Since the plastic won't have to be especially strong and precision not top notch (I am assuming that the casted part will be machined) Why not print several plastic parts and mount together? Just a thought...by fotomas - Ormerod
I wanted to keep things as simple as possible, so I stayed away from gears as long as possible. I have played with the idea of a worm gear on the stepper motor for a compact solution. Using the original gears would definitely be possible too. Hmm ideas are starting to grow... Since there is interest in making one I will post it on thingiverse later (asap) Will post link here.by fotomas - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Nice design! You can increase the torque by using a longer stepper motor. Be sure to get one with a rated current that the Duet can drive. That thought has crossed my mind but since I wanted this design to be a simple switch from the original extruder without any expensive parts required. I already had the bolts, bearings and filament so cost me about 13£ for a pulley, belt and postaby fotomas - Ormerod
So far have seen a few benefits, but nothing major. - The need of a hobbed insert (there were discussions about getting hold of the correct type of hobbed insert after reprappro closed down) - No markings in the filament of a hobbed insert (if that counts as a benefit) - Silent, it almost makes no sound at all. I bought the belt like that, it is tensioned as hars as the other belts on the printby fotomas - Ormerod
I few weeks back I read a post about a belt driven extruder: I thought the design looked a bit too complicated so I quickly threw together a simple draft in a CAD program. (pics in the post linked above) But the idea stuck with me. So I started designing a real extruder based on my idea. (further down the line I have found designs based on the same concept but with some major differences) Itby fotomas - Ormerod
QuoteJoar107 Filament out would be great but even better would be a rotatable sensor that could feel if the extruded length was correct. Or filament slipping...by fotomas - Ormerod
I have now made some tests and solved it. I got the same amount of filament extruded with different values: This config gives me 38 mm extruded: M92 E200:200 As does this: M92 E97:97 So I tested M92 E97:97:97 Finally it worked! I assume it has to do with my tool definition: M563 P1 D2 H2 Drive 2 as in: D0 D1 D2 M92 E97: 97 : 97 I can live with that. But how could my dualby fotomas - Ormerod
New calculation: (360 / 1.8) x 16 / (11 × 3.14) = 3200 / 34.5 = 97.5 Is that correct? For tool TX M563 P0 D0 H1 G10 P1 S0 R0 M563 P1 D2 H2 G10 P2 S0 R0 ; ;M92 E420:420 ; org extruder ratio M92 E420:97.5 ; beltextruder ratioby fotomas - Ormerod
Good tip but I want ready made cable. IEC C7 and IEC C14 connectors (as far as I know) are not avaliable separately to make your own cable. And if they were they would be too bulky.by fotomas - Experimental and Hobby
I have hopefully made some error in my calculations. The pulley driving the belt is approximately 11 mm in diameter. That gives a circumference of 34.5 mm. The filament will feed with same speed as the belt. 1.8 degees per step on my original Nema 17 stepper motor. 360 degrees divided by 1.8 gives 200. (360 / 1.8) / (11 × 3.14) = 200 / 34.5 = 5.5 5.5 steps / mm filament. I have .5 mm nozzby fotomas - Ormerod
I have been googling a lot, chating with support on cable reseller sites, with no luck. I mean my falttening iron has a pretty descent cable, my extensioncord in the garage is much easier to handle than those supplied with my 3D printer, PC, Laptop etc... Is there no such thing as powercords of higher grade plastic/rubber and a lot of bendy bendy copper filaments?by fotomas - Experimental and Hobby
I am designing and prototyping a belt driven extruder and before printing with it I need to calibrate the extrution. It looks like the firmware has some kind of limitation of how low value can be set for the M92 command. Or... there is something else wrong. I started out by calculating the correct factor steps/mm extrution but the new value only got me half the way. After trial and error it seemby fotomas - Ormerod
I use dc42 dual nozzle sensor board. I use this for cooling: With two modifications That I made my self: Tighter fit to the ormerod: And a duck-like duct: I use a bladeserver 5v fan that runs on the 12v fan ot connection on Duet 0.6. I set it at 15-20% (set in slic3r). Cools very, very well.by fotomas - Ormerod
Sorry my bad then. I do not have that deep knowledge in the area. You could have been a bit clearer in your question thou; "what specific variant of the M4 processor are you going to use?"by fotomas - Duet
Quoteambrop7 Hey dc42, Can you say anything more about which processor will be used? Read his first post more carefully, it is in there...by fotomas - Duet
Specs has been listed but for someone like me with limited hardware and electronic engineering knowledge what are benefits/advantages for the end user? Maybe it is far too early but the immediate question that arises for me is if would this be an upgrade for a 0.6 or 0.85? Or is it more of a natural evolvment aimed at new users? Any how it is lovely to see things are moving forward.by fotomas - Duet
