Hi James, sorry for the late reply, it is indeed humbling to have all that space available to throw large parts at it. Been toying with the idea to build an electric car for my son so he can drive it, but I'm aware it's gonna take a long time to print everything. I am currently printing at 0.6mm layer height, I'm already addicted to it, so that would cut down on the printing time. As for wood filby val c. - Printing
wood lay filament from mg chemicals simplify 3d slicer, printed from sd card s3d fast printing settings: 205 C temp extruder 0.3 layer height 0.8 layer width 50% speed estimated time: 22 hoursby val c. - Printing
Quotedeaconfrost Quoteval c. Quotedeaconfrost check this out ABS no heat bed I broke it trying to take it off, but I didn't actually give it time after print was finished and its hollow with only 0.8mm bottom which wouldn't help either what kind of plastic is that? I'm not sure I couldn't get an answer as I need a 500mm x 500mm and the shop looking for stupid money for it, 180 euro for 400mmby val c. - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist Yes, you peel the foil/paper off. Peeling it won't do enough damage to the surface to affect your prints. If the surface does get damaged deeply for any reason, just sand it sort of smooth with coarse sandpaper and print on it. Yes, you still need a warm enclosure to print ABS without delaminating. I haven't tried flexible filament on it, but it's a good idea. I haveby val c. - Printing
QuoteMechaBits No, I get they are not the same I dont remember saying they where, (i did manage to get the layers very flat and wanted to protect underneath surface/ if I went too low) I get it doesn't need leveling, I get the fact you bury your print in it and your first layer is level, I just tried burying it in my masking tape, it works, though perhaps not as good as foam, how much is this stuby val c. - Printing
pla and pva support printed together with dual extruder. if one is concerned with the quality of the part's bottom side, one can always use a raft.by val c. - Printing
Quotedeaconfrost check this out ABS no heat bed I broke it trying to take it off, but I didn't actually give it time after print was finished and its hollow with only 0.8mm bottom which wouldn't help either what kind of plastic is that?by val c. - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist Smoothieware was just updated to fix the S3D problems, and apparently S3D did something to their software as well. ha? smoothie was updated, you say? strange, i spoke the other day with arthur wolf about s3d and smoothie, he didn't mention anything. could you please post a link to it? many thanks, dd.by val c. - General
a cable clip that's going to go on the front side of the port extruder. also, my first successful dual extruder printing, given the known issues between s3d and smoothieboard. used one extruder for pva support and the other for pla. simplify 3d slicer 0.8 nozzle dia. both extruders 0.2 layer heightby val c. - General
Quotenebbian Quoteval c. but i'm dead serious about designing a driveable small car. Just don't print it in PLA.. it might start sagging if you leave it out in the sun already did something like that. printed a visor clip for the garage remote, for my wife's car. after a day of sitting there in the heat, the clip sagged. will print in abs next time.by val c. - General
and we have yoda. build time: 45 min. nozzle: 0.8 layer height: 0.3 printing speed: 2700 mm/min slicer: smplify 3d the print is less than acceptable, but tested the maximum safest speed.by val c. - General
foam cells are supposed to crumble under the combined effect of the nozzle compressing it, and said nozzle, being heated, passing that heat onto the foam and thus helping with the crumbling. this is the whole idea when printing on foam: have the tip of the nozzle skim the foam surface, and the first layer will literally be embedded into it, ensuring a strong bond. as for the foam structure, it isby val c. - Printing
QuoteStupendousMan How much plastic have you been able to push with your large printers? Anyone get past the 40mm3 / second, that is often quoted as the max for Volcano? I ask, because I'm still on the fence between cartesian simplicity and corexy cleverness. I need about 185mm/s to get 40mm3 with a .6 nozzled Volcano. The machine is a basic cbot style cube of 60x80x80cm outer dimensions, to beby val c. - General
some fresh pics of a freshly printed toy rocket for my son. the part was printed on foam.by val c. - Printing
Quotedeaconfrost thats actually good for large scale printer like 400mmx400mm plus size, save energy and the headache on working out the heatbed how is the bottom surface of the finish and how well the foam comes off? it is not smooth like when printed on glass, but the foam comes off easily. i would use a deburring tool.by val c. - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist With a title like that I was expecting to see a life size Yoda head... I think with tall, small footprint parts like the tower or tube you printed, the foam may sag under the print's weight and it may tilt. Tall, small footprint parts are a problem for any printer... none of that happened. might be possible though, on heavy parts with large footprint.by val c. - Printing
quite a few complains here about warping. why not printing on foam? no heating at all, extruder skims the foam. parts bind to foam like there's no tomorrow. foam can be used many times, then flip over and use other face. all credits to the digital dentist:by val c. - Printing
Quoten8bot Very nice. Let's see a HUGE print now! hi nathan, will print something big one of these days and post the pictures.by val c. - General
QuoteJamesK Electric Yoda head? That might empty the park I could print a small yoda head to go on the hood, rolls royce style. but i'm dead serious about designing a driveable small car. on top of the printer, I can use whatever experience 25+ years of cad designing brings with. besides, I love spending time on my autocad designing 3d stuff.by val c. - General
meh, you're right, yodas are overrated. better start designing a small electric car for my kid. i'm thinking something around 2-3 feet wide, 4 feet long, some 12 volt electric motors, the works. not to mention all the kids in the park will want one.by val c. - General
QuoteJamesK Quoteval c. at least save it until I make one of those ubiquitous yoda heads The potential for a 1m3 Yoda head is frankly terrifying! terrifying it is, but impossible is not. 1.5 cubic meter make that, the machine volume this big is.by val c. - General
dd, I fiddled with how much the nozzle skims the foam, now it prints even better. no need to use rafts unless the part geometry makes it absolutely necessary.by val c. - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Wow! wow? it's just a tube, dd. at least save it until I make one of those ubiquitous yoda headsby val c. - General
just finished printing a tall tube to test if there's any vertical drifting in the machine. there's none. also tested was the newly purchased simplify 3d ver. 3.1, which works wonderfully. the tube is 30 mm diameter, 3 mm wall thickness and 150 mm height.by val c. - General
QuoteStupendousMan I promised to build a largeish (has to fit through doors) printer for a startup. I have neither talent nor time to roll my own, so help me make a choice here, please. I'm open to anything with a decent BOM, these are just what I've stumbled into. Cbot / Dbot. Proven design, but is it still rigid enough after scaling the size up significantly and hanging double direct extrudersby val c. - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Ouch! that's okay, my hat goes off to you for your equally springy imagination. as for the unused parts, i'll put them up in craigslist.by val c. - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Quoteval c.wanted to ask you, how did you get the idea to use foam? I was having trouble getting prints to stick to my printer's glass bed at the time and started thinking about how to fix that. I saw a 90's vintage Stratasys FDM1600 industrial printer at the makerspace that prints on urethane foam (that they sell for a ridiculous price). I tried a piece of the Stratasby val c. - General
also, i gave you due credits on our openbuilds forum:by val c. - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist I found that the foam is a little springy, and so corners of parts printed directly on the foam (without a brim) tended to lift a bit. Using a raft fixed that- the corners of the raft would lift a little but the print was fine. Also, when printing the part directly on the foam a little of the foam remains embedded in the bottom surface of the print. Not a problem mostby val c. - General