Did you change the thermistor setting in your firmware? According to the J-head Lite V2 Thingiverse page the hotend uses a Honeywell 100k thermistor (Digikey # 480-3135-ND). This is different then the default thermistor set in the SmartRap firmware. A quick glance at the thermistortables.h shows they are quite different from one another. So while you think you are at 220C, you may actually beby milt - Smart_Rap
Okay. Upon close inspection and re-measurement I can say that I was wrong. X and Y axes are nearly spot-on 2.5cm. Z-axis however is about 0.5mm short. Not bad. Could be backlash on the Z-axis nut, low extruder rate, or low hot-end temperature (?). I'll investigate.by milt - Smart_Rap
BackEMF - Yes a cutting board, but not from Ikea... Had been unused for ages but now it has a good re-purpose. Markstephen - They are 48mm steppers and are really only too long by 0.5mm or so. Taller Y-ends or a modified J-head mount arm to move the hot end down a couple millimeters would both fix it. Your J-head Lite mount is working wonderfully although there were a few issues getting the Mby milt - Smart_Rap
Thanks, madmike8! I haven't had any problems with the J-head Lite V2, although I don't have many hours on it yet. Seems to do great with the PLA I have at 205-210C.by milt - Smart_Rap
Hi everyone, Thought I'd share my Smartrap build now that I am finally printing. I sourced everything myself and bought printed parts from Ebay. 48mm steppers, J-head Lite V2, markstephen's J-head Lite mount (rightie) for servo-less leveling, and vinyl tubing for Z-coupler. Printer went together pretty easily with the exception of a few snags... fitting the bowden tube in particular. Biggestby milt - Smart_Rap
Quoteregpye I found it much easier to put the nut on the outside of the extruder and also use the clamping hook on the bolt that is closest to the nut. I stopped using that type of drive drive extruder and designed my own geared type. Will posy some photos later. Wish I had seen this post last night! I struggled for a good while trying to get that nut deep enough into the well to have a clear sby milt - Smart_Rap
Hi everyone. I'm ordering the last few bits for my Smartrap build but I am having trouble understanding how the Bowden tube connects to the base plate and hot-end. I seem to recall that some sort of brass coupling was used to connect to the base plate / extruder along with the "tongue" piece... Can someone provide a link to that part for me? Also, I am using a J-head lite V2 with markstephan'by milt - Smart_Rap
Is there a bowden version available?by milt - For Sale
Just saw that some PLA color spools are on sale at Radioshack. $30/kg with free shipping... Anyone used this stuff? Any good?by milt - General
I believe that is right, SamS. I actually spliced the 5v standby line into a USB connector so my Arduino is getting powered through USB (by way of a Raspberry Pi). But reading the RAMPS wiki it sounds like you are on the right track (5v standby to VCC, D1 diode removed). QuoteRAMPS 1.4 Wiki The VCC pin can be connected to your ATX's 5Vsb to continuously power the Arduino from your ATX power suby milt - Controllers
vreihen is right, use the purple 5v standby line. I just did it and it works great.by milt - Controllers
Got it all wired up and it works great! Only problem I ran into was that the firmware I had installed on the Arduino did not have PS_DEFAULT_OFF defined. Therefore when I plugged in the power supply the RAMPS got 12V. Since the RAMPS was already powered up I couldn't connect the RPi to the Arduino/Ramps... It would try to connect then say "Machine State: Closed". Not sure if this is default bby milt - Controllers
Awesome! Thanks for the clarification, Noobman. I think I understand most of what you are saying... I'll take the rest on the faith that you are smarter than me. Thanks again.by milt - Controllers
Has anyone thought about how to add a heated bed on the Smartrap? Is it as easy as sticking a PCB heat bed under the glass and insulating the bottom? Seems like there would be potential for the printed bed mounts to melt...by milt - Smart_Rap
I am planning on powering the Arduino from the RPi with USB. I'm actually doing that right now with a 2A wall wart powering the RPi and USB to the Arduino/RAMPS stack. Haven't run into any problems yet, but I don't have anything connected to the RAMPS... I have an Edimax wifi dongle installed and the official Raspberry Pi Camera module, so the Pi itself is consuming a bit of power. Any ideaby milt - Controllers
Thanks for the detailed answers. I really appreciate it. As for my question about the 5v load, I found this on the reprap wiki... not sure how I missed it before. QuoteMany PC PSUs (not all) require a base load on the 5V rail to work properly. Connecting an old CD drive or a 12V light bulb (into the 5V rail, see picture) are well proven methods to get this load. Wether you need a base load orby milt - Controllers
I've done quite a bit of googling and think I have this figured out, but I would like someone to double check me. The Goal: Use an ATX power supply to provide 5v standby to power a Raspberry Pi which is connected (and powering) the Arduino / RAMPS stack. When ready to print, RPi will send G-Code to RAMPS to turn on the ATX power supply (via PS-ON pin) and provide the 12V to RAMPS for steppers,by milt - Controllers