if they run hot and you are concerned, then mount fans on them. your current settings may be too high. also do you disable your motors when not in use? use enable line. what stepper driver are you using? I read one of your earlier posts that you had makerbot 2.3 drivers. all you can do with those is lower the current and use enable line. also what motors are you using. this driver works withby jamesdanielv - General
download notepad+++ here it is a free open source editor. use this program to open up and look at your gcode.then select edit->eol conversion ->unix. this ensures that the end of line type is correct for firmware gcode interpreter. Is this the problem?, gee i don't know. but it may help with other issues. with notepad++ just select view->show symbols->show all characters andby jamesdanielv - General
for the warping issues... try a lower temp in extrusion and bed temp. nylon Glass transition temperature: 50C. abs glass transition temp 100C-110C (from memory no web link, sorry) IMHO so the reason the part is warping, is it is folding not warping. try a heated bed temp of 40-60C and lowering extruder temp. the base of the plastic is folding from all the pressure and weight of the top andby jamesdanielv - General
i would not suggest powering complex gated electronics with a cheap wall wart unless highly filtering the incoming dc voltages. if you use a wall wart, be sure to design noise isolation circuit containing at least a 1000uf capacitor to reduce line ripple, and noise spikes. you may also want to diode protect and direction control the input voltage. let us know how it works for you.by jamesdanielv - General
the ones you listed will work fine as mechanical endstops. the rollers on this are not necessarily needed, but also not bad. of course you will want specifics about hooking up limit switches as well. i did not see in detail how they are hooked up on gen6 wiki page. if one was to use different switches, one would need to know what pin goes to common for example. also if you update the firmwareby jamesdanielv - General
I'm pretty sure that they all need pull up resistors. you could set the firmware to pull up internal pin resistors. if the firmware uses arduino in code in void setup write something like this below pinMode(endstopXYZ, INPUT); sets pin as input digitalWrite(endstopXYZ, HIGH); // when an input is set high this enables pull up 10k resistors most limit switches have 3 pins. one side release conby jamesdanielv - General
do people prefer tiled heaters for simplicity in construction and cost, or do people prefer a large heated bed with holes in it to provide for vacuum? the idea hear is to use a raised heater bed, with air space in between to act as an accumulator for a week vacuum that is generated by exhaust fans. there should be enough pull to keep a paper kapton tape conveyor on strait and flat. this design isby jamesdanielv - General
suggests you try to look for 'steel distributors' if looking locally. here is the supplier parts list off of reprap mendel web page here are the sellers that have mechanical parts. some of them sell rods. * McMaster-Carr - ships to US addresses only (online) - one stop supplier for all the non-RR mechanical parts of Mendel. * Fastenal - Canada and US (stores/online) - supplies allby jamesdanielv - General
experiment. run with faster feed rate over the bridge. it is easier to modify feed rate rather than change flow rate just for the bridge. experiment a little. try 1.1-1.2 feed rate over bridges. IMHOby jamesdanielv - General
you could drill into a 6mm nylon nut. cut the bottom of the nut afterward to allow for some play. I'm sure that someone here sells 6mm bushings. if you need to go 6mm use steel rods . upgrade to 8mm when possible.by jamesdanielv - General
I made a heated bed a long time ago, and made it for the rapman. Here is the link on thingiverse . BTW it works better with kapton on top rather than the back side of board (no copper on this side) i did not use it long, because it cracked its surrounding support because it was glued in. I would recommend that the heated bed be taped down, or bolted loosely with slightly undersized bolts sby jamesdanielv - General Mendel Topics
look into heekscad. you can import stl files and save as a single stl. just install the application, and open up your main stl, then import everything else. I don't use solid works, but here is some information on importing stl files.by jamesdanielv - General
with 19200baud or lower , you may want to reduce repsnappers queue buffer. the reason is because it is so much slower than 115200, that all of your bandwidth is used recieving data. the arduino has very little time left to send data, and process without the input buffer filling up completely. this would be different if the arduino was running in a duplex mode where it sent and recieved data at thby jamesdanielv - General
can you show a picture of it? thxby jamesdanielv - General
