Hi every one. I have a small question about z-endstops. I know where to put my endstops for X and Y, but I do not know where to place Z. For me, it would be logical to place it at max (that's when my bed is completely down), but when I look online at other builds, I can see that they have placed them at minimum (ie when the bed is completely up and close to the extruder). However, I can not seeby flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Right now, I tighten it by first loosening the front pulley mount, on the right side. Then I cut the strips on the right side of the extruder carriage and tighten the belts. It's a bit difficult, but it works for now. However, as I said, I'm looking for a better method. Can you link to a picture of your solution. It sounds interesting.by flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
No, not bad like that, but even though they are quite tight, you can still see a bit of flexing when moving. I can also hear some audible clicks from the belt as it moves around the pulleys of the motors, after I tighten them. Most likely, the steel core is broken somewhere inside the belt. But I have to say that the quality came to an entirely new level as the belts were completely tightened.by flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Are those steel core belts? Yes, they are steel belts and they are terrible. They must be stretched with so much force that my fingertips hurt for hours afterwards. I can not recommend them for this purpose. Unfortunately they were the only ones I had when I put the belts on, but I have already ordered 5 meters of fiberglass belts.by flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist It's hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like the belt segment that attaches to the extruder carriage on the lower left side isn't parallel to the X axis guide rail. You're right. When I put it on, I did not place it right. However, I will take all the belts of this afternoon to tighten them, and I will put them back on the right way.by flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Quoteo_lampe The frame is not bad at all, but the idler pulleys would be much better aligned when supported from top and bottom. That is definitely my primary concern. However, I have not yet found the perfect way to solve it. Of course, I could easily make it with a square, hollow aluminum profile, but I'd really like a better way to tighten the belts when I'm already redesigning this part. I'by flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Hi every one I have now crossed a big milestone in my 3d printer project. I have started making the first prints on it. I began just over 10 months ago with no experience in 3D printers, and a Prusa style design I posted here on this forum. However, I quickly became convinced that a coreXY printer had much more potential. The idea of my design is that I should easily be able to change things, anby flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Quotedc42 Pressing + must increase the distance between the nozzle and the bed. So if it is the bed that moves in the Z axis, pressing + should move the bed down. Yes of course. Otherwise, all my g-code would have to be rewritten before it was printed. I was just momentarily confused by the graphical interface. Quotethe_digital_dentist I wrote a blog post on setting up firmware for a coreXY mby flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Hello everyone. I have a small, and a bit stupid question. I am setting up the controller on my new printer, and I realize I do not know what's up and down on a corexy printer. My design is a normal CoreXY, but I do not know which way my z-axis should move when I press plus in my control program. I think there may be arguments for both ways, but I can not find an answer online.by flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Go to Path->Object to Path. This will convert the text to paths. Inkscape stores text like this, as a text-object, which can be edited later on. We need it to be paths, that can be converted to g-code: While your text is still selected, go into extensions-> Gcodetools-> Path to Gcode: Enter the Preferences tab and make sure the folder, the code is stored in, exist: Go back to Pathby flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Start downloading and installing inkscape ... You know the routine ... In Inkscape, go to Extension-> Gcodetools-> Orientation Points: Just use the default values and press Apply: This will create your building area. Unfortunately, there is an error in the plugin, and the point 100; 0 is not set correctly in inkscape. Double-click the object so that you can choose the right point as I'by flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Quoteo_lampe PS: What's the name of the font you've used and which inkscape-extension did you use to generate gcode? ( I'm getting bored of milling "B"s only ) I'm at work right now, but I'll make a quick guide when I get home. Just remember that I'm not an expert on inkscape or g-code.by flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
What about a smooth pulley between 3 and 4 that pushes the belt inwards? Quotethe_digital_dentist The problem with any of those pulleys is that the bearings they use are small and the bore is very small. You can't just stand those bearings on a screw because the belt tension will make the screw flex and then you'll have alignment problems with the belts. You have to support the screw's top andby flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Quoteo_lampe Yesterday I tested my CNC-mill for the first time and took your gcode file. With DuetWiFi and RRF it looks like the math is correct in RRF. ( but the mechanical accuracy needs some tweaking ) Thats good to see. I am also going to update to a 32-bit controller at a later time, but as long as I'm not done with the printer, I will stick to Mega + RAMPS .. Quote691175002 Modern CAMby flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Quoteo_lampe Maybe you're the first who actually uses the arc commands with Marlin? Or there's a bug in the inkscape plugin? PS: Just opened the gcode file in CNC-Viewer and it looked OK. So it seem to be Marlin messing up the data ( surprise, surprise ) Ok, I uploaded the Repetier firmware to my controller, and despite some problems configuring the firmware, I got it to work: I'm very surpriby flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
