QuoteGrAndAG QuoteDRTak #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100, 100, 100, 95} AFAIR, in our config should be specified 80 steps per mm for XYZ due to 20 teeth pulleys we have. 100 is for 16 teeth pulleys. You can check it in calculator. Meanwhile I have a question - what the correct voltage reference should be set on drivers for out steppers? Man I wished I would have seen this earlier. Alby DRTak - Delta Machines
Also, my Y and X axis on my Kossel do not match up with the picture of the X, Y axis of Repetier. My x is where the Y is and my Y is where the x is. So I moved the wires to match the picture. Now my X is X and my Y is Y. Otherwise when I was printing. The picture imaged and the print was inverted. Now I am having an Issue. There is this link on calibration but I cannot find M503 or M501 commanby DRTak - Delta Machines
So I am using this to calibrate: But for some reason my Repetier doesnt show any number when I type M501. So I am going to do a mashup up of that links calibration and Sintrons calibration procedure which is altering configuration.h where it says: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100, 100, 100, 95}.by DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian QuoteDRTak I am in the process of filing down the rods. But in the interim, how do you hide the wires to make this look pretty. I had friend come over and he was NOT impressed. He had this look like it looks like a rats nest. Self-closing braided wrap is really handy for this: You can also build a pedestal to put your power supply and cables so that everything is all in one plaby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak I printed a knob for my LCD screen. And the hole that fits the knob is 2mm too wide. Is there an easy fix for this? do you print on the blue tape? That should do, I think. I print on aluminum sintron bed. But I use kapton tape on the bed since aluminum is not sticky enough for abs. But the knob in general is too wide. It hits the sensor thing on the lcd screenby DRTak - Delta Machines
I printed a knob for my LCD screen. And the hole in the knob is 2mm too wide. Is there an easy fix for this? The print took 19min. And it looks really good. Just not right size. Also, for endstop placement I found the shortested distance between the carriage and one of the endstops once I had it at x0 yo z0. Then I cut a piece of wood that size. I then used it as a template to adjust the heightby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper thanks for the pictures. They help a lot. I cut the belts, and i've decided to adjust the pulley and the top corners later. I just installed the endstops with the endstop brackets from the second page of this topic. they fit, but there is a little problem that you cant get to the screw to move the endstop up and down without physicly removing the endstop first. Ive tried to measuby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 I published some printable cable tidies to manage the homing switch wires running down the towers of a Kossel here . I run them all down the back of the Z tower. Thats what I was looking for thanks. Im not at the point where I can print anything correctly. I bought a whole spool of ABS. But I think I am too noobish for that. All the files on thinigverse appear to be for PLA? I thinkby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotexile6 Just a tip for those with the melted looking cubes. I had this problem on pla with my micromake. Its due to not having a cooling fan on the nozzle while printing. try aiming a fan at the bed while printing and see if it improves. OK. I will do that. I was worried the bed would get too cold and there would be bad adhesion. Im using abs. also THA_Reaper. Thanks. Ill try to tuck all thby DRTak - Delta Machines
I am in the process of filing down the rods. But in the interim, how do you hide the wires to make this look pretty. I had friend come over and he was NOT impressed. He had this look like it looks like a rats nest.by DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteTha_Reaper Can someone with a working kit post closeups of their carriages? I have some doubts and questions about them... 1: I just need to cut off the belt where the 2 sides meet inside the carriage? 2: As shown on the attached picture, the place where the belt locks in the carriage is about 2-3 mm more sunken towards the extrusion then the free-running belt is. Is it OK likeby DRTak - Delta Machines
Here is a picture of my carriage but I am a noob. Whatever you do do not cut it too short. Mine looks short because Sintrons pdf is old and wrong. You dont need the tensioner on top anymore. I didnt know this so I cut mine too short. Then I pushed the top triangle to the end of the aluminum. And luckily I was able to squeeze the belt to barely work. I would suggest a lot of tension. Otherwise yoby DRTak - Delta Machines
I dont know which is better. Your cube or mine. I finally got it to work. Thanks all for your help. My 1st test cube didnt turn out that well since the ABS spools snapped during the early part of the print. So I quickly fixed it and hand fed the line again. Thus there is a large gap in the cube. 2nd print. Not pictured. The Kapton tape tore off from my z probe not being fully retracted. So theby DRTak - Delta Machines
Sorry I meant I did do M119. And the endstops work. Then I went through the G28 and G29 and got everything working again. But I am new to all of this and my calibration screen shot looks good to me. What is wrong with the number? I dont even know what that all means.by DRTak - Delta Machines
M119 does work and it is calibrating correctlyby DRTak - Delta Machines
Thanks so much for the reply. I have been testing over and over and calibration is done. I have found that it homes great and goes back to zero. I will try and test and see if I can now run the system with the fans ON and it will hopefully extrude instead of shutting the whole system down. And more lately, after I hit print. It crashes into the sidewall? And I have to hit the KIll switch on theby DRTak - Delta Machines
tempgcode/2342.gcode, 2544 lines 436.68mm of filament used in this print The print goes: - from 88.29 mm to 111.71 mm in X and is 23.43 mm wide - from 88.29 mm to 111.71 mm in Y and is 23.43 mm deep - from 0.00 mm to 10.00 mm in Z and is 10.00 mm high Estimated duration: 33 layers, 0:08:17 I dont see any G28 or G29 in there? attached a picture of where I am at and the gcode for the cube. Alsoby DRTak - Delta Machines
So I have a fan on the F1 polyfuse and the polyfuse doesnt heat up that much. I checked the inline automotive fuse and its intact. I checked my pronterface and you are right. It was a square printbed. So I adjusted the values to be a round bed. Now it looks great on pronterface. But When I load the test cube the cube is off the plate bed in space. So then I went to plate building tool and hit CENby DRTak - Delta Machines
Hello all. This is my first printer build. I am also having the same issues that you all are having but worse. This is a doubly whammy for me. This is my first 3d printer ever. I have no knowledge of gcode with the exception of what I am learning from youtube and making the unit. It has been 1.5 months and all the electronics are in place. I am constantly talking with "James" of sintron. Initiallby DRTak - Delta Machines