extremely comfortable.

Contrary to your design I tried to stay compatible
with 15mmx60mm industry standard rod-systems, so
one can combine the design with commercial
shoulder-pads, follow focus, bard doors,...


> I'll spend some time this
> evening going over your work. I try and find some
> ways to help.

That would be great.
The issue is delamination if the rod is not going along the
normal axis of the print-plane.
If I make it thicker or longer, the leverage increases and it
will break even earlier. If I make it thinner, it is too thin to
take any torque.
For the handles I could have the rod end inside the T-connector.
But that does not help with the T-connectors at the front of the main rails.

It MAY be an option to have 2 clamps on the problematic rods.
I did not evaluate that yet.

> That's a really interesting
> shoulder mount attachment you've got; what is
> that?

It's a "Seagull".
About 40-60eur plastic shoulder-rig.
[www.enjoyyourcamera.com]
(Being a 15mmx60mm rig you can of cause use any other means of shoulder-pad or
even none at all with the design.)
It has the advantage of being a) cheap and b) staying on your shoulder hands free
if needed. I find that very comforting from the standpoint of
safety (expensive camera and optics) and usability (quickly manipulate something with both hands).
The Seagull itself is not good. It's just a shoulder-support. Not a stabilizer at all.
If you clamp it down to your chest as it's supposed to be used every breath will shake
the camera.

You can find all about it on my project page
[sourceforge.net]
There I also documented my intent and
what commercial rigs I looked at before starting the design process.

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I'm currently printing a first prototype for a gearless follow focus
similar to
[www.dvxuser.com]

Marcus

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ewaters:
I guess some hinge-mechanism where the ABS does not have to bend could work.
Either using 3mm ABS-feed or a long M4 bolt as an axis.
My 15mm rods already have holes now, so I don't need it but it would be
great for others.

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First prototype of an improvised, gearless follow focus is done:

[marcuswolschon.blogspot.com]

(I got the idea from
[www.dvxuser.com] )

Currently printing an improved version

PS:
I got back and attached some photos to the earlier posts.





Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/02/2011 04:25AM by MarcusWolschon.

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The improved version of the follow focus is done.

Blog post: [marcuswolschon.blogspot.com]
photos: [picasaweb.google.com]#

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And here is a counter-weight for this rod-system:

[www.thingiverse.com]

fresh from the printer.
Compatible with industry standard rigs and industry standard weights you can get at any corner.

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