Quotedc42 You are running the heater at half power. To get full power with 110V supply, connect red and yellow together, and connect one wire to red+yellow and the other to blue. But you may find half power sufficient. Thank you dc24 I wasn't entirely sure if the missing half of 53 olms meant the wiring of this board was analogous to the one that came with my di3 or if I forgot to double somethby smithhear360 - General
Update I went red+blue the bed heated up and I didn't dieby smithhear360 - General
Ok just running my math by you guys before i run the wall pixies into my heater. I used a multi meter to measure the resistance across all the leads btw its a 450W heater blue, yellow =53.3 olms blue, red = 53.3 olms yellow, red = 106.4 olms If im calculating P=IV 450 = I* 110 i = 4.09 450 =I * 220 i = 2.045 R = V/I 110/4.09 R = 26.89 R=V/I 220 / 2.04 R= 106.4 So i caby smithhear360 - General
Thank you for saving me from making a mess.by smithhear360 - General
Hi all, I am about to set up my A/C silicone heating mat with an SSR, but have been thrown a curve ball with the wiring colors (Red, Yellow, Blue?). Its a generic heating pad, and other than it being labeled for 110/220v and its wattage I can't find a manual to tell me which of these wires are ground ( I purchased it about a year ago and got rid of all the receipts so my wife/accountant wouldn'tby smithhear360 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Usually absolute length of frame pieces isn't critical, but matching lengths is - that's how you get square assemblies (that and square milling of the ends). If the mill has a long enough work table, you put a stop on it and use that to mill pieces to matched lengths. I set up stops on a bridgeport mill to finish t-slot pieces and get them to matched lengths easily withby smithhear360 - General
Quote691175002 I always recommend taking a look at the g0704 mill because it is so popular. It sits at at price/performance sweet spot, and there is a ton of support for it. The mill you linked will also be fine. I wouldn't go as small as a micromill since you will want to use endmills long enough to clean up 4040 without flipping it over. The main drawback of machining is that accessories (cuby smithhear360 - General
Hi all. I have come to seek your collective wisdom prior to buying a manual milling machine for the purpose of precisely cutting 2020, 4040 extruded aluminum profiles and possibly some small milling of brackets/ peripherals for 3d printers and CNC building, or making precise cuts on soft metals that are not possible with a bandsaw. Over the past year I have struggled with ordering extruded alumiby smithhear360 - General
Thanks for the advice. I will shop around.by smithhear360 - General
HI all. I just wanted to see if any of you fellow reprappers have any experience buying stepper motors from Mcmaster-carr, and if the quality of the motor justifies the price? In my current core xy build I planned on reusing the stepper motors from my wanhao i3 which are: 42HS34(L)-0954-JA05 (0.95 amps), and 42HS34(L)-1204-JA05 (1.2 amps). I planned on using the 0.95 amp motors as the xyby smithhear360 - General
After experiencing a gantry that moves on the (x,y) I am definitely going to buckle down and learn to perfect a core (x,y) with two stationary motors. I really didn't think the headache would be worth it but the simplicity of not dealing with a moving bed cannot be understated.by smithhear360 - Mechanics
Alright the printer is not pretty or well thought out, but it works.. I have ordered a total of four 4040 by 1 meter aluminum extrusions, a 12x12inch mic6 aluminum plate(build plate), as well as thicker right angle aluminum for version 2. Here is the printer. I will apply all I have learned from my errors in this build and take into account space for enclosing the printer as well as a locationby smithhear360 - Mechanics
Thanks for the advice DD. Having read your instructables multiple times, I will just take your word as law and mount the x motor on the y carriage. No worries about getting ripped off on the rails. I bought them a 6 months ago for this project and they slide fine.by smithhear360 - Mechanics
Hi all. I am about to build my first 3d printer, and have decided on building a printer with a bed that only moves on the z-axis and the print head that moves on the x-y. I am avoiding the i3 mechanics due to the double lead screw motor sync issue and the moving bed on the y axis. I am noticing many makers are using of the core x-y "etch a sketch" style movement, and then came across a video on yby smithhear360 - Mechanics