I have made a new picture of the problem. Here's the speed of 25mm/s, and I've used A4988 stepper drivers with 1/16 microstepping (I've obviously corrected Marlin's configuration):by flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Speed? Acceleration? Jerk/junction deviation? Yes sorry, I should have said that : Jerk: 20 mm/s Acceleration: 300 mm/s/s Speed: 50 mm/s I'm using the DRV8825 stepper driver, set to 1/32 microstepping. QuoteVDX ... most likely the printer is loosing steps ... The problem is very constant. If I print the B several times, they will look like carbon copies, and if Iby flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Hi I'm building my first 3D printer, and in order to challenge myself a bit, and to get as much time out of the project as possible, I have chosen to make my own design (highly inspired by people here on the forum and others places on the internet ). My design is coreXY, made of V-slot profiles, and for the time being I use a RAMPS controller with the latest Marlin firmware. I have finished theby flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Oh no. This is really embarrassing! Yes I had set it to half-steps instead of 1/16. I discovered it because my big boy was disappointed that it was not moving yet. When I put all the belts on, I could see that when I moved it 10 mm in octoprint it moved significantly longer. Actually exactly 8 times longer. The reference image I used to set the jumpers from was up side down compared to my RAMPby flydeprutten - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
That is a wonderful document. Thanks. My max acceleration is set to 300 mm/s/s (no thought is behind this number). If I set a desired speed of 100mm/s (6000mm/min) I get a peak back emf of 5.8V and an approximate back emf of 5.5V. 12V, according to what you write on duet3Ds page, should be ok. But I can not get over 25 mm / s (1500 mm / min).by flydeprutten - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Hi, I'm building my first 3D printer, and I'm struggling with a challenge. I'm testing my stepper motors and, although I can make them move correctly, I can not make them move very quickly without them stalling. If I move the engine more than approx. 1500 mm/min in octoprint they stop moving and just make a terrible noise. The engines run freely, I have not yet put a load on them. My printer isby flydeprutten - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Thank you for your input. :-) Could you possibly clarify why you would choose 17HS19-1684S1. As I understand it, one should preferably choose a stepper motor with a low corrent, otherwise the motor driver may become too hot. 17HS5412-3 will be able to deliver a high holding torque at a low corrent. Is that not preferable?by flydeprutten - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Hi every one. I am in search of some stepper motors for my project, and I have a few in mind. However, I encountered these motors, and can not quite figure out whether they are workable (I can not really find anybody online, who have used them). I will initially use a RAMPS with A4988 drivers for my printer. Will they work with my controller? ACT Motor GmbH 17HS5412-3 Step Angle 1,8° Rated Voltby flydeprutten - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
QuoteDjDemonD That looks like a solid machine. My only thoughts are 1) if possible don't cantilever your hotend from the rail in that way, consider instead using 2 rails in a horizontal pair for your x-axis and placing the hot end between them. If I change my corexy this would be one thing I would do. Your using metal x carriage and hotend clamp so the nozzle movement should be small but its a goby flydeprutten - General
Ok, I have restarted my project, and tried to incorporate your excellent advice. I have gone for a corexy design with the idea that it will later be easier to wrap in the machine to print ABS. I have also placed all stepper motors outside the frame and all the parts within the frame is made of aluminum or steel (except the cooler and the belts). All custom parts and mounts are designed in aluminby flydeprutten - General
As a new user on this forum, I feel a little bad about starting this discussion about rails. It really was not my intention. Just one more question. Will a coreXY design, where the bed moves in the z-axis be a better idea? This will give me a box design that might not be as beautiful (I think), but it will give me much more space, and I have the ability to isolate the printer area. I also theorby flydeprutten - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist You can print very small objects and even large single walled vases in ABS on an unenclosed 3D printer, but if the objects are long and narrow or have any bulk they will tend to pull themselves apart at the layer boundaries. Designing the machine to print ABS is much easier than adding the capability later. Designing for ABS includes easy enclosure, moving electronics aby flydeprutten - General
Thank you all for your good advice. I'm going back to the design and rethink things. I'm leaning a little to make a box design and certainly change the beds size of the machine (can hear that this was a big mistake ). I do not expect that this project will be cheap, easy or anything I finish in the next several months. But I will continue.by flydeprutten - General
Quotecozmicray Wow you invented a Mendelmax 2 The design was actually heavily influenced by this printer: Openbuilds v-slot z axis for Lulzbot Taz 4/5 Printersby flydeprutten - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist If you ever intend to print ABS you will need to enclose the printer and keep it warm inside. It's best to plan for that now. That means use a frame design that makes enclosure easy and plan for the electronics to be away from the warm print chamber. Do I really need to enclose the entire print area to print in ABS? I had the understanding that it was just the print beby flydeprutten - General