Hi Wangsamas Well done and looks good. We will try and find time to try it out on our Scara Arm and Parallel Scara Arm and let you know. Cheers Seanby CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
We released the Pulse Train Hat this weekend that sits on top of the Raspberry PI or can be used stand alone. It has it's own dedicated command set but also we are working on a new command set called Raw buffered mode and a sample application with source code to convert Gcode to PTHAT commands. But for now Instant or Normal Buffered commands will control the motors with no problems. We have doby CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Rather than hijack Mikes excellent thread, I thought I would start a new one. I have been trying out a new Scara Dual (parallel) arm design and now at the point of testing. The controller is Geetech T2560 and gets configured the same as the 7 = Ultimaker so using #define MOTHERBOARD 7 Ttsalo/Marlin-SCARA seems fine on the X-Y and Z-Axis and behaves as expected. Now I moved onto Marlin FIVE_Bby CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Hi Mike I need to post an update on the single arm Scara when I get time. Not had a lot of time to play with it as much as I would of liked, as it has been a busy year work wise. That is the problem when you turn your hobby into a business, you end up with less play time trying to keep up with the demand of production products and less on the fun parts. But it is great going to work and doingby CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Hi Mike Really nice work and thanks for sharing. And thanks Pavlo Gryb for the Marlin-5bar Firmware. I have had a parallel scara design on the table for a while, but as usual not much play time. But this thread has got me back to the urge of protoyping and making. Going to try and keep everything in one chunk of metal for the arm drives and also the Z-Axis by trying to add rotating ballscrewby CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Really nice Well done, look forward to following this one. Cheers Sean.by CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
That is the same style of stepper+planetary gearbox we used in the MK1 arm at the top of this thread. We lathed out some aluminium joints that had bearings top and bottom to take the pressure off the gearbox bearing. 1.5 degree backlash equates to a fair bit of movement by the time you put the load of your arms on them. The ones we tried did not have that much backlash but were more expensive.by CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Hi Evil Monkey Have been playing with Smoothie Board today which if it works out well would allow Open Source software to be used with the machine. But next week I will be testing our own hardware/firmware as I think a dedicated controller is just going to make it easier to implement. Will see how it pans out and update as we go along. Cheers Sean.by CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Hi Dejay All the arms are made out of Aluminium. The black parts on the first arm printed lids to cover up the motors. The Harmonic drives are not homemade ones but the commercial ones I picked up a couple for a good price on Ebay for testing. They are really expensive at £1K a piece new from Harmonic Drives AG But since we have now sourced a supplier that can do them at reasonable prices anby CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Found a bit of time to take some pictures today. This is the MK3 Prototype with the 30:1 Harmonic gears Cheers Sean.by CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Hi Dejay Nice 3D drawing and idea. Sorry to say with the MK3 prototype we have now gone for moving bed on the Z-Axis and keep the Scara Arm fixed up in the ait at around 300mm mark. The reason was that we wanted to make the actual arm as stable as we could and take all means of flex out of it. I have found time the last few days to get back to the MK3 and by the end of the week I will post soby CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
I also do not use limit switches for homing on my machine. X,Y zero also bottom left. So jog it X,Y over and then lower my Z-Axis so nozzle nearly hits piece of paper I have placed under it. Then disconnect/re-connect in Pronterface and every thing is where it should be. When I finished printing for the day I send the machines all 3-axis's to zero point and turn off. Next day when powered up Pby CLaNZeR - General
Well it has been nearly 4 months and in the background the Scara solution is actually coming together. We ditched the Planetary Gearboxes after getting through so many, even with gentle ramping they cannot hold up of running for a few hours without a tooth getting stripped. MK2 ended up being a 3 stage gear combination of T2.5mm pulleys and belts that were built into the arm and actually workedby CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
@Rook We do use our 3D printer in anger as we print all our stepper covers, big motor covers and gland holders etc with the machine. Which means when we are making a batch run of machines it can be printing up to 14 hours a day. The first J-Head was fine for a few days and we started getting bad prints which was a shame because the quality of the prints were not too bad. So we just though oh muby CLaNZeR - General
Had a couple off Reprap-UK ebay to try Fast delivery each time. At first both were printing really good quality, but both did not last long maybe 30 hours of printing and the print starts going all bubbly like it is letting air in or something. Seems the aluminium nozzle wears very quickly. Cheers Sean.by CLaNZeR - General
