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Ugh it's hard to explain stuff in a non native language, OK let's try again:
My problem is that when I start up the machine un homed (meaning with one or more axis-es not on the home switches), what happens is that I can move the un homed axis only to the positive side (so +10 for example) not the negative (-10 for example).
Now if in *this* state I press home for that axis the motor is enable
by
TinHead
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Repetier
Homing works on all axes except the case of starting up un homed.
My new Z optical switch works better than the mechanical one as expected.
My setup is:
//// Endstop Settings
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS 1 // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors
// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and gr
by
TinHead
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Repetier
OK feedback:
1. I understand your point I'll try that
2. I have added your patch to initialize at start but still I get the exact same behavior. I do not have software MIN limits enabled, and they were not enabled before. The weird part is that I have seen no one else complaining, is homing really unused? I mean at least for Z anyone should employ homing ...
3. I have made the optical switch
by
TinHead
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Repetier
Well I have the E steps setup as good I could measure but I still get too wide width with the auto detection. So for 0.2 mm layers I get about 0.6 mm width when I should get 0.4 according to Sound's calibration guide here:
I followed the above until I got the "correct" width
BTW: the Tantillus looks outstanding !
by
TinHead
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Printing
Finally found time and printed it!
I used slic3r with the settings in the attached settings.jpg file.
The interface might look a little different because it is from Repetier host.
by
TinHead
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Printing
Ah good, thanks for looking into it.
About point 3, I thought as much, I think I'll have to build an optical switch for Z it should be much more precise.
by
TinHead
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Repetier
Oh I'm not really an expert I'm only very stubborn
It looks fine sliced with slic3r 0.60, I'll try printing it tonight to see how it comes out on my printer.
by
TinHead
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Printing
Hi,
I've been struggling on getting real small gears to print for some time, below is a little howto I have put together:
YMMV as I have a 0.35 mm nozzle and no heated bed, but you might get closer to something useful.
Good luck.
by
TinHead
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Printing
Hi,
I noticed that in the latest release of the host the "Go to dispose area after job/job kill" option in the Printer Setting menu does not apply consistently anymore.
So a lot of time it happens the after a print is finished the head is left on top the part and I have to home by pressing the manual controls.
Sometime it works but that happens rarely :/ This is true also if after the print i
by
TinHead
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Repetier
That's a Microchip PIC based board ... the Repetier firmware is written for Atmel chips, it won't work without proper porting, even though the Chipkit guys did a lot of work to allow their board to run Arduino code.
by
TinHead
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Repetier
At this size you get only the outlines from Slic3r with the automatic width calculation which gives about 0.4 mm. I have experimented with setting the Extrusion width ratio to 2 to get 0.2 mm width but that did not lead to anything, I think that regardless of that it was still wider (it is real hard to get a good measurement).
I need to fix my bed as I have trouble keeping it flat, maybe find a
by
TinHead
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Printing
I use the fan on pin 4 since I don't have a heated printed bed, and it works flawlessly with hardware pwm.
I also want to report that the firmware reacts a lot better now on changing the fan speed.
by
TinHead
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Repetier
Oops I knew I forgot to mention something. I'm using a 0.35 mm J-nozzle.
by
TinHead
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Printing
Yup reflashing fixed it definitely I printed the same gcode twice after with different layer heights with no problems.
by
TinHead
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Repetier
Also check the retraction settings, I had issues on my setup with retraction speeds over 10mm/s, I was loosing steps.
by
TinHead
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Printing
Hi all,
The reason I have built my Prusa (and dumped my previous CNC for) was to use it to print parts which would be otherwise pretty hard to manufacture.
As my hobby is (well currently) building robots, and I don't like buying parts, one major need is to be able to manufacture gears, small gears, so I can make use of DC motors scavenged from old IT equipment (think old CD-ROM drives for inst
by
TinHead
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Printing
It happened during print, I was only watching it printing.
After it happened I killed the job to stop it. I have reset the board, I have disconnected power.
After I powered it up again, I could move the axis-es without issues, I could extrude with a speed up to about 800 mm/min if I would hit the extrude button in the host. At this speed it sometimes lost steps. Before this happened (and afte
by
TinHead
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Repetier
Hi,
DISCLAIMER: I'm posting this only to share my experience and get some pointers on how this could have happened, not to report a bug.
I suddenly had my extruder motor going crazy half trough printing this thing:
The symptoms were really weird the extruder stepper motor was skipping steps and vibrating at all attempts to extrude when printing, but when I was extruding manually from the manua
by
TinHead
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Repetier
Well my problem was not the hotend as it turns out, I'll be checking the update this weekend.
by
TinHead
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Repetier
I had this happening all of the sudden mid print, after several prints with no problems. The extruder motor was going forward a bit then started skipping and even jumped backwards sometimes. I first thought the extruder driver decided to quit so I replaced it ... to no avail.
Next was logically the hotend itself, I took it apart and cleaned it as thorough as I could, it's a 0.35 mm j-head. I di
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TinHead
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Printing
Hi,
Thanks for looking into it, I'll check as soon as I have my machine back online, I had a major hotend failure.
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TinHead
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Repetier
OK I will try and let you know how it went.
by
TinHead
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Repetier
1. True you want the adjust the speed, but if it's off it should stay off. Like when you prepare for a print, you set the speed to 50 percent for example but you leave it off, you start printing and after 2 -3 layers you turn it on or maybe only when needed. I realize that turning on and off should be done by the gcode ... unfortunately Slic3r does not support it yet and skeinforge ... well I on
by
TinHead
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Repetier
Hi,
I lust added 80 mm fans on my machine controlled from a PWM output (pin 4 on gen7 style atmega644).
I'm able to control them just fine but I have noticed two issues with the host (latest version):
1. The fan is turned on as soon as the slider is moved - I think it would be better to keep it off if it was off when adjusting the slider, and only turn it on if you press the "Fan On" button
2
by
TinHead
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Repetier
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