On the topic of boards, I fall somewhere in the middle. I am currently running a RAMPS/Mega setup, but that's only because I had a spare sitting in my box of printer parts. I'll likely be upgrading to a Smothieboard or a Duet (haven't decided which one yet). I'll probably take that plunge once I have a few other things finished, like my heated bed and my enclosure sides. As for the extruder's,by TheJones - General
Are you're steppers backward? Also, can your computer see the arduino when you plug in tbe USB?by TheJones - General
Endstops connect to the yellow and black pins (top and middle). Also, make sure that you have the wires connected to the "common" and "N.C." blades of the micro-switch. That's how the marlin firmware is setup by default. Edit: That is true for standard micro-switches. Sorry, I misread your message at first. For the mag switches in the CubeX, you will use the same pins (yellow and black), butby TheJones - General
Hey DD, I just checked my stock hotends and they are reading 185k ohms and 190k ohms across the thermistor, with no continuity to the body. I'm not using them, and if you want them I can mail them to you. One of them has that slight issue with the heater wire insulation, but that is easily remedied. Just let me know. In other news, I got my printer up an running the other day. I rewired itby TheJones - General
QuoteDancook I'm having trouble configuring the stepper directions and endstops... trying to figure out M code and G code... Sorry I can't help more, I've never used Redeem. About the best thing I can tell you is to start watching every YouTube video you can on the subject. Your first searches might not show the video you need, but after a few videos you will start seeing related videos in yourby TheJones - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist I think you'll get better repeatability if you remove the lever from the microswitch. I was thinking that too. The first switch I grabbed out of my box-o-parts had an even longer lever on it, and I threw it back in favor of the roller because it deflected less. Once it's up and running I may end up pulling the lever off of one completely, if it will reach. It's an easyby TheJones - General
QuoteDancook I'm having a lot of issues with this Replicape controller in my printer... there's not much support for it, so it was probably a bad idea for my first attempt at building my own. I wish I would have gotten a smoothieboard instead. You can always just buy a cheap RAMPS setup, there is loads of support out there for those things. They aren't the best boards in the world, but they workby TheJones - General
More progress this evening. I'm working on the wiring right now, which will likely be temporary until I get my upper enclosure built. Here is my solution for the z limit switch. I re-purposed a piece of acrylic that I had stripped off earlier, and used the waste bin height adjuster as a set screw. It seems pretty solid. It will probably stay like this until I replace that back plate, them Iby TheJones - General
Fair enough. I always thought that "coreXY" referred to the gantry style x/y system. I see the difference now though. Thanks for the info.by TheJones - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Looks great, but what is the purpose of the Bowden tube connector at the input to the extruder? To connect a filament guide/strain relief tube from the spool to the extruder. That way, the filament doesn't resist the movement of the carriage, as it zips around. Kind of like the the tubes that originally went to the filament cartridges, but more like this.by TheJones - General
Alright, so as promised, I modified my extruder to have a fully supported filament path. This should help with printing flexibles. Check out the Tom's review of the Flexion extruder, it's the same idea. I'll let you know how it works out once I get everything up and running. But at the very least, it don't see how it can hurt performance, and it gives me a way to make sure that both the hotendsby TheJones - General
QuoteKasahabo I have been following this thread with great interest and am wanting to follow your examples. I do have a question. The Cube X Duo isn't always available but I do sometimes see the Cube Pro Duo. The lower prices are in line with what you are paying for the Cube X. Do any of you know the difference between the two? Would I have to re invent what has already been accomplished herby TheJones - General
Also, you may want to check this thread out. A whole bunch of us are buying these super solid coreXY machines on ebay for around $300 (because they've been discontinued) and putting open source controllers in them. My overall cost has been under $550, and I've got all the parts that I need to make it a dual extruder machine with a 300x300 bed. I just need to carve out the time finish buildby TheJones - General
QuoteKDog I think it will be a disaster for you to buy the parts and assemble the kit yourself. You will have almost zero support and your frustration level will go through the roof. A kit will be great for you especially if this is your first time getting into 3d printing. Take a look at the prusa i3 kits on the prusa website. They are well made and are getting great reviews. This is also goby TheJones - General
QuoteRlewisrlou666 Why buy a kit just get a parts list and build a DIY you can build it the size you want and you can cheap out on some things and use that money to buy better other parts. I second this idea. You can buy a laser cut/water jet i3 frame on ebay, a RAMBo-mini controler, and a Prusa Mk2 upgrade kit (which comes with a real E3D V6, a self leveling heated system, and new high qualiby TheJones - General
