PierreB, I pretty much followed RichRap's instructions for building the extruder. I did have to create a spacer to move the extruder away from the smooth rods. Also, I changed the way I mounted the bed. So, I guess it's time to start working on Part III for what I've built. I'll start tomorrow and try to get it up in a few days.by JohnSL - Delta Machines
umdpru, I have two blog posts (so far) on building the 3DR "Simple" Delta Printer. The first one has a list of parts you'll need, as well as a list of parts to print out, showing pictures and with links. Building the 3DR "Simple" Delta Printer, Part I Building the 3DR "Simple" Delta Printer, Part II I need to write another blog post. I'm not completely happy with the extruder, so I was debatinby JohnSL - Delta Machines
Tomek, I never finished that version of the parts, nor did I ever put them on Github, which is why you can't find them. I do have a triangular version I could put up there: I haven't tested this version, but if you want, I can add the STL files to Github.by JohnSL - Delta Machines
There are a couple of reasons I went with RichRap's geared extruder. First, I was concerned that the direct-drive extruder wouldn't have enough force to push the filament through the Bowden tube. And second, I already had a hobbed bolt from my Printrbot Simple V1 (they switched to direct drive in V2). Let me know if the direct drive works, as I took it on faith that it would have problems ratherby JohnSL - Delta Machines
You mean like this: Yes, it works and there are no balance problems. I have been thinking about designing a new one that orients the spool so it's facing the extruder, so I'll put that higher on my to-do list.by JohnSL - Delta Machines
Here is an example. If you look on the right, you can see the Z artifacts I'm referring to. I've looked very closely under a microscope, and I can see that the problem is a result of slight variations in layer thickness, not shifting from side to side (the layer height is 0.2 mm). Some people say I'm trying too hard, and they have a hard time seeing these imperfections. And they're probably riby JohnSL - General Mendel Topics
I've been on a quest to improve the print quality on my MendelMax 2.0 ever since I got it last spring. The Z artifacts have been driving me crazy because it's hard to figure out what's causing them. I've done some prints on a Replicator 2 and the rows are perfectly aligned, and of exactly the same thickness. I have my MM 2 very well tuned now, and it's getting closer, but I'm still getting someby JohnSL - General Mendel Topics
umdpru, yes, I can export them as IGES or STEP. Do you have a preference? Also, is the one file in particular you want me to post first? That would be faster than exporting all the files. Finally, can you describe the problems you're having? It might be easier for me to add a configuration with variations if it's a simple change like modifying the size of a hole. I can post files later today (Iby JohnSL - Delta Machines
Here are some metal spools: These seem to be of a diameter that is common for delta printers that use Spectra line, which is 18mm. In fact, they're pretty much an exact replacement for the printed ones RichRap designed for his 3DR printer.by JohnSL - Delta Machines
Very cool! Keep the pictures coming.by JohnSL - Delta Machines
I completely edited this post after I discovered I'd measured the wrong design. On my 3DR "Simple" the distance between the posts is about 246.55 mm, so 0.8 times this = 197mm, which is very close to the 200mm that I used, and I found it worked quite well.by JohnSL - Delta Machines
I'm on a tablet now, so I can't provide a picture. If you want to make full use of your bed diameter, setting the rod lengths based on a. 30 degree angle when the head is centered won't allow you to use the full diameter. Here's why. If the rods are at 30 degrees from the vertical when the head is centered, you have a 30-60-90 triangle. So if the rods are 200 mm long, the print head might be 100by JohnSL - Delta Machines
You'll need to measure the actual length of your rods. There is a very helpful picture here:by JohnSL - Delta Machines
Thanks everyone for your kind words. I just posted Part II on building the 3DR "Simple" delta printer: . I've also updated Part I because I realized I was missing some parts in the parts list. One thing I should note is that I'm using the hobbed bolt that came with my original V1 Printrbot Simple, rather than the V2 drive gear. The hobbed bolt and geared extruder seem to provide more than enoughby JohnSL - Delta Machines
It's been a very busy few weeks at work. With the long holiday weekend, I finally had time to finish up the "final" version of my printer. I've gotten it printing, and it prints very well, so I've started to put together a series of blog posts on building the printer. I've just published the first in the series on building the 3DR "Simple" Delta printer: I spent quite a few hours on writing upby JohnSL - Delta Machines
Here is a quick update of my progress. I've started the final assembly and hope to have it printing again soon. In this photo, you can see the jig I've used to ensure the rods are all exactly the same length. I found this jig on Thingiverse here: . This part works like a champ, and once I've finished adding the last rod, I'll remove the jig and reuse the T nuts to mount the extruder. I've contby JohnSL - Delta Machines
