Quotedroftarts Hmm... sounds like missed steps to me. Did you play with the acceleration or max axis speeds? Ian RepRapPro tech support Yes I did. The command you suggested was this: QuoteMaximum feedrates (mm/s): M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z5.00 E45.00 But when I tried that, the printer wouldn't run setbed. I looked at the firmware source and found this: Quote case 203: // Set maximum feedratby dc42 - Ormerod
I think I found the immediate cause of the problem. The Z axis is not going up the correct distance between layers. The Ethernet interface said it was at 5.75mm but it was nothing like as high as that, more like 2mm. Now I just need to find out why that was.by dc42 - Ormerod
Ever since I started printing, I've notice that the extruder sometimes stutters. It's now got a lot worse. On the piece I'm now printing, it's got a lot worse. Nearly half the time when it is printing, the extruder is not rotating, it's stuttering. The head still appears to be extruding even while this is happening. It's as if the firmware is trying to feed filament to the head much faster than iby dc42 - Ormerod
Yes thanks, the new x-rib and x-plate fitted fine. The remaining mechanical problem I had was that the x-runner bearing couldn't be moved far enough in the slot to prevent the print head sagging, but I solved that by substituting a 623ZZ 10mm bearing for the 9mm one. Did you by any chance design this originally for a 10mm bearing, and substitute the 9mm bearing after you had problems on one of thby dc42 - Ormerod
Hi Greg, From my experience, here are some issues that may affect you: - first 220 boards need to get 5V power from USB due to a manufacturing fault - once you connect via Pronterface, it appears that you can no longer connect via Ethernet without powering down or resetting - if you are using the SD card supplied with the kit, it may not process the config.g file and therefore your IP address sby dc42 - Ormerod
Hi Ian, I no longer need a replacement Duet board because I've repaired the existing one. I can connect using the network and ATX power only, or with USB. I would still like a new electronics box front plate (because I drilled out all the holes to 4mm before I realised that the top 2 were supposed to self-tap - the instructions didn't say this at the time), and a couple of 3-way header shells (by dc42 - Ormerod
Yes, the LM1117 doesn't look like a good choice of regulator, because of its high dropout voltage. Even at lower currents, the dropout voltage is still 1V. The best drop-in replacement I found (i.e. same pin configuration and at least 500mA rating) was the Microchip TC2117-3.3VDBTR.by dc42 - Ormerod
Sounds like I should turn on the bed heater and let it come to temperature in setbed.g, between homing the axes and running the auto bed levelling procedure.by dc42 - Ormerod
I'm printing from SD card, because others on this forum have said that the print quality from USB is not as good. Every time I want to do a new print, I have to power the Ormerod down, take out the SD card, put it in the adapter, plug it into the computer, copy the file across, unplug the adapter, take out the SD card, put it back in the Ormerod, power it up, re-establish the Ethernet connectionby dc42 - Ormerod
What is the power quality like in your area? One potential problem with the standard arrangement (deriving the +5V supply from the 12V supply) is that if there is a power brownout, and the bed heater is on at the time, the 12V supply will drop very quickly, and the 5V and 3.3V supplies shortly after. I added an extra capacitor on my board to hold the +12V input to the regulator up for a little loby dc42 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts It looks like M201 and M203 are implemented, so you can change those on the fly, but not M205 (lines 1510 to 1535 ): Thanks, I'll try adding those commands. Looks like the default max extruder feed fate set in the firmware is only 16mm/sec,by dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteRory166 Not a "disaster darling" its a work of art. Call it "My Vision of Chaos" and enter it into next years Turner prize, should be a shoe in, don't forget I'm due a drink when you win the 25k prize. QuoteRory166 I have now completed a prototype deflector had intended to use aluminium but some clear plastic was the first thing that came to hand. At least you can see what it is, easierby dc42 - Ormerod
I did a print at 200C (first layer 205C) with retraction = 5mm @ 45mm/s and this is how it turned out: That's the best yet. The extra retraction distance and speed appear to have solved the stringing problem, I just have a few small lumps and two detached threads. I then did another print with the temperature reduced to 195C and this is what happened: Another Turner Prize entry. The head hby dc42 - Ormerod
I find that I can connect fairly reliably via the web interface, provided I don't also have a USB connection (and I can connect sometimes even then). I've had prints stop twice. Once, it happened right at or near the end of a print, and I suspect either a power brownout or a firmware problem. The other time, it turned out that I had forgotten to re-tighten the terminal block screws after disconnby dc42 - Ormerod