QuoteDancook I don't plan to use the original extruders, but I honestly can't see a reason to keep them... I was trying to find a way to use them as bowens. Why not just clamp a bowden fitting where the hotend used to go? Seems pretty straightforward to me. Quotethe_digital_dentist As you can tell, I like reusing the existing cables as much as possible. Are you planing on using the stockby TheJones - General
My apologies to DGF, but it wasn't until Dancook stated asking about plates that I remembered where I ordered the piece for my bed. These guys will cut just about any piece you want, and they aren't too outrageous on price.by TheJones - General
Wow, lots of replies while i was at work. So it's a 12v 300x300 bed, and I'm not sure what the terminals are rated at because I installed them almost 2 years ago, but they are clearly what went wrong. The terminal blocks seemed like a good idea for serviceability, and they are on all of the major wire runs. I'll probably leave them for the motors, but I won't be using them for the heater aby TheJones - General
The bed itself is fine, but the wiring SERIOUSLY overheated for some reason. It was super strange though, because it didn't burn the 10A fuse that was in there, the wires and terminal just stated melting. And I was only running it at 55c while printing some larger PLA parts. I saw little wisps of smoke that I though I was imagining at first, until I looked a bit close, and found this. Looby TheJones - General
Oh, and as for where to get aluminum, I don't know of a place where you'd get a 20mm piece of round stock that doesn't sell in bulk. It's kind of a think piece, for aluminum rod. You might get lucky at home depot, but I'm not sure.by TheJones - General
I wouldn't use the stock power brick if I were you. It's 15v, and RAMPS boards recommend a max of 12v.by TheJones - General
So, I modified my E3D heatsinks to fit the CubeX. I basically hacked off the top of the stock heatsink and used some brazing rod to attach it to the top of the E3D. I did the whole thing using really basic tools. Here are some pictures (brace yourself, it's basically a full write-up). First, I cut the stock heatsink using a hacksaw blade. This is really easy with a drill. you just chuck up the pby TheJones - General
That's not bad, looks pretty solid. But I don't really want to pay $50 to attach. I was actually thinking of doing something similar. It's not hard to "machine" aluminum in a drill press. Heck, you can probably even do it with a cordless drill if you're careful and patient. I think what I am actually going to end up doing will be a $0 solutions using parts of the old hotends. I'll probably tryby TheJones - General
Well, if he kept everything else stock, and just bought a 24v power supply, that's easily under $200. I doubt he will, but a conversion can definitely be done for $200 or less. If you were really inclined to do this cheaply, you could probably get away with just a Chinese Arduino/RAMPS knockoff kit for around $30, if you're willing to roll the dice. This can be done super cheap. Or you canby TheJones - General
QuoteDaGameFace Hey, are these endstops something we can reuse? I only have experience with tradition endstop buttons. Almost forgot about this. I just checked the magnetic endstops with a multimeter, and they read continuity when triggered. So I think they should work if you want to try them. Mine were triggering when the magnet got any closer than 7mm. As for the Z, it is on the carriage,by TheJones - General
QuoteDaGameFace Have either of you decided on a new controller for it? You going to reuse the power supply? Where will the rolls of filament be stored? Is an e3d v6 even tall enough to replace the oem hotend? I am probably just going to use the extra Arduino+RAMPS board running DRV8825 drivers that I have it laying around, it should do fine and I can upgrade later, if I care. I also have a pileby TheJones - General
There is nothing wrong with zip-ties, they hold things just fine. Like you said, the bracket aligns itself with the grooves, so they're really just holding it to the bars. My hotends finally arrived. I'll probably be messing with them throughout the week. I'll post an update when I've decided how I'm going to mount them.by TheJones - General
Mine came apart fairly easily, and you can see how far it goes in here: Also, here is the place I was talking about, with exposed wires near the metal of the hotend. Also, my nozzles don't look as nice as yours.by TheJones - General
I tore into the cubex today, and found a couple interesting things. I actually like the extruder more than I thought I would, once I got my hands on it. The drive wheel engages nicely, and the whole things feels really solid. I have a few ideas for improvements, and I'll post more about them when my new hotends arrive. Speaking of hotends, I found one bothersome thing, and one thing that was vby TheJones - General
I was actually thinking about keeping the stock hotends around and drilling put the tips to make them high flow, and maybe make this thing into a high-speed low-res machine for making mechanicals parts and large scale objects. But for now I'm just going with the V6's, it works well on my other machine, and having parts commonality is nice. Now that I think about it though, maybe I'll cut theby TheJones - General