Ok, stay with me on this one. Ive been running a Wades since I got into this in Oct. Its been fine - for the most part. This past weekend I had some filiment feeding issues. Which resulted in me assembling a Gregs extruder which I had printed out with herringbone gears. All went well on the rebuild except the hobbed bolt that I had for the wades wasnt enough grip for the Gregs. No issue, I orderby Parabolic - General
So last night I was printing and kinda had a extruder failure with my Wades thats been working great since Oct. Now I had already printed a Gregs and a set of herringbone gears so I figured Id just upgrade now (It was meant for my next RepRap). So after taking all the time to get everything together and fit just right, for the life of me I cant seem to get the filiment to grab on the bolt. The hoby Parabolic - General
yeah, Im running xp with sp3. I have the latest .net and opengl drivers installed. Ill look into virtual studio, but im not much of a programmer to be able to understand that. its a shame as I REALLY want to try this program! Jeffby Parabolic - General
Well, I just installed the open gl from ati for the radeon series of cards. still nothing. It shows in task manager that its running, but no program. Is there somethign else this program needs to run? Im using Pronterface now, but with the integration of Slic3r I wanted to give this a shot - looks good.by Parabolic - General
I just tried to get that repetier running on my reprap machine and it doesnt work. I downloaded the setup file and it installed with no errors, but nothing happens when I run it. running an xp machine 2ghz with 1 gig of ram. radeon 7000 series card and the latest .net (4.0) any ideas? Jeffby Parabolic - General
no - I dont have a meter - yet. also, it seemed to go up, but not that much. So how much amps do you need to run this? the wiki only says 10. I KNOW theres guys out there getting the correct temp with modest power supplies. Jeffby Parabolic - General
Ok, replced that with a 300w atx that has 14a on the 12v line output. let my bed heat up for 10-15 mins and did a print. Still maxed out at 73 deg c. My pronterface is set to 110 for the bed. so it almost seems like a software issue? The light on the bed never goes out so I imagine its still heating. according to the wiki it only needs a 10 amp line. the bed doesnt feel like it has broken tracesby Parabolic - General
hmm - apparently im using a 165w atx and the 12v is rated at 10 amps. Really need more to drive that?by Parabolic - General
Well, Ive been working with my REPRAP about a year now, and its great! I seem to have better results with ABS as far as quality goes. However, even with a HBP, I still tend to get warpage on the larger/longer prints. My thermistor shows the HBP temp at 60 when its set at 100. In fact, no matter what I crank it to it still only will achieve around that temp. Now Ive read and seen guys cranking theby Parabolic - General
Great, Now that the materials and firmwares have been covered, has ANYONE built a dual head REPRAP as of yet to do the same prints as gRok has done with his makerbot? Again, personally i feel THIS is what a dual head printer should be for - im not really into the color thing yet - but id love to be able to print with a dissolvable support. Thanks~! Jeffby Parabolic - General
cool! its good to know that people are out there trying to make this happen!! I wasnt aware of the cost at this time of the material, but as it was stated - maybe another material will come into light as the dissolvable material comes more into use. I think this would be a huge step into 3D printing if it can be perfected! Jeffby Parabolic - General
Now that there has been advances into the pla/pva dissolving printing (as posted here and on MAKE), I was wondering if anyone has come up with a dual head unit for a reprap yet? and whatever changes in the software it needs to run it. I wasnt too concerned with this before, but now with the ability to print a dissolvable form, I think this is the next step in the 3d printer that needs to be pusheby Parabolic - General
weird... Just checked my pin settings from the marlin config I got from you misan - they were all set to -1 on all 3 axis'. I guess thats why mine seems to be homing correctly. jeffby Parabolic - General
hmm - ill have to look at mine - didnt notice - i thought it was checking the endstops normally.... y is that a problem? jeffby Parabolic - General
im still not convinced that slicer is better than sfact/skeinforge. Maybe its my settings, but I printed the exact same piece with both and the slicer one is alot "sloppier". marlin seems to be doing a better job then sprinter though - so far. Jeffby Parabolic - General
