Any news on when it'll be back in stock?by UncleSas - For Sale
Quotedc42 Quotefeistylemur I've been playing around with it tonight. I tried that eschertek calculator and it was disastrous. I don't know what I was doing wrong but it was giving me values for the Z offset in the completely wrong direction. Most likely you entered the height errors with the wrong sign. I state in the instructions that you need to enter a positive height error where the nozzleby UncleSas - Delta Machines
Quotemeq123 Quotedocpayce 4) Still thinking about meq123's design to raise the hotend. I do think this would lessen some problems. OK, I'm now up to proof of concept stage The vertical supports are epoxied into the base and then 3mm rods epoxied into the rod tops to allow the top plate to be removable. The bottom of the E3v6 heater block is level with the bottom of the effector plate, leavingby UncleSas - Delta Machines
Quotemeq123 QuoteUncleSas So, next up... Drilling granite... Because the aluminum heater/build plate isn't exactly flat (it's out as much as .4mm), but the granite tile I cut up for a build plate is flat to within .051mm and it requires absolutely no surface prep beyond a wipe with alcohol for PETG and PLA... Granite, interesting! How thick is the plate and how well do you think that'll work forby UncleSas - Delta Machines
Quoteav8r1 That RAMPS mount is a waste of plastic. The holes don't line up with the board. I wonder how much time, effort and material has been wasted in the maker community because the Italians decided to make the holes in an Arduino assymetrical? That explains... OK... Wow... The acrylic definitely has to go. I think it might flex a little when the head accelerates. So, next up... Drillinby UncleSas - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 If you are determined to use those motors, you have a few possibilities: 1. If your electronics is 24V-capable, then you should get reasonable performance out of them using a 24V supply. 2. Use half of each coil only, i.e. one end and the centre tap. The torque will be halved, but the inductance will be reduced by a factor of 4. 3. Take the motor apart. You will probably find that thby UncleSas - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Quotedocpayce @UncleSas: (Late, but hey, whatever ) Yes, exactly. It was just about the (China) GT2 belt quality. There are a lot of MUCH better quality belts out there, both GT2's and others. The 3MR version I mentioned is just one possible solution, which is well known for its stiffness. Do you have any hints for sourcing better quality GT2?by UncleSas - Delta Machines
Quotespiffcow QuoteUncleSas Quoteav8r1 It may be that different industries use terms slightly differently. My aviation background associates threads which are heated, assembled and allowed to cool to lock them into place with the phrase "interference fit." Whatever we choose to call it, the physics are there. That use of "interference fit" is an interesting term of art which I speculate is specby UncleSas - Delta Machines
Quoteav8r1 It may be that different industries use terms slightly differently. My aviation background associates threads which are heated, assembled and allowed to cool to lock them into place with the phrase "interference fit." Whatever we choose to call it, the physics are there. That use of "interference fit" is an interesting term of art which I speculate is specific to aviation. I've doneby UncleSas - Delta Machines
Quoteav8r1 @sharkicicles, no, the plastic didn't jam your threads. It's called an interference fit. As the nozzle got hot and cold, the threads tighten. If you have to disassemble a hot end, heat it to printing temperature before applying torque. Once the threads are broken loose, then cool the hot end and unscrew. Grip the hot block, not the cold end or heat sink. Not quite, but almost...by UncleSas - Delta Machines
Why not locate the motor somewhere else? Connect the motor via flexible shafting (drive cable like they use in car speedometers) and use a worm gear to drive the hobbed gear in the extruder. That would allow for both a small motor and very light extruder. The one unknown for me is just how much lash is inherent in flexible drive cable.by UncleSas - General
After a bit more googling, I came across this: and this: If I understand what I'm reading,I could and probably should wire the motors like the one I'm looking at for bipolar half coil operation for applications like the Kossel I want to put it in. That's because bipolar parallel wiring gives a broad, flat torque curve where bipolar series gives a high torque curve at low speeds that drops offby UncleSas - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Thanks! That would make that motor very bad for a Kossel; as the acceleration would be terrible.by UncleSas - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I've got a few newbie questions about how to read stepper specs. I found what may be a very good fit for a Kossel, and I don't quite understand what I'm reading. Here are the specs for the motor: Frame Size: NEMA 17 Number of Lead Wires: 6 Lead Wire Configuration: flying leads, no connector Lead Wire/Cable Length: 300 mm Unipolar Holding Torque: 23 oz-in Bipolar Holding Torque: 32 oz-in Step Angby UncleSas - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Thanks for the responses! @ayudtee: I was considering upgrading the motors for other reasons, and have been looking for suitable German, US, or Japanese manufacture steppers. With respect to the rollers, do the OpenBuilds rollers run in the extrusions that came with the kit, or did you have to swap them out for V-slot? Also, did you have to replace your carriages to use those wheels? Hmmm, and wby UncleSas - Delta Machines
