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Temperature can dull it with ABS too. Lower yours a little bit and see what happens.
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Pointedstick
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General
Thanks a ton!
by
Pointedstick
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General
I bought five NEMA 17 motors from Thingfarm and how it's time to hook them up. Problem is, I'm having a hard time correlating what the motor's wiring diagram says with what's printed on my Sanguinololu board. Each 1x4 bank of pins is marked with "1B 1A 2A 2B":
…but on the motor's wiring diagram (found here), the wires correspond to A, C, B, and D:
Anyone know what gets hooked up to where?
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Pointedstick
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I think your problem is presentation. I opened this page and got hit with a gigantic intimidating wall of text. There are ten paragraphs there! If the first post were a bit more concise and readable, you'd probably get more attention.
by
Pointedstick
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Well what do you want us to do about it? Honestly, I'd never even heard of this product before reading the thread you linked to, and I have to say the one who comes off poorly is you, not them. If it's true that you were banned from their forum, it's probably because you were rude and obnoxious to the seller's daughter. Badgering a merchant's family isn't generally the way I would recommend tryin
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Pointedstick
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I dunno, it looks to me like they're just late and slow. It's an Indiegogo project run by what seems to be two people, what did you expect? I'm sure you'll get your printer eventually.
by
Pointedstick
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I wonder if your teeth aren't sharp enough. They look a bit dull. To remove the bolt from the equation, try feeding some filament by hand. Remove the idler, heat up the hot end, lift the extruder far from the build platform, and try to push some filament slowly into the hole and down through the nozzle. You should be able to do it without much pressure. If that doesn't work, you may have a clogge
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Pointedstick
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I know Makergear makes reputable extruders, but it might be worth it to do some more triage before throwing the baby out with the bathwater. This latest time it's jammed, were there any filament shavings stuck between the teeth? The problem is that once the filament becomes stripped, the teeth become clogged which makes it more likely to strip filament in the future. You should narrow the problem
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Pointedstick
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Yeah, I have a Makerbot as well, but this doesn't seem to be the way things are hooked up in the Reprap world. Generally it looks like the stepper drivers get power from the board rather than directly from the PSU. Any particular reason? Is the MBI approach better?
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Pointedstick
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I was thinking… the Sanguinololu is so nice and tiny, it seems like a real shame to hook it up to a big honkin' computer PSU that'll be half the size of the printer itself. I've been thinking about alternatives. A PicoPSU is an idea, but it's really meant for computers and it'll have the big motherboard connector as well as SATA and Molex connectors that I don't need. Really, I just want somethin
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Pointedstick
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I was in a similar boat. I have a Makerbot TOM and I used it to print all the parts for a Prusa, mostly in PLA with a few ABS parts near the extruder. I went with Thingfarm's Prusa kit and motors, some LM8UU bearings from a Chinese company selling stuff on eBay, a Sanguinololu kit straight from JoeM, and a hot end from makergear. No heated bed so far. Total cost: $464.
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Pointedstick
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Reprappers
Interesting. Might want to post it to Thingiverse.
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Pointedstick
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PLA is also generally cheaper. I started out printing in ABS but recently made the move to PLA and I couldn't be happier. ABS is so fiddly! Preventing it from curling or warping is an endless exercise in frustration. I also like PLA's more rigid feel as well, although there are sometimes when a part with some flex to it is called for. Finally, crazy bridges are possible when you print with PLA an
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Pointedstick
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Honestly, I would recommend a kit like a makerbot Thing-O-Matic or a Makergear Mosaic for your first printer if output is your primary goal at this point. And if you're set in the money department, go for an Ultimaker for sure. I say this not to bash the RepRap project (I have a Prusa myself) but because if your goal is good prints at a reasonable speed, you're going to get frustrated with a RepR
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Pointedstick
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I was planning on using Replicatorg+Skeinforge, but if there's a better option I'm all ears. What do you like about Sprinter? Why'd you choose it over one of the zillions of other firmwares?
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Pointedstick
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I've read through a few threads about Teacup and Sprinter, but most of it has been extremely technical and nothing has really answered my question. I'm building a Prusa Mendel and I have a sanguinololu 1.3a. What would people recommend for firmware, and why?
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Pointedstick
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brnrd Wrote:
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> Note that you can still buy 5 lbs spools of ABS
> feed for $40. Note that at this time, you can only
> print once color at a time unless you slice
> different colored filaments together or use
> multiple extruders.
5 lbs for $40; where? That sounds awesome!
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Pointedstick
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As a 40K player myself, I think I can answer this A great deal of detail can be added to the model, but there will be stratification. The amount depends on your layer height. A layer height of 0.3 mm will show fairly obvious layers, while 0.10 mm or so will be harder to discern. If you're planning to make contoured hills and other natural features, you could print at a lower resolution and just
by
Pointedstick
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General
Was that the problem; the ref pot set too high causing the motor to overheat?
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Pointedstick
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ABS warps and cracks a ton more than PLA does, even with a heated build platform (it's nearly unusable without one). If you print large objects or do print jobs that take hours, you will struggle to prevent the corners of your ABS prints from curling and individual layers from pulling away from themselves causing cracking. If extreme heat on the printed part isn't an issue, I'd go with PLA 100% o
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Pointedstick
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General