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I get the same but it doesn't seem to affect functionality at all. Hasn't been very high on my priority list to investigate since it's not really causing any pain.
by
Pointedstick
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
You have run into a software bug in Replicatorg. I have fixed this in trunk, and my fix should make it into the next released version. In the meantime, another, more immediately available fix is to substitute your RepRap.xml file with one one found in here:
Basically, you need to get rid of the "stepper_axis" variable in the toolhead definition for your machine.
Also, I assume you had to chang
by
Pointedstick
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Yes, they can. This is a goal of mine too, and it's reachable with layers that are 0.08 mm thick and lower. Take a look at some high-detail Ultimaker prints; most well-built and -maintained RepRaps are perfectly capable of the same quality with good enough gcode to drive the machine. The challenge is getting models that have enough detail to take advantage of that resolution. 3D scanners able to
by
Pointedstick
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General
I have some of that lovely silver Ultimachine PLA, but I've found myself hankering for something in a more flat gray. Anyone know of a vendor that carries any?
by
Pointedstick
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General
Homing only makes sense at the beginning of the print, so the machine can figure out its position. I home using commands in start.gcode, but in principle I think putting them in homing.gmc and enabling that would have the same effect.
by
Pointedstick
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General
Traumflug Wrote:
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> It's a software problem.
>
> Really? Teacup turns X, Y and E either all on or
> all off. Slightly different handling for Z, which
> is enabled when moved, only. So, PC software isn't
> involved here.
>
> To me this sounds like a misconfigured
> E_ENABLE_PIN or E_INVERT_ENABLE. Also: updating to
by
Pointedstick
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
In the end, I just started using Slic3r and it made everything better. I've now printed with 0.08mm layer heights.
by
Pointedstick
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General
bassman Wrote:
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> I am building a Prusa Mendel with Arduino Mega
> 1280 (clone), RAMPS 1.2, teacup firmware and, at
> the moment ReplicatorG software as this is the
> only one I seem to be able to get working reliably
> on my Macbook Pro OSX 10.6. Teacup is built with
> standard RAMPS 1.2 config file.
>
> The X, Y, a
by
Pointedstick
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Well, that helped a lot. Thanks!
by
Pointedstick
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General
brnrd Wrote:
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> You should try Marlin instead of Sprinter on
> RAMPS. The look ahead feature deals with short
> segments much better than Skeinforge and the
> configuration.h file is almost identical to
> Sprinter. You can get it from github.
+1
by
Pointedstick
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General
I'm having a problem with infill when I try to dial down my layer height. I generally run with 0.3mm layers at 130 mm/sec infill, 54mm/sec perimeters and achieve good results. Firmware is Marlin, and gcode generator is Skeinforge-40. Now I'm trying to go down to 0.2 mm layer height, but my infill is getting really sparse. Here's an example:
Adjusting the infill width over thickness ratio doesn
by
Pointedstick
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General
This is such a silly argument. Let's all get back to the business of inventing the future.
by
Pointedstick
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General
Hello to you too.
While there are parts of what you say that I agree with, it's not clear what the purpose of this post was. Even if the self-replication goal doesn't impress you, it's still a darn cool DIY 3D printer community we've got going here. Why not focus on the positive?
by
Pointedstick
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General
nophead Wrote:
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> I've always had trouble getting Skeinforge to
> behave properly with layers smaller than 0.15mm.
>
> What does it get wrong?
Everything becomes much more fiddly at that low layer height. In particular, getting the extruded filament wide enough at a speed I find acceptable has been a challenge. It always ends u
by
Pointedstick
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General
kyleeamonahern Wrote:
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> If anyone has figured out this hack for the
> reprap, I would love for you to post it.