I found this supplier. The "Swiss clips" look ideal to me. It might even be possible to redesign the heated bed PCB with holes for them to lock into (if that doesn't make removal too difficult).by dc42 - Ormerod
Thanks! The retraction rate is set to 30mm/sec at present, so I'll try increasing it to 45. Also I read this in the slic3r manual: QuoteLength - The number of millimeters to retract. Note that the measurement is taken from the raw filament entering the extruder. A value of between 1 and 2mm is usually recommended. Bowden extruders may need up to 4 or 5mm due to the hysteresis introduced by the tby dc42 - Ormerod
Ian, thanks again. The slic3r manual section on Fighting Ooze looks especially interesting. What is the maximum extruder feed/retraction rate supported by Ormerod?by dc42 - Ormerod
I find that although the temperature you enter in one box is copied to the other box, it doesn't change the set point for that temperature. But it's confusing, and I hope this will get sorted out in a firmware revision soon. btw I also couldn't get the "Send GCODE" function to work.by dc42 - Ormerod
Thanks, Ian! Sounds like I had better stick to mdf or hardboard for the tabs then.by dc42 - Ormerod
Thanks, Rory. I tried 190C and it was a disaster: Trying 210C now.by dc42 - Ormerod
I would like the manufacturer and/or Farnell part # for the 3-way header socket connector shell, so that I can replace the 2-way ones supplied with early kits for the hot end fan and y-axis endstop looms.by dc42 - Ormerod
I've done a few prints now but there is a consistent problem. When the print head moves (without extruding) between different areas of the print, PLA is sometimes still coming out of the extruder head. As a result it leaves lumps on the piece of work it is leaving, and fine threads connecting different parts of the print. This piece shows the problem, although there were originally many more filaby dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteRory166 Superb pictures, what sort of camera do you use? Galaxy S4 smartphone camera. It's a bit temperamental when trying to focus at short distances, otherwise OK. QuoteRory166 I suspect the MDF pieces go the other way up than shown in picture with cardboard. No, they go that way up. Like I said, the glass+alu+pcb+mdf is a bit thicker than the clips are intended for, but it did fit - seby dc42 - Ormerod
Rory, If I change the driver transistor for one with a higher Rds(on), then that Rds(on) will limit the rate at which the driver mosfet sucks charge out of the gate of the power mosfet to turn it off, and thereby slow down the turn-off. However, I now think it would be possible to cut the power mosfet gate leg and solder a 0603 resistor between the leg and the pad. By my calculations, a 100 ohmby dc42 - Ormerod
Reaper, thanks very much, that fixed it for me.by dc42 - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Hi Radian, I've been thinking about your suggestion of a snubber network, and I think a diode-capacitor-resistor snubber could work well. I've connected a flyback diode in parallel with my bed heater (see this post). The flyback diode stops the mosfet avalanching (which wasn't really a problem anyway), however it does nothing to avoid the transient on the 12V supply due to sudden cutoff of the 1by dc42 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts @dc42: Is it just me, or does everyone else get "Image error, Running getimagesize() on the image data failed" on your pictures? They don't work in Firefox, Safari or Chrome on Mac... Ian RepRapPro tech support Hi Ian, I've solved the image error problem by only using links to my Dropbox public folder, and I've updated all the relevant posts that had this problem.by dc42 - Ormerod
I just checked the Duet branch of RepRapFirmware and found it was updated yesterday. I see the following changes: - 5ms start-up delay added - Support for commands M98 (call subprogram) and M99 (return from subprogram) added. So nothing very significant for most of us, except that the start-up delay should help those who are using the original SD cards.by dc42 - Ormerod
I would add to Ian's comments that I've only had printing stop unexpectedly once, and the mains power where I am has been a little flaky during the high winds over the past few days. Ideally I'd get a UPS, but that is beyond my budget right now. Hence one of my mods is aimed at improving tolerance of brownouts. The 3.3V supply on my board appears to be stable when the bed heater turns on/off, soby dc42 - Ormerod
1. I've just checked the 3.3V supply with a DMM across pins 2 & 3. It reads 3.28V whether the bed heater is on or off. So I think the apparent drop in the 3.3V supply on the scope when the bed heater goes off is caused by the fact that ATX supplies have the 0V line connected to mains ground. which unfortunately means you get a ground loop when you connect a scope earth lead as well. 2. Radiaby dc42 - Ormerod