Has anyone replaced the wheels on the carriages? Mine wobble a lot (~1mm deflection in the carriage) because the bearings are sloppy, and I think that's where most of the ringing I'm getting is coming from. If you have replaced them, what did you use? I'm thinking about the Open Builds V Wheels, but don't know if any of their offerings will work with the regular 2020. There are also these otherby UncleSas - Delta Machines
Has anyone tried MatterControl with this printer? I've been using Repetier Host Mac, but it's a few years old, and I'd like to be using newer host software. Cura might be an option, but my first experiences weren't positive. Slic3r, Repetier-Firmware 0.92.9, and Repetier-Host are mostly playing well together, but the Mac host is something like 4 years old if the github timestamps are accurate.by UncleSas - Delta Machines
After a few (OK 15-20) rounds of tuning the prints, I started getting prints that I thought were up to snuff... So, naturally, I started printing minor upgrades; including these legs with adjustable feet: It looks like the center hole on the base lines up with the center hole of the 2020 extrusion. Has anyone here tapped the center hole of the ones that Folger ships? If so, are they M5 or M6?by UncleSas - Delta Machines
QuoteLegrand I have not used it but it does not appear to be a drop in replacement for the existing thermistor. You'll have to drill & tap the opening larger for the screw in mount, that is assuming there is enough room to do that. You can also get the same thing from Banggood for a couple bucks (assuming you can wait a couple of weeks for them to come from China). Banggood I'm still doingby UncleSas - Delta Machines
Looks like my hotend thermistor is bad... And I probably broke it when I assembled the carriage... I was talking to a local acquaintance (with a lot of experience) about setup and such and he said that I should probably keep hot end heater cartridge and thermistor spares on hand, because they get broken during regular maintenance and often during an initial build. (Imagine that...) So, right ofby UncleSas - Delta Machines
Thanks paul_delta and Captain_Tim. The problem with my Z probe was that the 3 wire connector I got with the kit has the black and red wires reversed from the photos on Google Drive. I turned the connector around and hung the white wire hole out over nothing and the probe reads correctly now.by UncleSas - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim No problem. The Z-probe still reports high if it is touching the aluminum? It's always High? If it's always High, then something must be wrong with the wiring. It's always high when I do M119. LED comes on at Z000.89, goes off at Z000.90, but M119 returns don't change. Quotepaul_delta I use regular blue-tip inductive probe that comes with Rev.B kit. Check your wiring and resistby UncleSas - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim You should be plugging the probe into the +12V and the -12V on the PSU, not the ground from the power cord. Not sure if that makes a difference though. That's how I have it. The probe is hooked up in the correct spot. Try moving that GND connection to the -12V on the PSU and see if that solves your issue. No joy from the Z probe. It's still always reporting high. Perhaps this iby UncleSas - Delta Machines
QuoteCaptain_Tim You most likely didn't do anything that'd require extra work. For my resistors, I didn't have big enough heat shrink at the time, so it got a good dose of hot glue instead. Hopefully... So, some pictures: The Z probe is in the block with the end stops, second furthest from the USB and power connections on the RAMPS shield. The wires as attached to the power supply. The blueby UncleSas - Delta Machines
Thanks! I definitely have the thermistors in the wrong slots, then. I can't take pictures of the resistors, because they're in heat shrink because I thought that wrapping them in tape would be messy... I'll get photos of the other stuff when I get home. Hopefully I haven't done anything that requires a lot of rework.by UncleSas - Delta Machines
Hello! I've got a Rev B kit mechanically assembled, and the wiring done, but possibly not correct. As several people have noted, the wiring instructions are not complete or necessarily coherent. I've compiled and uploaded paul_delta's Repetier firmware using Arduino 1.6.5. I am not sure that I have the thermistors or Z probe connected to the board in the right places or oriented correctly. Zby UncleSas - Delta Machines