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I'm going to be building a Mendel soon, and I'm looking to give my old ponoko repstrap Darwin to a good home.
* Definitely a fixer-upper. Only request it if you have a serious interest in getting it working.
* Includes three stepper drivers, but no other electronics boards (Extruder controller, motherboard, and power supply will be required)
* The x belt slips a bit, and some of the parts are c
by
dbenoy
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Canada Waterloo RUG
Oh wait.. I think maybe A6 means analog input maybe? For the bed thermistor?
Sorry I'm really new at electronics.. I'm a software developer by trade, and it's hard trying to figure out that page with google translate..
by
dbenoy
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Reprappers
Thanks for the advice. I'll find a lower powered heater. Apparently there's a pretty wide selection of engine heater pads, although they're a bit pricy.. cheapest I could find that would suit my needs is about $50USD .. but it's self adhesive and has probably been thoroughly tested for fire safety so that's not so bad.
I google translated the heated wolfbed link above, and it seems that connec
by
dbenoy
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Reprappers
rhmorrison Wrote:
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> You can use the Heated WolfBed solution from
> Stoffel15.
> This solution is also being sold completely
> assembled by GRRF.
> In fact, nophead was the one that gave Stoffel15
> the idea!
> Seems to work great and you use the A6 output on
> the extruder board.
> No power problems since it only d
by
dbenoy
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Reprappers
nophead Wrote:
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> The NIF5003 MOSFETs have that rating, but only
> when given adequate heat sinking. There is no heat
> sinking on the extruder controller so you probably
> wont get much more than 2A before they get hot and
> shut down unless you add some heat sinks and / or
> a fan.
>
> Also I doubt the PCB tracks an
by
dbenoy
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Reprappers
Hi! I'm planning on setting up a heated bed for my mendel (once the parts arrive, anyway), and I will have a spare extruder controller in addition to the one controlling my extruder, so I'm thinking of using that for the heated bed.
According to this page:
----
"The first electrical question that arises is obviously: how much power is needed to keep the bed at the right temperature? I run my b
by
dbenoy
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Reprappers
The M5 screw that held in the filiment idler baring on my ponoko reprap had too big of a head, and even if I made the clamp very tight, the idler still wouldn't press on the filiment.
The solution was to file down the edge of the M5 screw head a millimeter or two.
Stronger springs will not help you if the screw doesn't let the baring go far enough.
by
dbenoy
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Reprappers
If you're trading for money and such then the reprap marketplace forum or ebay would be best, but I believe John and I are thinking that it would be nice to have a tracking system for people to be able to search for the closest person willing to give some away for free (With the understanding that you'll give at least 2 away for free in return) and tracking those contributions.
Might be nice to
by
dbenoy
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Reprappers
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