QuoteAbuMaia I think the peanut butter "tip" was a prank. I just peeled off a well-used PEI film from my magnetic print surface, and applied a layer of peanut butter to the remaining residue, and left it overnight in an old spool baggie. At least 17 hours later, I took it out and scraped off the peanut butter, to find all of the adhesive residue still on the metal sheet. It literally took none ofby MightyMouth - General
QuoteRoxy You people are making things much more difficult than you need to. 3M 468MP (or 3M 200MP) adhesive is easily removed. You just take a blob of Peanut Butter (Creamy... Not Chunky!) and smear a thin layer across the surface to be cleaned. Try to get a 1/16" layer across the entire sheet. Then just wait over night and use a squidgy to remove the peanut butter. And then soap andby MightyMouth - General
Decided I am going to keep it, it's such a good printer its a shame to mess with it and I'll never get what I would need to out of it.by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
I think $900 is optimistic, I mean I know what it cost and what it should be worth but its used and with the cheap Chinese crap, it's hard to justify. I think if I could get £600 or $750 I would sell it.by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
I am thinking about selling my printer for something smaller. I don't really have the room for it and so keep it in the garage but that means I cannot print in the winter unless I put a space heater in there for a couple hours before I want to print. I have a Think3dprint3d Kossel XL inspired by DC42's large Kossel build. It is basically the same as Think3dPrint3d's Mini Kossel but bigger and witby MightyMouth - Delta Machines
Thanks David, I will give that a go. If the Tool offset is not taken into account what would the result look like, Would the nozzle wind up crashing into the bed on print or would it wind up much too high?by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
Thanks David, My M305 for the bed looks like this. M305 P0 T100000 B3950 R4700 H-20 L0 the values are what were specified and pre-set by Roland at T3P3, I don't know how to tell if they are correct. Is there something I can do to verify? It may just be that I am using the glass bed with PrintBite on top which if so is fine, I was just wondering if there was something I could do to compensate.by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
I have been happily using my Kossel XL Delta for nearly a year now and it works great but only because I know how it behaves. For instance, I have calibrated the bed temperature at ambient temperature but when I heat it up the actual temperature is 20 - 30 degrees cooler than the set temperature. So if I want to print PLA which sticks to my Printbite at 70c I have to set the bed to 90c, for PETby MightyMouth - Delta Machines
QuoteGRAYWOLF QuoteDaveOB Once you have the settings just right, and after using it for only a few prints, you'll be wondering how you ever printed without it. This stuff is a total game-changer for printing. I used almost exclusively ABS for over a year and every single print just stuck and it worked as it should every time. This was the best money I ever spent for my printer. My current settby MightyMouth - General
It's all about getting it dialled in, Temperature, Nozzle Height and Extrusion Settings are all important, but for me (once my printer was set up right) Printbite has been the best 3D Printing purchase I have made other than the printer itself.by MightyMouth - General
Quotenebbian How are you guys combating the lower wall cave in you get with a high bed temperature when printing ABS? I know that I need to have my bed surface at 90 degrees or lower to prevent this effect from happening (calibrated with thermocouple) on my printer with a PEI build surface. If I have it set to 95 or higher then the lower wall cave in effect starts happening. I normally printby MightyMouth - General
The thing is there is a certain temperature around 120c where the adhesion skyrockets. when you hit that point you simply cannot remove the part, I have a print going at the moment which is very wide and flat and as you can see isnt warping at all. I couldnt pry this off the bed with a chisel without damaging the surface.by MightyMouth - General
I found that if the print surface is not at 120c or above the ABS does not stick well but above 120 it really sticks. I actually have to set my printbed to 155c to get the surface to 120c. I suggest turning up your bed in 5 degree increments until the abs stick (and it will).by MightyMouth - General
Thanks, I assumed that was correct but wanted to be sure, I just need the screws to mount the extruder to the motor, I already have everything else put together.by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
DC42, can you advise what length crews I need to attach the extruder to the motor? Is it the same as for the ormerod extruder, M3x12mm countersunk socket screws, would these ones do?by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
I just want to relay my experience with PrintBite. Initially I had a few issues being unable to get stuff to stick but Mutley3D was very helpful and in the end it turned out I simply didn't have my bed at the suggest temperature for the material I was using. I did set the bed to the correct temperature but the surface wasn't reaching that temperature, Cranking the heat up a bit solved all the issby MightyMouth - General
I want to be clear, I think the Panel Due is fantastic and will be a part of my build in the future but I think if you are on a budget like I am then the important thing is an accurate build, the niceties can wait.by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
Great thanks for the fast reply.by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
DC42, how did you attach the Ormerod extruder to your printer? It looks as though it was made to clip on the Ormerod.by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
Well it is the T3P3 maxi kossel which I believe was based on your upgrades. I have reduced the radius to 145 which seems to have done the trick.by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
They are 355mm on the Robotdigg metal corners.by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
As near as I can tell using a piece of paper on its side on the bed and marking the angle of the arms then using a protractor they are very nearly exactly 20 degrees when opposite the towers. The arms are 350mm at the centre of the traxxas jointsby MightyMouth - Delta Machines
I will measure them when I get home.by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
I know you have already ordered the printer but I don't personally see the need for the panel due, I preferred to spend the extra on the aluminium robotdigg corners. The web interface is great as long as your printer is near your PC or you have a laptop to put near your printer.by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
Ok so I think I can change the Bed.g file to probe at 145 rather than 150 using dc42's bed.g file generator but I suspect I also need to change the bed radius in the Config.g file. I don't mind losing 10mm of print radius if it stops the arms hitting as I won't be printing that big any time soon and hopefully once I upgrade to ball and socket arms the issue will be gone. Can anyone confirm the aby MightyMouth - Delta Machines
As the title says, when I am calibrating my Kossel my traxxas ends are hitting either the effector or the carriages briefly while travelling between probe points at the outer edge of the bed. Can I change a setting in the config to prevent this? Reduce the bed radius maybe?by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
Great, the more the better. Thanksby MightyMouth - Delta Machines
Thanks, that was what I was looking for.by MightyMouth - Delta Machines
Looking for links to projects and/or cad files. Cannot find anything in forums but I know I have seen posts before, I don't know the correct search terms I think.by MightyMouth - Delta Machines