Is your ooze bane unchecked in skein forge? In repsnapper are you using a queue buffer of 1 or 4? And what baud rate are you using? Thx. the video actually looks quite good excluding your issues.by jamesdanielv - General
Nophead is right about abs curling at lower temps. I run my heated bed at 150deg constantly. it solves most of the curling issues, but at the sake of the bottom layer being more squished. Another thing you might consider is a slower feed rate and lower flow rate for first layer. slow down feed rate for 1st layer perimeter to .25 and compensate 1st layer flow rate through experimentation.by jamesdanielv - General
already shipped. check your pm message!by jamesdanielv - General
sorry for the blurry image, i just took the two boards and compared them . But both icsp headers are same pin out. The direction may be different so be sure to reference pins. at least pin 1 is numbered. as far as i understand the connection is standard. here is the atmel wiki here is a picture of the pin-out for icsp connector. just to be sure verify pin out of sanguino here atmelby jamesdanielv - General
Nophead, have you done any work with separate gcode files positioning them in different places on the bed? for example 100% fill pulleys, next to 40% fill vertex, different gcode files, offset x/y to each other? If you have tried it let me know the pro's and con's to it. so far the only issue i see is that i need to simulate the build to make sure the tool never crashes into an object or the plby jamesdanielv - General
I have the regular clear 3mm pla without color additives. if you pm me with your address I will ship some out your way. I live in Oregon. could send you 4 meters worth. no need to replace, only a few bucks.by jamesdanielv - General
to answer the question on how fast my nozzle tip heats up: it takes about 300seconds for my rap man, and about 180seconds for my other printers. If you have pla, you can touch the feedstock end to the tip, if it melts then you know you are above 160deg c. as per nopheads post here ABS softens at 90C, melts at 105C, can be extruded at ~180C but needs to be ~240C to bond strongly to itself.by jamesdanielv - General
slice and dice seems like it is usable is it not? i don't know if it will work with WINE in ubuntu, but on windows it should work. Yes it is VB. if anything you could learn from the way slice and dice works. there are some free slicer applications for the medical field that are written in c++ are there any special features this program had you can remember? please add solved to the title ifby jamesdanielv - General
this is not new, but it seems to be getting a resurgence there is also a program called net-fab but it think you are referring to the above. i did not link the download directly, i linked to the blog with the download link in itby jamesdanielv - General
Here is data on ni chrome wire. a few issues First the ni chrome gets to over 1400C before it fails. Meaning if it is on all the time it has the potential to burn down a lot of things besides plastic. It does not heat evenly. a small section can get all the heat energy and melt apart It does not solder so you will need to use crimps, and it oxidizes copper wire. Also there is a specific pby jamesdanielv - General
what version of firmware are you using? also what board are you using? thxby jamesdanielv - General
I don't know if this is the cheapest, and actually i think it is quite expensive. here is an example website that has software you download and can have them manufacture your boards. i just did a google search there also is a word of warning with these vendors. they do not output gerber files they prevent it so you will be forced to use there service. I think they do import them thougby jamesdanielv - General
several yeas ago i used copper tape and silver ink to draw circuits inside a comm port connector and connect to an 8 pin dip chip. it seemed like a grand idea at the time, and it did speed up and simplify making of the circuit. it worked ok as long as everything afterward was super glued. this is an old trick used by hobbyist to ensure copper does not corrode on-board and to increase board streby jamesdanielv - General
if you are using a version of skienforge and it is not showing a setting on the page, go and look for the raft.cvs file. The file is tab delimited, so be careful to write over the old values, and save the data. so if raft is 1 and you want to make it 2, just cut 1 and type 2 in its place then save the file.by jamesdanielv - General
ABS plastic is known to be a polyamide that is hygroscopic meaning it expands with water in air and can expand greater than .1% per day of its size in area when exposed to moist air. So ABS plastic can be sized, and then shipped to you, and it will need to be resized again. The best method to ship is in an airtight bag. Just a quick comment on drilling out the holes. If you use a power drill, yoby jamesdanielv - General
here it is in openscad upper x lower x thanks to vic!! btw eriks part is also openscadby jamesdanielv - General