Well, Im also using a heated bed and glass with Kapton tape on it - was using blue tape for a while - spotty results - sometimes sticks sometimes lifts.. I also made the switch to ABS as i find it prints alot better than abs. No Im not running a fan either. Maybe the perimeter difference is why the infill wasn't present. I do like how slicer builds the perimeters from the inside out - makes moreby Parabolic - General
Ok, So the conversion has gone pretty painless for me to move to Marlin - thanks to Miro's help. However, I rna into my first stumbling block with Slicer last night. I had to reprint a ring I made before, and figured Id try it with slicer - It didnt print well half way up, and the sections started falling over due to there was no fill (5mm thick sections only had the 3 perimeters - no fill in theby Parabolic - General
hmm - thats odd though - as I dont start a print until I see the head temp at operating temp.....so what its waiting for I have no idea... is there a way to take out that wait command?? Jeffby Parabolic - General
Well, I got it configured and working!! Thanks!! However im having a slight problem... as it was listed above, it pauses for about 10-20 seconds after executing my start gcode. I really dont like this as it looks like it oozes some material out . I checked the solution listed above and it was already commented out - any ideas how to fix that? thanks! Jeffby Parabolic - General
Thanks for sending that!! Ill give it a go here in a bit - after i finish recovering from last night! LOL!! Thanks as well for the detailed setup instructions. I also have mechanical endstops and they are at the min positions. Im using a heated buildplate as well, so ill have to make sure thats a go too. Ill let you know my success or failure! Jeffby Parabolic - General
Micha, I appreciate that!! That would be a great stepping off point since I see you had issues compiling. Im not using SD support either... So just copying over my steps from sprinter to the marlin config file should work? Ill PM you with my email if you could send it to me.. Thanks!! Jeffby Parabolic - General
Ok, cool... So the only file i need to change then is the config?? Just copy all my sprinter settings over and flash the board? Now on that acelleration - where do I change that? is that max acell?? I would like a fairly painless changeover. I have tried slicer and it seems better than sfact - what is it that you listed above? "slic3r.exe --gcode-arcs" is that something diffrent? Thanks! Jeffby Parabolic - General
Hey guys - Been seeing some buzz here and there of great prints coming out with marlin. Ive been using sprinter since I started, and was thinking of trying to switch over to Marlin. However, it has been a while since I configured my firmware (forgot how), and after looking at Marlins configure file it looks like a different animal to set up. Im running A prusa with a wades extruder, ramps 1.4 onby Parabolic - General
Also - whats a good test to do for this problem? I know it wont show up in the perimeter test.. im just trying to figure out how to balance the infill without changing the perimeter - ive messed around with some settings and the fill gets better but the perimeter suffers...by Parabolic - General
NewPerfection Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Your perimeters and sparse infill come out nice > because the extra plastic has somewhere to go, so > it doesn't build up. You need to adjust your > extruder steps per mm so that your extruder pulls > in exactly 1 mm of filament when you tell it to > move 1 mm. yup - thats been done and is correct.by Parabolic - General
ok - im using sfact - havent had good luck with slicer. now if my overall flowrate is too high then how come my perimeters and non-filled areas look great? or is it just my infil flowrate? so - where to adjust that then? thanks Jeffby Parabolic - General
ok - so made a LOOONNGG ass print last night - the first 3 or so layers look too heavy - and any of the fully solid layers do too. (pictured) However, the perimeters as well as the "gapped fill" layers look awesome!! this excess seems to only happen on the fully filled layers. so how can I turn that down only without affecting the other stuff thats good? Im thinking in fill?? but which option isby Parabolic - General
Ok - im having issues printing my first layer - seems like its putting down too much material. ive tried in the "raft" settings to minimise it - still comes out too thick - whats the best way to adjust it?? im printing in abs as well... thanks! Jeffby Parabolic - General
ok - well how about "slightly" enlarging the prusa design? The build plate is roughly 9.5 inches - how about increasing that to 12 and scaling the machine accordingly - would it still work the same? Realistically, all that is is just longer rods - no?by Parabolic - General
Thanks for all the help!! After im done making/editing my file - then do I just export it or do I have to render it first? And how do I do that?by Parabolic - General