Looks to me like a combination of frame twist, wrong diagonal length in firmware (or wrong steps/mm), and poor geometry. To start with, measure your diagonal rod length from the centre of one ball, to the centre of the other ball, and put that into the firmware. Then go through your frame with a set of calipers, and ensure that the distance between towers is all exactly the same (to within 0.05by nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteDjDemonD I'm using e3d titan I installed mine over the weekend, and am quite impressed with it. The instructions are great, design is superb, the steps/mm they give you are spot on. Easy to retrofit to a flying extruder setup, you just need to: a) buy the bowden adapter, and b) push the little black retainer into the adapter BEFORE adding your bowden cable. Very happy.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Actually, rereading your reply, it seems that the limit isn't how fast the extruder steps pin is switching, it's a hard mm/s limit in firmware somewhere. I assume you've set Repetier to use eeprom? What's your extruder acceleration set to? Try sending this command: M201 X1000 Y1000 Z100 E6000 then try again.by nebbian - General
At 200 steps/mm I can get about 125 mm/s from a motor (Repetier, RAMPS, delta) before it maxes out. So doing the numbers means you'll top out at 9.3 mm/s -- very close to the 10 mm/s you've measured. There is a simple solution, change the jumpers underneath your extruder drive to use 2 microsteps instead of 16. Then change your steps/mm to 337.5.by nebbian - General
What's your extruder steps/mm set to?by nebbian - General
The wheel has already been invented: Just sayin'by nebbian - General
Quoteo_lampe I doubt that an optical mouse sensor can detect the non existent dents in super soft black TPU/TPE filament. ( the only flex filament I've tried so far ) In the picture above, the dents in TPE are clearly visible. I'm leaning more and more towards an implementation of the parent idea, with a stylus that pokes into the filament. Perhaps an optical endstop could be used to detecby nebbian - General
That... does not compute. Did you adjust the homed height after adjusting steps/mm? Is the first layer squished out of all recognition?by nebbian - Delta Machines
btw Repetier has functions to pause the print in the event of a jam.by nebbian - General
I'm going to rename TPE as "Houdini". A filament sensor that can detect this sort of failure, and immediately pause the print, would make the difference between having to restart a print, vs clearing the issue and resuming the print.by nebbian - General
Quoteo_lampe An indirect way of sensing filament jam would be to observe (Firmware-internal) the relation between extruder heater-PWM and extruded material. A sudden drop in PWM indicates that no new filament reaches the heating chamber, while the extruder is still pushing. That won't work immediately after mid-print temp changes, but it's a starting point ( and its for free ) You're a clever,by nebbian - General
Chances are it's a brushed DC motor inside, with a rectifier. You might be able to flip the wires around to make it go backwards. That might have other issues, for example does it have a self tightening chuck? For the price of some end mills it might not be worth it.by nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteOrigamib Design a better path for the filament? I have only ever had this when either changing filament mid print and I don't pause the print, or ninjaflex. I'm still yet to find a decent way to print this horrible stuff. Yeah, flexible filaments. I'm using TPE, which (I think) is softer than ninjaflex. If there was a way to detect filament flow (or pressure) _after_ the extruder, then iby nebbian - General
Is the volumetric rate more like: (4688 * (((1.75/2)^2)*π))/(26*60) = 7.22 mm3/s?by nebbian - Delta Machines
Wow, that's well fast enough. Many thanks for taking the time to do that test for me, I really appreciate it.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Looks pretty good to me Lykle! One issue with that class of design is that it doesn't detect when the filament makes its way out of the filament guide path (after the extruder gear) and bypasses the hotend altogether. I've had a few of these failures lately, it would be great if there was some way of detecting that the filament is no longer going through the hotend. I've no idea how to do thatby nebbian - General
Thanks for that, yes, 1.75mm. I don't print much PLA either, but I've noticed it on some larger 3DHubs orders where I wanted to print reasonably quickly. ABS is no issue, but then again I don't normally go to 0.3mm on that either. If I could get 70 mm/s print speed at 0.3mm layer height in PLA, then I'd be a happy camper. I've run the numbers, and they suggest that I should be OK to get thereby nebbian - Delta Machines
Hey DJ, How are you finding the Titan with that stepper? I ordered a Titan last week, and am about to put it onto my mini, but went with a larger 28N-cm motor to get more push. I am running into issues at the moment with my direct drive extruder where I'm hitting the limits of push, especially with PLA at 0.3mm layer heights. If I turn the current up a bit, the stepper gets so hot that the heby nebbian - Delta Machines
Here's a thought: Diesel injectors. They have the pintle already, can withstand ridiculously high pressures and temperatures, and are easily fast enough. The only issue I can see is that diesel is a lot less viscous than plastic...by nebbian - General
By the way Lykle, that green cutaway drawing above is excellent!! Man I wish I had the skills to make a picture like that. I think that to reduce the amount of compliance of the nozzle, you could use a smaller diameter piezo element, however I'm not going to get into how to design such a beast!!by nebbian - General
QuoteDjDemonD This is where theory is all well and good but you'll have to try it to see if it works. I would estimate that the piezo disc bends more like this (apologies for back of fag-packet diagram): This is obviously exaggerated to demonstrate the point, the amount it bends is only 0.15mm. The entire disc bends, the grey area (the piezo-electric material) bends with it. So its not just tby nebbian - General
Check out the "flow hive". From memory their prototypes were 3D printed. #by nebbian - General
Your steps/mm are probably set to 80 right now. You need to change them to 100. In configuration.h, change this line: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 80, xx} to: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100, 100, 100, xx} (note that the xx depends on your particular extruder) If using EEPROM, you can change the steps/mm by sending: M92 X100 Y100 Z100 M500by nebbian - Delta Machines
Either your steps/mm is WAY out, or your manual home position is suddenly higher because you've flipped the carriages. If your steps/mm is that far out then you'll have no chance of printing a flat first layer (assuming you've measured the diagonal rods correctly and put that value into firmware). If you home, then put a caliper on a carriage, then command the effector to move down 100 mm, howby nebbian - Delta Machines
PETG is pretty inert, it's what I'd be investigating. It will handle the heat of a beehive with no issues. I'd look at "natural" PETG.by nebbian - General
I'd be more looking at whether the whole board is resetting, and trying to home.by nebbian - General
QuoteDjDemonD Could not the 0.16mm just be first layer squash? I know you said you've compensated for levelling but I print 0.3mm first layers so 0.16 is just half a layer. Try printing the object scaled in x2 in z see if it's still 0.16mm or whether it's 0.32? He's already tried that, 3 times the height, 3 times the error.by nebbian - Delta Machines
That error is consistent with what I've measured over many belts. Set the steps/mm to 80.3mm, and your first layer will probably be flatter (assuming you've actually measured your diagonal rods accurately). For reference my steps per mm need to be 160.6 (calculated value is 160) to get perfectly sized parts. Halve this value due to my using 0.9 degree stepper vs your 1.8 degree steppers, and wby nebbian - Delta Machines
I've had no issues talking to many different CH340 devices on OSX.by nebbian - General