I thought Marlin produces much better quality prints than Sprinter?! Also.. apart from Skeinforge has the function to produce support material, any other slicer can do that?? I really need support material because I want to print architectural models and there are many overhangs...by ahbtsang - General
do the neodymium magnets stick to aluminium plate?? Yes i got my picture frame from a budget shop for £1.20.. not bad..by ahbtsang - General
I tried that, but when the end stop was hit (i pressed it with my finger), the plate could still move to +y (towards me).. I even set the homing direction to 1 (MAX)... im using RAMPS 1.3, I changed the firmware pins at Y MAX endstop from -1 to 15, but it still doesnt stop the motor.. I also tried, on RAMPS board, plugging the endstop to y max instead of y min.. when I did that, the plate couldnby ahbtsang - General
is there anyway, by changing the firmware, without moving the endstop and use it to home to max y?? I've been messing around with the firmware and when the y endstop was triggered, it still moves in +y position, but not -y position. I also plugged the endstop to +y instead of -y.. but still result. reason i dont want to move the endstop is because the wire isnt long enough...by ahbtsang - General
james: I could find the print order.. but for some reason my prints seem to have missing loops... I'm just getting 1 layer of perimeter, then the infill.by ahbtsang - General
jcabrer: you mean to reverse the two loops of the stepper motor, so basically flipping the 4 pins around?? It is quite weird, because when looking directly to the Prusa with Y-motor in front, all axes seem to be in the right orientation.. ie: in any host software: -x goes to the left +x goes to the right -y print bed goes toward me +y print bed goes away from me -z down +z upby ahbtsang - General
i thought I've already set the e steps accurately... maybe I'll do it again then.. but slowing down the Z and flow rate does solve most of the problem... BTW... I'm able to find the number of LOOPS in SFACT?? All I'm getting is just the perimeter and infill.. where can I find the setting for it?by ahbtsang - General
rob, and you still good corners and layers at that speed printing the 0.5mm wall?? Will that be anything to do with the heated bed making the PLA too soft?by ahbtsang - General
i managed to get the 0.5mm wall print to fairly good quality with only just 4mm/sec perimeter speed.. is this normal or too slow??by ahbtsang - General
thanks very much, I'll give that a try.by ahbtsang - General
also i think there are many situations especially with architectural buildings that slic3r doesnt slice properly...by ahbtsang - General
i know.. it's so much easier.. but does slic3r has support material functions? coz thats what I really like from skeinforge.. otherwise its too much settingby ahbtsang - General
I realised all my prints are mirrored.. is there some setting that I did wrong? When displaying in repetier, the gcode looked fine, its only when the model is being printed, it is mirrored.. any help would be appreciated. many thanks. Adrianby ahbtsang - General
Hi.. just upgraded to Marlin firmware and using SFACT with a heated bed.. Im getting some poor results and kinda stuck on how to get it to work.. Before I was using Sprinter and Skeinforge with the transparency film bed, I managed to get some decent quality print, but now even printing the 0.5mm wall or the 20mm box, I'm getting poor results. Please have a look at the pic. i am printing PLA aby ahbtsang - General
Finally got it to work... with some calculations, my nichrome wire has 8.6 Ohms/m and i calculated that I needed 2 wires of 349mm connected in parallel in order to achieve 1.5ohms of total resistance.. and now its working and can heat up the bed to 60C in about 7-10 mins.. thanks very much for all the help guys. Adrianby ahbtsang - General
just tested by connecting a 1.4 ohm nichrome to the D10 terminals, it was glowing RED hot like a bulb filament!!! Now I'm a bit frightened whether it will be like this when it is stuck to the heated bed.. will that even melt the kapton tape???by ahbtsang - General
however, can someone explain why there wasn't any voltage across when I connected the heated bed? but when I unplugged it, it read 12V at D10? does it also mean if I want to test if it is working, all I need is to cut a piece of nichrome wire to about 1ohms, then connect to the D10, and it should get hot.. right??by ahbtsang - General
i see. thanks very much for your help.by ahbtsang - General
I found this resistance wire online, it 60.6Ω per yard, is this any good??by ahbtsang - General
my PSU has a 500W output, 30A with 12V as it says in the output table. so it should be beefy enough. How can I check if the MOSFET is dead? When I unplugged the heated bed from D10, the 12V reading came back does it mean it is still working?by ahbtsang - General
nophead: Thanks for reminding me.. school boy error.. misan: The brown and blue wires were insulated at the point you circled. Is that the right way to wire up the nichrome wires? So if I get some thinner nichrome wire, the circuit will work.. as long as the total resistance is around 1-3 Ohms? Is that right? Do I need any additional items if I have RAMPS 1.3 board? Many thanks.by ahbtsang - General
Photo attached. I've been measuring the two ends as I added the wires. Originally, there was 1.8Ohms, then it dropped to 0.9 > 0.6 > 0.4 > 0.3 etc as more nichrome wires were added. To check for short, I placed one lead of my multimeter to either end of the wire, and the other lead to the aluminium board. The buzzer did not sound, and when I placed the multimeter leads to the + / - terby ahbtsang - General
I've been following the instructions here to make the heated bed.. So far I've managed to setup the nichrome wires connected in parallel across the whole aluminium plate. But I'm only getting 0.3Ohms of resistance, I have around 13-14 wires on each ladder of nichrome wires. Have I done something wrong already?? Ive also checked there is no short between the nichrome wires and the aluminium plateby ahbtsang - General
just wondering.. what is the benefit of printing ABS over PLA??by ahbtsang - General
I tried using masking tape and it didn't stick at all.. Am I supposed to have the sticky side up?by ahbtsang - General
I've just made my first working part from my Reprap, it was an internal hard disk mount for my desktop PC. My CM case came with 4 sets of HDD mount and I needed one pair extra. With my fairly strong 3D skills, I managed to model it up quickly and got it to print in couple of hours. Although the printed part was about 0.5mm too large which I had to sand down the side, but after that it was workinby ahbtsang - General
Hi everyone, Not sure if this is new or just something I'm unaware of, but recently I've been experimenting printing on different kinds of materials using PLA and have this great finding. First of all, I haven't got my heated bed to work, so I was only playing with whatever materials I could find lying around at home and printing on it. I found a box of unused transparency film for laser printby ahbtsang - General
oh.. 357C actually... I switched the pin heads for the headed bed thermistor with hot end thermistor and it reads the correct temperature, so I'm sure it is not the pins setting or thermistor table error, so must be a short somewhere touching the aluminium board. As with the PSU, I am using a 450W PC power supply, so I'm sure that is powerful enough. However, if it is drawing so much current froby ahbtsang - General