I managed to wang off the first nozzle I did up. I used a small socket wrench and it did not take much pressure at all to snap it off. When new nozzle arrived I used small spanner and putting light pressure on the spanner just gently pushed it up tight, so it was just past thumb tight. I would say between thumb tight before you take the heat up and then tightening it off was less than 1/4 of aby CLaNZeR - General
What size nozzle you using ? What are your feed rates for the nozzle when slicing? Might be jamming a bit too much filament down that extruder? Just a thought.by CLaNZeR - General
I would check your thermistor and the settings you have set in firmware as I actually had to turn it down to 190C to stop too much melt. We use an external temperature controller for the heated bed and extruder as found the built in firmware routines could give us issue on fast printing. I always whack it up to 220C for the first layer to get a good grip and then trim it back to 190 ish so we dby CLaNZeR - General
Well at last a hot end/nozzle that does what it claims ! I have been through most models of hot ends over the last couple of years as we run our prototype 3D printer at high speeds non stop some weeks, printing covers for the motors on our machines. We started out using the Mendel parts hot ends and to be honest they were great as never jammed and the heat separation using a simple peek barrier,by CLaNZeR - General
Glad I am not the only one having this problem. I was using the latest version RC2 I think and on the first print I thought oh the printer must of jammed. But second print did the same and exactly at the same height. Went back to old 0.6 version and created Gcode again and everything fine. The height was approx. 55mm when it went wrong. Total height of piece it was slicing is 104mm heightby CLaNZeR - General
Yep have seen that one before and nice build but very low resolution. With the version1 I made above it has 50:1 gearboxes and the steppers were driven with micro stepping at 1/16th (3200) pulses per rev. That gives the arm movement of 0.00225 degrees which equates to a resolution of 0.007mm But the plus side was we are able to run the steppers motors at silly speeds which also gives us the rby CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Actually it is not that bad. We loaded it up with 5 kilo weight to see what the torque was like on the gearboxes and it moved it fine. We had to bolt the base down tight to a bench, but was very surprised. Of course it did bend, but then a Hot end does not weigh 5 kilos does it But agree on some of the points and spent this weekend drawing up a new design that does away with the crappy gearboxeby CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Yep does look like a crane But the reason behind the skinny arms was to get as much movement as I could and not restrict it to just 180 degree arc. This will probably change with the next design as the arms are going to be beefed up to take the new gear system I have in mind. If the arms are strong enough and the joints mounted on wide bearings then having the weight of the motors on the armsby CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Hey Bobc ! Thanks and will push out more details as it develops. If we run the stepper drivers at 16th micro step then that gives us 3200 steps per revolution on the motors. So if we did direct drive then this would only give us 0.1125mm resolution. By adding the 50:1 gearboxes to the steppers we now get 0.005mm resolution which now gives it possibilities such as 3D printing, Icing adapters nby CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Hi A2 The Steppers have 50:1 planetary gearboxes attached which sit inside the lathed down aluminium joints. These sit in bit flat bearings to keep it rigid, so very simple. Still very much a work in progress and still not happy with the gearboxes durability as I have just stripped the gears inside again while playing around yesterday. Also the planetary gearboxes have a little backlash, whicby CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Well even though I built this months a go I only managed to find time over the Xmas break to wire it up and give it a whirl. Please find video for anyone interested in first run. Cheers Sean.by CLaNZeR - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Want to use some smooth, accurate ballscrews on your machine, instead of threaded rod. We have some RM1204 Ball Screws surplus to requirements and will be listing various sizes over the next few weeks. Cheers Sean.by CLaNZeR - For Sale
Happy New Year to everyone!. We have just launched a Kickstarter project for the new Desktop CNC Mini-Muscle Machine. Desktop Mini Muscle CNC Machine. by CLaNZeR — Kickstarter Cheers Sean.by CLaNZeR - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
We have found time to make up some kits of our Sanguino to Stepper Breakout Version 2.0. This is based on the popular Sanguino Board. The difference is we have added breakout blocks which allows you to connect it to an existing CNC machine and use it's stepper drivers. This will also allow you to use the Stepper drivers of your choice if building your own Reprap 3D Printer, Instead of being reby CLaNZeR - For Sale
Please find below a preview of our new 5-Axis 3D Printer Controller Box. •Custom Aluminium Case with thick base plate for heat displacement of drivers. •Stylish Small Compact Design 275mm(W) x 160mm (D) x 50mm (H) . •USB Custom Sanguino Breakout Board programmed with Open Source Marlin Firmware. •Easy screw terminals inside, no soldering and quick connection. •5 Axis Stepper drivers, rated uptoby CLaNZeR - For Sale