dissidence, LOL! The fun never stops up here, have you ever tried to patch an old Hypalon inflatable? Don't look for tuolene... A2, both good suggestions. The chrome would hold up longer than the bare drill rod. It would flake off once worn through, but it is more wear resistant than the steel underneath.by Yvan - General
Hello Everyone, I'm still trying to get a hold of M8 smooth rod of the inox(aka stainless) variety. I'm making a few printers for others, and selling them at cost. We are trying to find good prices for things. The only thing I have not be able to source is this smooth rod. I've used M8 drill rod on a few machines, and it is okay. It is accurate and the linear bearings run well on it, but it canby Yvan - General
Tell us how it goes. I should add that I had to chop off about 5 mm from the bottom of the extruder support bracket with a band saw to clear the hot end aluminium plate. I'm going to fiddle with that right now and see if I can modify it at the 3D geometry level for the next machine.by Yvan - General
Okay, finally got the chance to take some photos... I've got the Eckertech hot end mounted under a Wade's style extruder. It is held onto the x carriage by the white (greg_wade_mount_i3) support bracket (which I can not find on Thingiverse) X Carriage I drilled two holes in the Eckertech heat sink that match the Wade's style extruder, and bolted it with two long bolts and those brass spacers.by Yvan - General
Très bonne idée!by Yvan - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Hi Bryan, I am busy right now, but I want to get a photo of this setup soon!by Yvan - General
Pour le moment exclusivement avec de l'ABS. C'est plus fort, et ça se colle bien avec de l'acétone.by Yvan - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
I half expected people to chime in and say Github is good for RepRap hardware projects, but I wouldn't know where to start. Around here Github seems to leave people wondering why it is set up the way it is. The wiki is chaos, that is for sure, but Github seems optimized for something else. Something we don't seem to be using collectively speaking. Where is the middle ground I don't know. I thinby Yvan - General
Hmmm, yes staying off of Github might be a good idea. I don't really see how it can work well with hardware. The wiki works because you can use photos and diagrams easily.by Yvan - General
Yes, those bearing seem unusually tight. The rubber seals on those cheap LM8UU bearings are very sticky. I've noticed they slack off a lot after a few days or more. I'm also using inexpensive drill rod. I've checked them, they are accurate, but each batch is slightly different. The bearings usually have a bit of play in them, they are not very accurate overall. If any contamination gets into thby Yvan - Reprappers
I didn't notice the belt type, but it is true GT2 belts are better(and get the 20 tooth pulleys). My Prusa i1 with the T2.5 belt creates ribbing patterns on the printed parts that match the belt pitch. The GT2 has a finer pitch and is less likely to do that. I'll be testing that soon on the Prusa i3by Yvan - Reprappers
The list looks good. I've built built one using high quality plywood salvaged from furniture. I would avoid particle board if possible although it could be made to work if done properly. I've only needed 4 stepper drivers for the RAMPS 1.4. Both of my Z axis motors are paired on one driver. Works well on two machines. Personally I've found no advantage of any kind with the Makerbot style Mechanby Yvan - Reprappers
Okay, I see what you mean now. If you can't find copper threaded rod or bolts, how about threading a short section yourself? If you are soldering some parts, maybe just silver soldering it to the heater block and then just threading the end where it meets the acorn nut... It would be nice to calculate the heat flow into the threaded rod past the heater block, maybe brass is all that is needed?by Yvan - General
So when you refer to the bottom brass bolt, that would be the brass 'acorn' nut on the end with the orfice? I'm not sure replacing it with aluminium would alter much, I suspect there is very little heat flow anywhere in that area. The plastic is already at its hottest temp, the nut is just acting as a physical channel. It could probably be made of any material that can handle the heat and wear.by Yvan - General
Does the hot end on your Huxley looks like this: RepRapPro Huxley hot end That style tends to radiate a lot of heat onto the plastic parts as they are printed, it becomes acute when building up one small part. Insulation under and around the heater block helps a lot. Any trick to move the hot end away from the small part is going to help. Some software can do it, sometimes I printed a few smalby Yvan - Reprappers
Dave, what kind of hot end are you using?by Yvan - Reprappers
sheck626 mentioned artifacts in the prints due to variations in the temps of the heat bed. What might those look like?by Yvan - Reprappers
cozmic, very interesting photos and comments! What went wrong with the nylon, it didn't stick to the platform and blobbed around the hot end?by Yvan - General
I haven't used PLA, only ABS so I'm not up to speed on that issue. Maybe someone with more experiance will chime in...by Yvan - Reprappers
There are several all metal designs that are easy to fabricate, just follow them closely. Don't improvise like I did. My first version jammed solid after working briefly, and it had a PTFE liner that makes it more tolerant of design flaws. My second version still has a PTFE liner, but it has worked very well right from the beginning. The PTFE liner is what is one of the things that allows mineby Yvan - Reprappers
I've purchased two Eckertech all metal hot ends. I've installed one in my Prusa i3, and will be testing it over the next couple of days. The second one is a retrofit design that will go into my Prusa i1/2 I've got nylon I want to print with soon. I did a few tests with a hot end that has a PTFE liner, but I don't want to push it.by Yvan - Reprappers
Srek, yes complexity is an issue. At the same time, the original design by Wabbax has no plastic. The plastic parts are the first to fail, especially if you are trying to print higher temperature plastics. Personally, I've been having difficulty sourcing PEEK, but maybe I'm not looking in the right places. I also designed a very robust and jam free hot end that needs no active cooling. It has onby Yvan - General
So what kind of problems did you experience with your QU-BD extruder?by Yvan - General
Dissolvable filament... sure can dissolve your bank account at $65 US für ein kilo! This kind of stuff isn't new though, hasn't it been available(expensively) from other companies for years?by Yvan - General
I've heard not so good things about the QU-BD design. How come it doesn't work so well? I have to add that a big part of the RepRap formula is simple functional designs that can be fabricated around the world in peoples home workshops with simple tools. They will always win out over anything more refined and demanding too fabricate. BTW, googling "Le Schtroumpf Grognon" might provide some amuseby Yvan - General
If it is ABS, maybe just glueing it together with acetone?by Yvan - General
Hello, Has anyone installed an Eckertech hot end on a Prusa i3? I passed on the J-head that was supposed to go on my i3 to someone who needed it more than I did. So far I've drilled holes to match the mounting holes for a Wade's style extruder into the aluminium Eckertech heat sink. If I extend the Wade's style mounting bolts down to reach the heat sink that should hold it in place well. Nextby Yvan - General
Nice job on that water cooled hot end, it is simple. I like it.by Yvan - General
Bonjour, j'ai toujours simplement boulonné l'extrudeur sur le charriot, sans entretoise. 10 kg de filament ABS plus tard aucun problème...by Yvan - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone