Hi, I just wired up my aluminium plate with nichrome wires and a thermister... I have 2 major problems: 1) Thermister is reading 375C at room temperature.. 2) Nichrom wires not getting hot The bed temp has always been displaying 375C even though I placed my hand over the thermister trying to heat it up, with a multimeter it measures about 1.8 Ohms, could this be caused by the aluminium plateby ahbtsang - General
thanks for the link. its sorted now.by ahbtsang - General
Hi.. Maybe this is a very simple question.. but how come whenever before I print (using Repetier and Skeinforge), soon after the print head moves to the start position, it commands the extruded to roll backwards for over 50mm before starting the job?by ahbtsang - General
Hi, When I bought my hot end, the seller included a spare thermistor.. I'm wondering if this could be used for the MK2 heat bed? 1) Will it be able to fit through the hole in the middle? 2) Is that the correct type of thermistor in terms of it electrical properties.. Many thanks. Adrianby ahbtsang - General
I think it has to be firmware + software communication problem?? I just installed repetier.. and it worked fine! Is there any setting that I've missed out in replicatorg and printrun?by ahbtsang - General
Hi, I installed sprinter firmware, when I was controlling it manually in Printrun, I could set the extruder motor to run, but whenever I pressed the print, the motor just didn't turn? This happened the same to replicatorg software... I could move all axes, but not the extruder... Can anyone explain to me why is that?? Cheers, Adrianby ahbtsang - General
apart from the blown driver.. all other motors are working fine now! at fast or slow speed.. yay! I've found out that one or two of the driver pins were pushed upwards when inserted into the board, making the pins not connected to the driver.. must be due to my poor soldering skills... anyway.. I guess I'll have to wait until new year, or later, to get a new driver... but thanks very much fby ahbtsang - General
i think i've blown one of the driver... I accidentally inserted it the wrong way, and now most of the adjacent pins on the driver has a resistance of 2000k+ ohms... have I really blown it??by ahbtsang - General
nophead: what do you mean "stepstick rather than a genuine Pololu"? I thought I bought a genuine A4988 pololu driver...??by ahbtsang - General
I realised there could be something wrong with my stepper motors.. Its clearly they are all working as they could drive the motors.. however, when I was using kliment's printrun to move the axes, 2 of the 4 drivers could not rotate the motor at a slow speed.. Hence I established that 2 of the stepper drivers are working fine, and 2 were something wrong. I tried turning down or up the wiper, theby ahbtsang - General
Thanks Johnny, I've switched around the wires and now they are working! Not sure if its because I bought the components from Netherlands, both the motor and endstop wire colours are different from the prusa manual! lol Merry Christmas!by ahbtsang - General
Hi, I'm not sure if this is supposed to be like this.. when the end stops are triggered.. it shuts down the arduino.. ie.. even can't detect it. It is supposed to be like this? many thanks. Adrianby ahbtsang - General
Thanks andrew! now I've got the Z axis and Y axis moving in a specific direction. you're right, just swapping around the motor wires! Now I have them in this order: (Red, Green, Yellow, Blue) now (Red, Blue, Green, Yellow) before I'm unable to get the X axis working in this order.. so maybe I'll try different combination later. With one of the stepper driver.. it's been dead silence.. not suby ahbtsang - General
Thanks for your info. Now I managed to get the + /- axes to work, by fiddling with the configuration.h file. What appears to be the problem is the motor doesn't know which way to rotate.. its like trying to go CW and CCW the same time, hence making this kicking noise. I've check the solder points and pins are not touch each other, (as far as I can tell with a multimeter). The type of stepperby ahbtsang - General
nophead: sorry im very bad with electronics... what is pots and wiper? did you mean to measure the voltage at the 2 points connected to the adjuster (the turning thing). I've getting 1.6V at these two points no matter how far i turn the adjuster..by ahbtsang - General
the motor wires are in this order (red, blue, green, yellow) I don't have black, so I'm guess that would be yellow. also how do I check if the stepper driver is blown?? many thanks.by ahbtsang - General
nophead: I tried adjusting the current setting on the Polous, within the 360 degrees allowed rotation, it gave the same kicking result.. do you think I should ignore that stopper and do a few more turns on the current setting?by ahbtsang - General
hi everyone, I just powered up my reprap, uploaded the Sprinter firmware with the instructions in readme.. I managed to connect it to my computer with USB, but when I tried moving the motors (tried replicatorg and kliment-Printrun-a4b3751) , none of them worked, except for Y- and it was making loud kicking noise and moving back and forth within 1mm or less... Does anyone here know what is goingby ahbtsang - General
Hi, this might be a silly question to some.. I've finally soldered all parts for the RAMPS and attached to the Arduino. On the RAMPS board, there's 5A and 11A, I know these are power inputs, but what happens with the power input right below it? (the arduino power) is it still necessary? If so, what is the voltage and A? I bought a cheapo PSU, it has a output chart of: 484W: 20A --- 3.3V 30A ---by ahbtsang - General
So make it similar to a model kit? Thats a lot of work I need to do.. haah.. Sure, I'll see what I can do with that! I'm not sure if I upload to Thingiverse whether it will be taken down like what happened to the Warhammer modelby ahbtsang - General
Hi everyone, after seeing another post about print quality, I though I might start this one and possibly lead to a contest of How Detail can your Reprap print?? Here I have a 3D model that I created for a competition. It is from a Japanese animation called Gundam, maybe some of you have already heard of... Anyway, this model was created in 3Ds Max, has over 71k polygons, overhangs and fine detaiby ahbtsang - General
hey, anyone would like to give this model a shot? I am happy to "donate" this figure I modelled over a month time for a competition. They are composed of many separate pieces, but I can try my very best to join them together. Give me 1-2 days! BTW there are 71k polygonsby ahbtsang - General
oops.. Warping.. I get it now. But I thought it was another issue other than the different cooling speed.. What I know from a Stratasys machine is when the build layer is too thin (eg a vertial wall), the printer will move everywhere making hairy extrusions because it doesn't have a point of reference. That was what I was told by the rapidprototype technician, but I'm not sure if this will happenby ahbtsang - General
Hi all, I am new to the Reprap. I've heard of the wrapping problem when using the Stratasys machines and I've heard about similar problems with reprap. Can somebody explain to me, or show me information what that actually is?? What is causing this problem? many thanks.by ahbtsang - General
Thanks. How strong does the supporting structure stick to the actual model? Will I end up doing a lot of post-printing work, such as sanding and filing similar to carving a sculpture? I cant wait to build my Reprap!by ahbtsang - General
Hi guys, I am new to reprap but I have used the ZCrop and Strasys machines before both SST and BST. I must say how amazing these commercial machines are designed! Now I got the chance to build my own Reprap, not yet started though still waiting for the parts to arrive, and doing some research on the host software. I am wondering, since Reprap doesnt print support materials yet, is there any softby ahbtsang - General