QuoteDarathy I have a question ,where do i set so i can go lower then Z=0? like z-0.5? I think it is something like this: M208 Z-0.5 S1; This turns of all limitations in all directions: M564 S0by fotomas - Ormerod
Here is my take on this: I think that this concept can be realized with a much simpler design. It is all theories but may be worth a try. The magenta cylinder is a spring applying pressure to the lever that in its turn keeps the belt under tension. Possible downsides to this whole design is that the filament is bent at the same radius as the large wheel. That may break the filament over time, wby fotomas - Ormerod
Every time I find a thread with a picture of an Ormerod I study it with big interest. Any customizatios or nifty solutions? These pictures are often shown in relation to problem with the printer. I am pretty sure that there are a lot more printers out there that just waits to be shown off. I hope this can become a source of new ideas and inspiration. (Please insert your picture to the post noby fotomas - Ormerod
Does this release contain the experimental feature I read about somewhere. Gradually slowing down the extrution prior to a layer change? To avoid the blib that usually occurs at a layer change. Maybe I have understood it completely wrong....?by fotomas - Ormerod
It works the other way around. Setting it to 2.0 mm will tell the firmware that at the distance to the bed is 2.0 mm when the reading is 606. So going higher from the bed use the value 1.3 or 1.4. Make small adjustments going from 1.5 to 2.0 you intended to raise the head 0.5 mm that is too much, I think. And the value for a 0.5 mm rise wold be config value 1.0. So try 1.3 or 1.4.by fotomas - Ormerod
I have had that issue many times. I print on buildtak but maybe the reason to the issue is the same. The nozzle is too close to the bed. Either to thin first layer or calibrated too low. When it happens it almost always on longer straight lines. I print with a .3 mm first layer. I hope dmould's or my advise helps you solve this.by fotomas - Ormerod
Quoteorictosh Using a proximity sensor IMHO would be a bit over engineered Removing a microswitch and a cable and using an existing sensor is not what I call over engineered. Using software instead if hardware will not cause hardware failure I am more interested in a discussion around how to implement usage if the proximity sensor for homing instead of the microswitchs be or not to be. dc42:by fotomas - Ormerod
Some people are having problems with the connectors on the microswitch for homing the Y-axis. That got me thinking using the proximity sensor for the Y-axis too. By adding a small tab on the table at X0, Y0. The tab would sit high enough for the sensor to detect it without the nozzle touching the bed.And stick out almost all the way to the tab for homing the X-axis. Sittin in the corner of the bby fotomas - Ormerod
A quick answer; when you have several parts attheir right position, internally, select all of them and create a 'component'. Then they will be tied together an moved together. Will that accomplish what you want? QuoteTreito Quotefotomas Parts can be placed at exact measurements relative to each other, in free space. Like this: That is right, but what happens if you move the extrusion for examby fotomas - Ormerod
QuoteTreito The big disadvantage in my eyes is the assembling. There is no way using DesignSpark to place one part in accordance to another part. It is always freely moveable. As I want to design a complete printer soon it is not useable for me. I have to disagree with you there (if I have not misunderstood you). Parts can be placed at exact measurements relative to each other, in free space.by fotomas - Ormerod
I am compleatly sold on Design Spark Mechanical. Only down side I have found is that making rounded edges to complicated corners can cause the application to crash after a long wait. Some very useful Keyboard shortcuts that are good to know from the beginning: In 3D mode: Click flat surface you want to draw on, press, K, V, Z This will start 2D sketch mode (K) Straiten the sketch surface (V) Aby fotomas - Ormerod
Quote0x0000 I think I've worked out a solution that only requires an extra M4 nut, no modifications, and no brass unions from an overseas supplier! What an elegant solution!by fotomas - Ormerod
There are duscussions about usin pnematic fittings to hold the tube in place. Do a forum search for 'pneumatic'.by fotomas - Ormerod
My tests have been closing in on 19 mm too. I have been giving this some thought and there could be some backlash involved too. Moving to a corner of the bed and back again can not be beneficial if there is a tendency to backlash. There will be a lot of traffic cones in the end; (I tried to find a CAD drawing of the cooling block at github but I was lost when there is no obvious naming scheme oby fotomas - Ormerod