Hey Michele, Have you turned off retraction and tested that the filament if feeding through at the rate you expect? (i.e. if you tell it to extrude 20mm, you've measured that it is sending 20mm through?) If that's already set up my guess would be an issue with your extruder acceleration settings or E-jerk value. I'm not familiar with teh Teacup firmaware though.by coffee - General Mendel Topics
Hey Charlie, If you disconnect the ends stops from the board can you get the motors to move anything? BTW, make sure to remove all power (including usb power) from the sanguinololu before plugging/unplugging any connections, otherwise you could damage the board or chip.by coffee - General Mendel Topics
Don't know anything about the seller, but it's not a bad price. The motors will typically run around $15 each so that's $75 (plus shipping) there. And you can get a sanguinololu with stepper drivers for around $100 - $120 on amazon. Not sure if links are allowed so just search for "sanguinololu assembled reprap".by coffee - General Mendel Topics
You might also to make sure there's no binding in your x and y axes. With your motors off, slide the x-carraige (and then the bed) back and forth the full length, it should feel smooth with the same resistance along the entire path. I had a problem on my first printer where the bed would get tight and bind at the outer extremes, turned out is was improperly aligned bearings.by coffee - General Mendel Topics
I've tried a few different PLA sources and definately had more problems with the "cheap" stuff. I normally print at 185 - 195C but have gone up to 210C for the cheap filament. I wouldn't think 185C would be too hot to cause a problem with your hotend but what hotend do you have? The cheap PLA could have air bubbles or other debris in it, or it could be inconsistent diameter which can cause jammiby coffee - General Mendel Topics