I'm having a minor problem with the piezo sensor - fairly certain it is a configuration issue. electronics: Duet Wifi pcb version 2.x ( just received maybe a week ago ) single piezo disk M119 from the controller shows not triggered before I start the Z home. Without triggering the probe I get a sensor value of 333. Manually tapping the bed against the nozzle I see the blue light nice and briby bilsch - General
I have used BuildTak for a while now. I found similar results but only in these contexts print to close to the surface flexible pla temps too high, both bed and hot end I also found that after printing a few times in an area this super adhesion would go away and would stick pretty well but also come off the plate pretty easily. I found that once I got a handle on how to print on the buildtak itby bilsch - Printing
Hmmm, other than maybe tinkering with the current to the stepper, sounds like you have done the debugging I would do. Can you check to see if you are getting consistent traction on the filament? Is it grinding? How is the temperature on the hot end - are there lots of fluctuations? What happens if you crank it up or down ( crank as in like 2-10C of spec ) I found that if I was not putting enouby bilsch - Printing
I had a similar issue I deleted the photos from my dropbox account a while back, some of the photos are in the form natively. Post details about your setup. What hot end, controller, extrusion steps, extruder, slicer settings ( mainly extrusion multiplier and filament diameter ). Also, go read over A lot of people were telling me in the thread that it could be a slicer error/issue. It was noby bilsch - Printing
I thought that with delta printers 0 is actually the very top and what ever the max z is all the way down on the plate? Did the vendor give you any instructions on the firmware configuration or was it supposed to be all set up/ready to print?by bilsch - Printing
what infill? I have had issues with low infill % and getting good solid tops. Basically, do you see any filament dripping down into the void? Try printing with 20-25% infill to see if it goes away. Also have you done bridging calibration yet? The other perimeters look really nice/smooth.by bilsch - Printing
So far, printing in ABS on the e3d is just great. I can't compare it as this is my first hot end/printer but I've never had a jam or any other kind of problem. In the end, I may just not print in PLA if there is this much maint involved Call me lazy, but it just seems that all of this work for printing in one material vs a lot less maint - kinda a no brainer Having sad that, I've got some cleby bilsch - Printing
So, I found this thread a very interesting read - Describes very similar the problem I'm having printing pla on my e3d hot end. I'm going to print up a new fan mount and get some active cooling on the heat break shaft and reduce my retraction a good bit. I have been wondering if this is the problem for a while but was not convinced until reading that post. In case it helps anyoneby bilsch - Printing
Sorry for going dark for so long. Crazy busy. So, I was able to play with the temps a bit and get further along but no matter how low I went I would still jam up. That or it was not hot enough to bond the layers So, I got a new roll of pla filament and printed off the same parts ( different temps and accounted for the thickness ). I had no trouble at all with the matterhackers green - at leastby bilsch - Printing
Quotebilsch Quotevreihen Your print temperature is way too high for PLA! Back it down to 185-195C, and the E3D will print PLA just fine..... I'll give that temp a shot. I was going by the makerbot printing temps. Yea, printing at 190 made a pretty big difference. I may even try a little lower. 230 was *way* too high! Thanks!by bilsch - Printing
Quotevreihen Your print temperature is way too high for PLA! Back it down to 185-195C, and the E3D will print PLA just fine..... I'll give that temp a shot. I was going by the makerbot printing temps.by bilsch - Printing
Curious if anyone has seen this kind of problem. I've been printing in abs just fine for a while now, gone through 2 2lb spools without a single jam. Other than finding the right temp issues, abs is imo super easy and reliable ( minus peeling from the bed at times ) I recently bought a 2lb spool of makerbot green ( just what they had at the local store, I don't actually use a makerbot ). I wasby bilsch - Printing
Have you set the z axis steps in configuration.h or in eeprom? I had the same problem with my motors and this fixed it. Note, these are for my printer - you will have to change them ( refer to that calculator ) #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100,100,2560,84.30} #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {120,120,150,80} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E defaulby bilsch - Printing
What kind of configuration have you done for Marlin? have you configured the steps per revolution? is a great resource. The other resource I got a lot of help from is the calibration too First though, try uploading your gcode here: You also have to configure slic3r a bit. Hope this helps!by bilsch - Printing
Looking at the gcode output from kisslicer, I don't see M82 or M83. Comparing the start of the output from slic3r I see M82 so that is very likely the problem thanks! M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion QuoteSublime It is most likely the firmware selection is set to relative E in Kisslicer and your actual firmware is set to absolute E. So either add M84 to the start code in Kisslicer toby bilsch - Experimental
Has anyone using kisslicer had issues with the extruder steps? I get x y and z movement but the extruder steps are barely noticeable. I can print just fine using repetier host and slic3r. I think I got all of the configurations in kisslicer set properlyby bilsch - Experimental
I've been working on tuning up my printer. One of the changes I have made is to adjust ( down ) the current being sent to the steppers. This resulted in a much quieter sound from the steppers. May want to give that a try. Quotejhenak Ok, I finally found out what my problem was. I didn't have a fan plugged in to FAN_PIN but it was defined as pin 6. I stumbled upon this after finding out thatby bilsch - Printing
madscifi, No I have not changed the stepper driver chips. I don't even know that I could - ramps 1.4, only have jumpers for 1/4, 1/8, 1/16 ( ). I think I'd have to get a smoothie board to go 1/32 or 1/64 So, changing the e steps until the bumps were forming a vertical pattern. Then I started adjusting the pot while printing a 20x20x100 hollow cube ( made it high so I could test more changes quby bilsch - Printing
Well, that was it - funky pattern is gone! Quotebilsch The guy I purchased the printed parts found a very interesting link on a solidoodle forum and it looks like there is another experiencing very similar effects to what I am. Sadly, I don't think I can get 1/32 on a ramps 1.4 board - anyone know if otherwise?by bilsch - Printing
Ok, so now for the long list 'o stuff I've been trying over the past few weeks! I thought maybe the issue was with vibration caused by a slightly loose fan shroud. I have printed a new one which snugs up against the bottom of the extruder mount ( ). Other than any vibration caused by the fan or movement during printing it should be pretty stable. At the local 3d printing meetup, there were a fby bilsch - Printing
Sorry for such a delay in responses! Ok, so to answer madscifi #1: Pololu A4988 , ramps 1.4 board #2 1/16 steps on all #3 I have not messed with the current, trimpots are whatever they were when I got them. I'll have to check with a multimeter #4 12 volt I checked the voltage at input and it was dipping down a little bit below 12. I've adjusted the pot on my power supply and its now deliveringby bilsch - Printing
Thanks all for the responses. So, one thing I did by accident. I had thought I should measure the amount of filament extruded through with the nozzle off which is how I had done the tuning. When I re-assembled the hot end I forgot to tighten things up all the way and ruine the heat block/heat break. Thankfully, the e3d is modular so I'm only replacing those pieces vs the whole damned thing ( aboby bilsch - Printing
I'm having a problem with my direct drive extruder. Printer specs - I'm using an mk7 and direct drive, stainless steel from qu-bd - nema-17 stepper, 5mm shaft ( ordered from makerfarm, pretty sure this is the source ) - Merlin firmware, current-ish from git repo ( ish meaning about 1 week ago I did a git pull ) - Repetier host mac, 0.56 build 53 - slic3r bundled with repetier, 0.9.9by bilsch - Printing