>
This is a standard Skeinforge feature; just reduce the infill ratio to below 1. Most of us run with Line infill at about 0.2 to 0.35 solidity ratio.
by
Pointedstick
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General
The big thing is that the Ultimaker folks who are pushing the limits of print quality are using Netfabb to generate geode rather than Skeinforge, and it's much more advanced. I've always had trouble getting Skeinforge to behave properly with layers smaller than 0.15mm. I see no reason why Netfabb couldn't generate geode for a Prusa that would result in prints as good or nearly as good. In fact, I
by
Pointedstick
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General
Yes, you do have to increase the WoT ratios for perimeter and infill, especially if you print quickly. I also found lowering the nozzle a tad using the Altitude setting in the Bottom plugin helped in certain cases too.
by
Pointedstick
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
kyleeamonahern Wrote:
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> o so there is no way to get around paying for all
> the electronics, i was hoping that i would be able
> to salvage everything from some old commodity and
> only have to pay for the printed parts, what a
> bummer
You'd have to buy stuff anyway, unless you have old appliances that you can salvage five
by
Pointedstick
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General
Decreasing the layer height is how they (we) print it. A small layer height makes overhangs easier since each layer doesn't have to jut out as far. The smallest I've gone is 0.15mm/layer but I just bought Netfabb and I hope to go even lower tonight or tomorrow.
by
Pointedstick
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
The steps_per_mm setting is in firmware. I don't think the values you can for those set in rewrap.xml are evaluated.
by
Pointedstick
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General
I use Marlin, and it's been said by others, but this blobbing is really not a problem. I liked your test, so I modified it to make the walls taller so you can really see the effect, or lack of it. Here's my print, made with Marlin at 54 mm/sec (the speed I print perimeters for all my things nowadays with Marlin):
The only circle that shows any blobbing at all is the middle one. And I can tell
by
Pointedstick
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Not really. It's currently at:
Clip over perimeter width = 0.5
Maximum connection distance over perimeter width = 10.0
by
Pointedstick
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General
I've been using the Loops > Perimeter > In fill setting, and I increased my firmware's Z axis maximum speed from 180 mm/min to 900 mm/min, and there hasn't been any appreciable improvement. Here's an example. The print on the left was printed with firmware (Marlin) limited to 180 mm/min for Z; the print on the right has it at 900 mm/min.
I didn't notice a great deal of difference in the
by
Pointedstick
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General
Pretty simple here:
M109 S195 ;Set extruder temperature and wait until it actually reaches it
G92 E0 ;Reset extruder
G1 E30 F300 ;Prime extruder 30mm
G92 E0 ;Reset extruder
G28 X0 ;Home X Axis
G28 Y0 ;Home Y Axis
G28 Z0 ;Home Z Axis
Your M106 command intrigues me; what do you have your fan connected to that lets you control it with gcode?
by
Pointedstick
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General
As you can see, this is a diverse community with lots of opinions! I'm a big fan of PLA, others not so much. In the end, you'll suffer from analysis paralysis if you try to learn everything before you start, so the best thing to do is dive in and ask for lots of help along the way. LM8UU bearings for all axes and ensuring a level build surface are pretty uncontroversial. Manufactured pulleys and
by
Pointedstick
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General
1. Not asking the community before purchasing something you've never bought before when you're a first-time builder.
2. Assembling everything before learning about improved parts that require disassembling stuff to fit them. For example, you probably want all of these:
2a.
2b.
2c.
2d.
2e.
2f.
2. Getting gouged on shipping when buying from multiple international sellers. Try to buy as much a
by
Pointedstick
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General
So… this is a bit embarrassing. It wasn't a hardware problem! …It also wasn't a firmware problem. The culprit turned out to be that I had made the model too large, so at a certain point, the extruder needed to print outside the printable area and stopped moving. But it thought it had moved that distance, so as a result, its internal sense of where it was got skewed. With each layer that it tried
by
Pointedstick
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
mrkaras Wrote:
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> now I'm just trying to make the filiment stick to the bed.
Sounds like your nozzle is too far from the build surface.
by
Pointedstick
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General
Sublime Wrote:
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> Are you using the latest commit? Someone else I
> know was using Marlin and had the same issue but
> it was fixed in the last release Oct 18.
Yes, I am.
by
Pointedstick
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future