Yes, all the parts are designed to be printed on a Printrbot Simple, which has a 100mm x 100mm bed. I don't know the maximum height off the top of my head, but it's less than 90mm.by JohnSL - Delta Machines
I finished printing all the parts for the top and assembled them, as you can see here: This time I included slots for zip ties so I can hold wires in place. I'm hoping that after I have all the wires in place it will look much neater this time. I'm almost ready to finish the assembly. I can reuse all the remaining parts (the extruder, effector plate, and hot end holder), so I just need to cutby JohnSL - Delta Machines
It's been a while since I posted a progress report. A couple weeks ago I tore apart the first version of my design and started to build the new version. I've recently finished the base and the new carriages, as you can see here: I fixed a number of issues I was having. Most importantly I provided more clearance between the spools and the base parts as I was having a lot of problems with bindinby JohnSL - Delta Machines
This thread is very cool. I'm wondering, has anyone hooked a servo up to a Rambo board? Looking at the Wiki information, I'm guessing I would need to hook it up to pin 1, which is connected to the PWMExt pin holes in the PCB. Is this correct? Also, for the 5V supply, is the pin labeled 5V always going to have regulated 5V that I can use for the servo motor? Thanks, -- Johnby JohnSL - General Mendel Topics
Jeromelab, the older files are still on Github. Here is how you can find older files. First, go to the history section. For example, here is a link to the STL folder history: In this case, you want the check-in that says "The first check-in of all files." After this check-in, I modified the parts to be stronger. Once you see this history, in the lower-right you can click "Browse code" and youby JohnSL - Delta Machines
As I mentioned above, I've been working on a redesign of this printer. I've taken care of the issues with the spools in this new design, and I've also made the base wider so you'll be able to use nearly the entire 170mm diameter bed. Here is what I have so far (I still have to redo the top):by JohnSL - Delta Machines
I'm using microswitch end stops, and I didn't make them adjustable in my current design because I figured adjusting them individually would just change the center location. And adjusting them all to change the Z height didn't seem like the right way to do it. I looked for the M666 command and couldn't find it on the wiki, and I also didn't find it in the source code in RichRap's version of Marliby JohnSL - Delta Machines
CAD321, I would suggest holding off a bit before you make the parts, as I've identified a list of things I'm going to change before the "official" release of this design. The files that are on Github are very much a work in progress. Here are some of the things I plan to change: Make it wider to allow about 160mm diameter print area Allow more clearance for the fishing line spools Make it easieby JohnSL - Delta Machines
Thanks cjdj3. I don't have a final cost of the extra parts yet. The cost I have is about $130, which does not include the pneumatic fittings ($6 for two) for the Bowden tube (about $8), or the tube itself. So figure an extra cost of $150 is about right. I'm using 450mm extrusion and 400mm rods, which with my current design gives a maximum print height of about 155mm. And yes, purchasing the Printby JohnSL - Delta Machines
Thanks, CidVilas. I have another question. I have my 3DR "Simple" assembled and everything is working, but I'm not printing just yet because I don't have the Z adjusted correctly. How did you adjust your Z? It seems like you have to download the firmware to adjust the Z. Is that correct? Or is there an easier way to adjust Z? One of the reasons I ask is because downloading new firmware to a Priby JohnSL - Delta Machines
For those of you who have working 3DR printers, what's your usable printing radius? I have my 3DR "Simple" almost running, and it looks like I'll be able to get about 140mm to 150mm diameter as the maximum printer area. I was curious to see how this compared with purebread 3DR printers.by JohnSL - Delta Machines
@jaydmdigital, yes, I printed the larger parts and was planning on going that route before ProfessorBean suggested I make the parts printable on the Printrbot Simple. The larger parts are strong because they're three pieces instead of nine. That being said, my new design for the nine pieces should be stronger than my old larger part (new one below). I've just updated the larger file (since I stiby JohnSL - Delta Machines
@ProfessorBean, I'm using SolidWorks 2011, so you should be able to open my files (but not the other way around). The new design should be a lot more stable. Last night I printed out two of the pieces and tried them out. They're very, very strong, so I think this will take care of the wiggle problem: I've also made some progress on mounting the hot end. Once again, I ended designing my own paby JohnSL - Delta Machines
Here is what I have in mind for the new, stiffer base pieces: There are two major changes I made. First, I've added an inner wall. So instead of having a U shape for the walls, the walls now go completely around. This makes a much stiffer box. Second, I added screws to both the top and the bottom, instead of along the center of each face. Having four points instead of two should greatly stiffby JohnSL - Delta Machines